Yes. Please check carefully after cleaning the PCB if you have shorts, solder blobs between or behind WM8804 pins etc. I see you used SAL RPM caps, very good.
Beware, listening to this DAC can be addictive.
Beware, listening to this DAC can be addictive.
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I ll definitely do cross check if anything is omitted or missing or bridged or too much addictive 😀
Only listen to it when you got home from work not when you are going to work.
And ....think of C17....
And ....think of C17....
C17 is sorted, thanks to passive420.
I ll use for testing supplied with bom and swap for new part if everything is ok.
I ll hook it with not build yet JG buffer which should bring it even further to the audiophile land of plenty 😀
I ll use for testing supplied with bom and swap for new part if everything is ok.
I ll hook it with not build yet JG buffer which should bring it even further to the audiophile land of plenty 😀
Thank you Phil for C7. So the mark of the polarized tantalum cap is near L2 now. Is there some problems if switched on the PSP with the bad C7 position ? (8804 dead ?) Any consequence on U5 polarity (now destroyed on my pcb after checking a negative out voltage with u5)?
I always feel grateful when the more knowledgeable doesn't mind to spend a few online cycles to explain the why. It is priceless to learn from the experienced 🙂 What I love to learn is the thinking process itself, not one value vs the others. Greatly appreciated for the explanation, JP.
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There is a similar discussion going on over on the F5 thread. NP has some sage advice.😀 (Post #13635)
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But most probably I cannot put it in front and run wires to the back of enclosure where all components are ?
Why Not ? The BNC, Toslink and USB are all at the end of 12" to 16' cables. A few more inches (shielding where needed) can't make that much difference.
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Ok. Before I arrange all parts, which consist of:
Pre with source selection
Dac+psu
JG buffer + possibly salas psu
I ll ask for your advise
Pre with source selection
Dac+psu
JG buffer + possibly salas psu
I ll ask for your advise
As a moderate audio fundamentalist I can tell any change from a simple good quality 75 Ohm BNC (both sides!) with coax or just 2 untwisted wires to the PCB will deteriorate final results. 75 Ohm BNC really is the way to go. Toslink is for tossers 😀
In a world of "features" one should not forget that most devices perform best at doing one task. The KISS principle at work so better keep functionality low to an absolute minimum for maximum performance. Sounds dogmatic because it is. There are more than enough devices that work fine but our DAC should perform stellar. At least that was the initial thought when we decided on a 4 $ chip 🙂
BTW V3 can accept Toslink, you could use this from our friends at Twisted Pear:
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/digital/torx.aspx
It shows the man has gone through a lot of DIYers.
In a world of "features" one should not forget that most devices perform best at doing one task. The KISS principle at work so better keep functionality low to an absolute minimum for maximum performance. Sounds dogmatic because it is. There are more than enough devices that work fine but our DAC should perform stellar. At least that was the initial thought when we decided on a 4 $ chip 🙂
BTW V3 can accept Toslink, you could use this from our friends at Twisted Pear:
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/digital/torx.aspx
It shows the man has gone through a lot of DIYers.
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A nice little trick if you use a PC and the motherboard has the pins - make a one or two port BNC adapter from a back-plane slot cover. This one allows both in and out for S/PDIF, but most have at least the out. Just signal and ground and you have a clean feed without going through extra hardware/software on the motherboard.
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OMG ! We are all gonna die ! Bob, there are input and output wires in the same cable together. If you do it like that make sure both "hot" wires at least have their own shielding.
Motherboard ? When using a pc for audio then Toslink would have the advantage of galvanic separation...probably USB is the better choice for computer audio despite its even more complex demands. Never would have thought anyone would use an SPDIF Subbu V3 on a computer !
Motherboard ? When using a pc for audio then Toslink would have the advantage of galvanic separation...probably USB is the better choice for computer audio despite its even more complex demands. Never would have thought anyone would use an SPDIF Subbu V3 on a computer !