Build This MoFo!

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Merry Christmas Sir Rothacher :xmastree:

"Somehow it makes me feel better knowing the Dude is out there....."
 
Pretty cool, in a technology-in-your-face way. I'm thinking of the "Pass" chassis you've used, but instead of the big heatsinks, one of these per chassis, sitting on top, with the mosfet sandwiched between the chassis and the cooler.

This is a great idea ! It would fit perfectly since the heatsinks I’ve used in my ‘Pass’ chassis are very similar to the size of the Dell cpu cooler. One could fix the pcb just beside the cpu cooler and then use 3 flying leads (2-3 inches long) to connect the Mosfet. I’m not very good w mechanics so I tend to use the KISS principle...lol
 
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I discover another problem.
My input power dc range from 21V to 24 v .
when i set the bias current of 1.8 amp at 21V dc but when the dc input is 24V, the bias current is about 2.4 amp. the heatsink is too hot at 2.4 amp .
Any suggestions to solve the problem ?
I am contemplating this
120W 19V 6.15A Charger Adapter Lenov (end 4/21/2020 3:44 PM)
will a regulated dc solve the problem ??
 
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PRR

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24V implies (for 8ohm load) about 3.0 to 2.7A of idle current; any less is a waste of voltage.

The resulting 72 Watts of heat is a LOT to get rid of with ordinary heatsinks, even fans.

Cutting down to 19V (the Dude's original plan!) suggests 2A-2.1A of idle current and a much more manageable 40W of heat to get rid of.

Don't run 24V!!

19V is only 2dB less maximum output than 24V. If you are clipping, 2dB "more" is not going to cover your hunger for power.

If you "must" run 24V, be ready for heroic cooling. More even than a 200W AB amplifier, because a 200W AB amp will have many output devices, this only has one; spreading the heat around allows less heat-spreading mass in the mounting surface.
 
24V implies (for 8ohm load) about 3.0 to 2.7A of idle current; any less is a waste of voltage.

The resulting 72 Watts of heat is a LOT to get rid of with ordinary heatsinks, even fans.

Cutting down to 19V (the Dude's original plan!) suggests 2A-2.1A of idle current and a much more manageable 40W of heat to get rid of.

Don't run 24V!!

19V is only 2dB less maximum output than 24V. If you are clipping, 2dB "more" is not going to cover your hunger for power.

If you "must" run 24V, be ready for heroic cooling. More even than a 200W AB amplifier, because a 200W AB amp will have many output devices, this only has one; spreading the heat around allows less heat-spreading mass in the mounting surface.


Hi PRR,
Thank you for this valuable info.
I am running 24V dc because I am recycling the transformer form the F5 project.
I have ordered laptop power supply running at 20 V .
regards

kp93300
 
Hi PRR,
Thank you for this valuable info.
I am running 24V dc because I am recycling the transformer form the F5 project.
I have ordered laptop power supply running at 20 V .
regards

kp93300

Use a simple CRC filter to loose a bit of the voltage. A 2.2 ohm resistor will drop 5 volts with this current. It will generate about 10W. Take a 20 W version or better: buy a couple of cheap 3W and combine them (that is what I did).

You will clean up the voltage too. :D
 
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I read the 170 pages, but in the end I did not find the answer about the power supply: is there a definite gain to switch from the SMPS power supply to the linear power supply (transformer + diode bridge + C).
There are always advantages and disadvantages to every approach.

Having said that, analog supplies are usually quieter than switching supplies.
The difference is lessened the higher the circuits PSRR is.
IIRC, the ZEN 5 had a near 0 PSSR and required a regulator, and would not be a good candidate for a switching supply without the regulator.
The MOFO has a very high PSRR due to the low output Z of the follower and the high local feedback.
To me this would be the least likely candidate for an exotic supply.
As always, it would not hurt to experiment.

As always YMMV.
 
I have had good results with Dell branded power bricks. I'm using a 19v 12A Dell brick for my MoFo amp and it works great. Same with my ACA amps. I've purchased a few $10 power bricks from China that have long since been tossed in the trash for too much physical and electrical noise. The key is to purchase SMPS that are known to the audience here, otherwise you are on your own in terms of quality and problems. The more recent Meanwell supplies seem to perform well.

There is much less guesswork in a linear supply. It always works and is nice and quiet.
 
It's a Dell GA240PE1-00 that is rated at 19.5v, 12.3A, 240w. My MoFo draws about 120w and it gets only mildly warm. It is also nice and quiet.

The plug is a 7.4 x 5.08mm male jack. You'll need the appropriate female jack to accept this plug. I purchased a few of these:
7.4 x 5.08mm Female Jack. The fatter end fits into a 1/2 or 5/8" plastic wire clamp that can be fastened with a screw.

An image of my build is here.
 
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Yup, no problems at all using one PSU for both channels. Of course, you can splurge and get one for each channel. Either way, it'll work great. I was skeptical at first that the wire from a single female jack would handle the current draw from both channels but it's fine. The wire doesn't get warm at all.
 
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Heatsink?

It's a Dell GA240PE1-00 that is rated at 19.5v, 12.3A, 240w. My MoFo draws about 120w and it gets only mildly warm. It is also nice and quiet.

The plug is a 7.4 x 5.08mm male jack. You'll need the appropriate female jack to accept this plug. I purchased a few of these:
7.4 x 5.08mm Female Jack. The fatter end fits into a 1/2 or 5/8" plastic wire clamp that can be fastened with a screw.

An image of my build is here.


Eric where did you purchase those great heatsinks?
 
Sorry that I don't have a source for you. I found three of them at a local flea market over the span of about 3-4 months. They were originally 10" long and I cut them down to 5" chunks. Two for my MoFo, four for my Aleph-J. I keep looking, but haven't found any more lately. With 3A bias on a 19.5v supply for the MoFo, those sinks bake off ~60w of heat each with only a ~30c temp rise. I'd love to get my hands on more!
 
Hi guys

Found these FD841 on eBay but wonder why one of them doesn’t seem to have copper pipes...looks like aluminum pipe which doesn’t make sense for optimum heat transfer.

Thanks for the hint Vunce.

Please provide a link for your PWM temp sensing control.

Thanks

Received my FD841 and they both work.

Since I bought them used (15 usd for 2) I wanted to check if the liquid in the heat pipe did not evaporate. I simply lay them on the side and used my heat gun to heat up the bottom copper plate. Within about 1 min all the fins from both heatsinks got warm and the heat distributed equally over the entire heatsinks fins. Once I closed the heat gun I quickly touched the bottom copper square and it was barely warm..maybe 40C. These units seem very well engineered.

I’m a happy camper

Eric
 
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