Build thread - building the Subbu DAC V3 SE

Well if it doesn't work, it's only $8 and a few days and I can come crawling back then. 😀
I like to give things a go myself. This is the simple stuff! Anyway, it works, I just need to install a fan.. :clown:
You're welcome to say "I told you so" later haha!

Thanks JP

Mark
 
Finally after the first failure my 2nd attempt at the build paid off and I got the taste of sweet music to my ears. And sweet it is.

A big thank you to Subbu and JP for initiating this build. A big thanks also to all those who built and shared their experience and made this happen.

Initial impressions:

- Wide Sound Stage
- Good detailing
- Clean, Deep and Tight base (something that was lacking in my old setup)
- Dead Center Vocals.

Definitely a big improvement over my old setup. Things will improve after burning in for sure. And yes this DAC is addictive 😀

PS: Pic is not the greatest. Didn't get time to click a fancy picture. SMD Soldering is not the best but a big improvement since my first build. I have yet to clean the board but that can wait for now 😀
 

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Better ! Still buy the right SEPC caps (that fit on the board) and push them to the PCB and solder them. Lead wires should be short. Now they are way too long. The DAC will perform even better if you do.

Clean the board with cotton tabs and isopropyl alcohol 99% 🙂
 
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JP,

Yes I plan to change to the Panasonic Specs. This is not my final build but something for testing. Cleaning and trimming yet to be done.

All caps will be pushed to the board. Upgrading C35 also in the pipeline. All wires will be changed to better quality and shorter length.

Currently using RCA not BNC for testing so I need to figure that out too.

Im keenly following the V3 modification thread so can order the upgrade parts together. But I guess upgrades depend on personal preferences and also other devices in the chain.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Take one good lamb (the Subbu V3 Dac) and many varieties of curry...

You have not a good food if the main is bad (the lamb) but some good mix with curry can definitly improve the meal and give it all its own character... eat the curry alone you have nothing. I will say about the flavor picture a better image will be: more and less spicy. But a good curry is a good curry... hard spicy or not hard spicy!

Try definitly the SEPC & Garry mods and if you can don't forgett to try C18 with the F cap (not the FP : see the amelioration thread).

Bismillah Khan is softer & fleshier in its solo dynamic attacks... with C35 F 2n5 of genuine BOM. But I don't know with your actual "blue" (not tested myself) cap which is maid for high frequencies... too many sorts of caps at Panasonics... like curry in India 🙂.
 
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I have lifted the C22 Caps but no output as yet. Hence C22 seems okay.

I have taken some readings at U1 and U2. All readings are taken at 20V DC on DMM.

L1, L2, L3, L4, L5, L6 showings correct Volts.
Also Capacitors before and after U regs are also showing correct Volts.

I can also assure that I did not burn U1 & U2 since I completed them very fast and effortless.

U1 Inputs Values at Position 4 and Position 20 looks off. Could RN1 be problem here? Position 6 at RN1 looks off as compared to other build readings which is Input in Position in 4 of U1.

Can someone please suggest how can I resolve my problem.

Thanks for all your help and Input.

Tried reflowing at C4 and Position 20 but still no luck. In fact also did reflow R2.

Any more suggestions.

Hi

From values posted in #833 I think you're in trouble with all RN1, U1, U2, R4/5/6...
I suggest you to use Flux & Desolder Braid to remove extra solder from those parts.
Don't heat them too long and before, train yourself in this view using old PC parts 😉
You'll see that you need few solder and almost the same amount of Flux to obtain a nice brighfull sodler.

I'll try to post more informations tomorrow.

Regards

Phil

I finally got some music after reflowing U1 and U2.

However, I am still facing some difficulties. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt. DAC was operational for 2 hrs then it stopped automatically. Inspite of reflowing U1 and U2, it did not came up. Next morning, when I started DAC, it works fine. Again in the evening it stopped working.

When the DAC is functional :
1. Pin 16 of ESS (ZD) shows 3.57V
2. Pin 1 of ESS shows 1.54V
3. Pin 2 of ESS shows 1.66V

When the DAC is non-functional :
1. Pin 16 of ESS (ZD) shows 0V
2. Pin 1 of ESS shows 3.27V
3. Pin 2 of ESS shows 3.28V

Any pointers where am I going wrong.

Thanks for the Inputs.
 
Darshan,

On Pin 13 of 9023, you get 1.65V if the crystal is connected properly. If it is not, then you will get 0V. I saw this during my build. I dont know if this is suppose to happen. Check if this is the case with your build too. The crystal is difficult to solder. The method I followed was what was highlighted on this thread. You tin the pads and then place the crystal and reheat it. But in my second build, I put more solder when I tinned the pads. Then the crystal sits on 4 pads as on table and you will have enough gap to get the soldering iron and heat the pad easily.

When you say it works, you do hear good music and not distorted correct?

Thanks
 
Darshan,

On Pin 13 of 9023, you get 1.65V if the crystal is connected properly. If it is not, then you will get 0V. I saw this during my build. I dont know if this is suppose to happen. Check if this is the case with your build too. The crystal is difficult to solder. The method I followed was what was highlighted on this thread. You tin the pads and then place the crystal and reheat it. But in my second build, I put more solder when I tinned the pads. Then the crystal sits on 4 pads as on table and you will have enough gap to get the soldering iron and heat the pad easily.

When you say it works, you do hear good music and not distorted correct?

Thanks

What are you using as a source. Occasionally a computer based system will loose sync with the DAC. A reboot should clear it, if that's the problem.

Hi

I get 1.64V constantly at Pin 13 irrespective i get music or not. All other values from Pin 9 to 15 are correct irrespective music comes or not.
Only Pin 16 is zero when music dont work.

When i say music its pure music. No distortion whatsoever.

I am using Sony CDP as a source.

Also tried reflowing PIn 16 but no luck.
 
"I am using Sony CDP as a source" : I think you will hear an improvement the day you try same .wave reccording from your computer via a streamer like Amareno. For me it was a huge gap between a Sony player and a SqueezeBOX player (which is known to be not as good as an asyncronous USB to SPIDF Amareno).

Good luck, see the BOB tip about soldering the crystal : the best way is to put thin solder on the crystal pads before : not too hot the solder pen : the max temp of the crystal case not to have more than 250° celsus : as your solder pen would be hotter : put it very quickly (1 seconde max)
 
"I am using Sony CDP as a source" : I think you will hear an improvement the day you try same .wave reccording from your computer via a streamer like Amareno. For me it was a huge gap between a Sony player and a SqueezeBOX player (which is known to be not as good as an asyncronous USB to SPIDF Amareno).

Good luck, see the BOB tip about soldering the crystal : the best way is to put thin solder on the crystal pads before : not too hot the solder pen : the max temp of the crystal case not to have more than 250° celsus : as your solder pen would be hotter : put it very quickly (1 seconde max)

I am skeptical if my Crystal is creating problem here.
If there would problem wid Crystal all the values of Pin 9 to 15 go haywire.

My values with pin 9 to 15 remains constant. Only 16 values goes to zero and values at pin 1, 2, 3 changes when 16 pin is zero. As soon as pin 16 values are correct i.e.3.57v values at.pin 1,2,3 also gets corrected and music works flawless.

Even today when i started my dac it ran nicely. Almost 4 hrs i played and there was no problem at all. All parts seemed cool and even no signs on transformer getting hot.
As soon as i switched it off and switched on music was gone.
This happens everytime. I switch it on next day it works flawless. As soon as i switch off and switch on immediately , it doesnt work.

Will.again check tomorrow.
 
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"I am using Sony CDP as a source" : I think you will hear an improvement the day you try same .wave reccording from your computer via a streamer like Amareno. For me it was a huge gap between a Sony player and a SqueezeBOX player (which is known to be not as good as an asyncronous USB to SPIDF Amareno).

Good luck, see the BOB tip about soldering the crystal : the best way is to put thin solder on the crystal pads before : not too hot the solder pen : the max temp of the crystal case not to have more than 250° celsus : as your solder pen would be hotter : put it very quickly (1 seconde max)

I am skeptical if my Crystal is creating problem here.
If there would problem wid Crystal all the values of Pin 9 to 15 go haywire.

My values with pin 9 to 15 remains constant. Only 16 values goes to zero and values at pin 1, 2, 3 changes when 16 pin is zero. As soon as pin 16 values are correct i.e.3.57v values at.pin 1,2,3 also gets corrected.

Even today when i started my dac it ran nicely. Almost 4 hrs i played and there was no problem at all. All parts seemed cool and even no signs on transformer getting hot.
As soon as i switched it off and switched on music was gone.
This happens everytime. I switch it on next day it works flawless. As soon as i switch off and switch on immediately , it doesnt work.
 
As soon as i switched it off and switched on music was gone.
This happens everytime. I switch it on next day it works flawless. As soon as i switch off and switch on immediately , it doesnt work.

WOW 😕 :scratch2:

Check all the solders with Magnyfing glass ! All your caps are brandnew on the two PCBs, any shorted before populating the PCBs ? Wolfson W8804 ?

You need the experience of the experienced big boys here... I have no idea of your problem !
 
WOW 😕 :scratch2:

Check all the solders with Magnyfing glass ! All your caps are brandnew on the two PCBs, any shorted before populating the PCBs ? Wolfson W8804 ?

You need the experience of the experienced big boys here... I have no idea of your problem !

If there was short anywhere do you think DAC would work in first place ?
I play 4 hrs at stretch and there are no signs of any breakdwon. Only when i restart, it doesn't play. If I give some time, it runs flawless.

As you rightly said, really need some advise from experienced DIYers here.