I dont mean to be rude but read the previous posts >.< im helpin some other dude. But i can use this to generate the file he needs and give him a proper time scale of what frequencies are being played
Your not rude by any means
I simple missed a couple of posts. If this file is of no ust you then maybe to someone else.
Mark
I simple missed a couple of posts. If this file is of no ust you then maybe to someone else.
Mark
i used it but the output was 108mb.
which is too big to post. hopefully he can use his pc to generate the file and put it on his mp3
which is too big to post. hopefully he can use his pc to generate the file and put it on his mp3
Thanks for the links. I don't actually have an MP3 player yet but hope to once I figure out what I wanna get. I have a few friends with them so I can get the files.
I'd love to make this amp's dream come true, what does it take to make it an RH84? What is the difference between what it is now and and RH84? Is an RH84 a good choice for the driver combo I have?
I know next to nothing about amplifiers in general so this will be a welcome learning experience. I'm pretty good with a soldering iron and follow directions well.
SEP stands for? Single ended Phono..or ?planet10 said:
I'd love to make this amp's dream come true, what does it take to make it an RH84? What is the difference between what it is now and and RH84? Is an RH84 a good choice for the driver combo I have?
I know next to nothing about amplifiers in general so this will be a welcome learning experience. I'm pretty good with a soldering iron and follow directions well.
SEP= Single Ended Pentode.
I.E. 1 pentode tube is used for each output channel. As opposed to a P-P (Push-Pull) where there are 2 tubes in each output. Push-Pull offers a lot more power, but Single Ended has a big fan club for its sound.
You'll more frequently see "SET" = Single Ended Triode. A simplier type of tube.
I.E. 1 pentode tube is used for each output channel. As opposed to a P-P (Push-Pull) where there are 2 tubes in each output. Push-Pull offers a lot more power, but Single Ended has a big fan club for its sound.
You'll more frequently see "SET" = Single Ended Triode. A simplier type of tube.
901Fixer said:
RH84 is a really nice affordable single ended amp. Take your amp, add a choke, swap out the input tube for 12AT7 and replace.rewire everything underneath.
Lots on info on RH84 here. My main amp are a pair of RH84 variant monobloks.
dave
I searched RH84 a little last night. The amplifier area of this forum really intimidates me as I can read sentence after sentence and have no idea what is being discussed or even recognize the lingo or acronyms. On the Loudspeaker area I'm good for at least 20% comprehension or better, especially now that I've been here close to a year.
Where might I find some light reading on TubeAmp basics?
When you say rewire everything underneath are you just referring to wiring in the new items, choke and new tube, or replacing all of the wiring and resistors etc. underneath?
Where can I source the choke and new tube? Does the new tube fit into the existing socket?
Are there any brand/model of turntable out there that are small and have the controls on top of the case so I may drop in a replacement? The area the micromatic occupies is 13.5" x 14".
Do these CTS drivers prefer to be OB like they are or is there room for improvement. I will at least add some plywood to the back of the fiberboard baffles they are on and improve how they seal.
Where might I find some light reading on TubeAmp basics?
When you say rewire everything underneath are you just referring to wiring in the new items, choke and new tube, or replacing all of the wiring and resistors etc. underneath?
Where can I source the choke and new tube? Does the new tube fit into the existing socket?
Are there any brand/model of turntable out there that are small and have the controls on top of the case so I may drop in a replacement? The area the micromatic occupies is 13.5" x 14".
Do these CTS drivers prefer to be OB like they are or is there room for improvement. I will at least add some plywood to the back of the fiberboard baffles they are on and improve how they seal.
Im not sure on where to find chokes as i usually make designs without them.
but for your tube theres several places to buy them.
With the "rewire everything underneath" the schematic for the other amp is most likely very different. so you will be unsoldering and redoing everything if you wish to go through with this mod.
As for the light reading as light as you can get would be a forum post so if you have additional questions just ask.
So tube basics.....
Ill start with the naming convention
12AU7A
12AX7
6v6
The first two are a member of a common family of twin triodes most of which are still produced. the first number in a tubes name is the voltage of the heater.
6v6 has a 6 volt heater and the others have a 12volt.
the A at the end of 12AU7 specifies that it has higher current handling then the regular 12AU7.
Another great reson for mentioning those two 112volt tubes is this... theres actually two heaters inside them (one for each triode) theres a pin in the center thats shared and two seperate ones. Now you can bypass the center pin and operate at 12 volts
You can apply current to the center pin and operate them both at 6 volts of you can apply variable voltages to both and use the center as ground (variable under 6 volts)
the rest of the letters are just internal coding so thats enough on names for now (oh and there are exceptions like the 300B where the heater is NOT 300 volts lol)
Functions...
Ok so you all tubes fall into 3 catagories.
Directly heated.
Indirectly heated.
Cold cathode.
To keep your reading pace ill start with the ones you will see less of but you also see the alternate reason later.
Cold cathode tube---
A cold cathode has no heater and is generally labeled 0blahblah
Most of these tubes are current shunt regulaters and rectifiers.
They are almost always filled with some sort of inert gas or metal vapor most common ones are argon and mercury vapor xeon and some sort of boron chromium mixture (used in flashings on regular tubes)
Directly heated ---
Directly heated tubes have to cathode the signal is applied to the heater and then transfered to the plate.
Indirect---
There is a cathode plate or beam infront of of the heater. the signal is applied here and then is transfered to the plate.
Internal workings.....
The basic theory is based off of attraction.
As long as the voltage on the plate is higher then the cathode electrons will be attracted from the cathode to the plate.
The heater assists in the transfer of this (i forget how but its not releveant at this point and just know you need it for it to work)
So in a diode a signal is applied to the cathode and transfered with an extreme force to the plate and thats how its amplified.
Now triodes are where the fun comes in.
In most modern designs to keep noise down and to provide better amplification the cathode and the plate are both held at potential with dc.
So there is a constant stream of electrons flowing from the cathode to the plate.
The grid is inbetween and has several holes in it for the electrons to pass through. remember those inert gases that are in the flashing? well some of them float around in the tubes and they ionize on the grid when a current is applied to it.
You can now sort of imagine it as a water hose and the grid is your hand. water is flowing through it at all times but when you squeeze it (positive ac signal) the stream contracts and the opposite (negative side of the waveform) . In essence you are doing 100% replification of the signal with a grid.
Pentode and tetrodes just have more grids and sometimes a surpressor grid/screen
Now for the last part of my introduction i will tell you about everyones favorite type of tube.... The beam powered pentode.
There are special plates inside a beam power pentode that focuse the electrons into... you guessed it a very powerfull beam.
Adn then the grid (and sometimes the focus plates) transform the beam into the signal. These tubes are among the highest efficiency that are available and thus many of them are still in production (although i havent seen any 12v6gts coming out)
Oh in the naming conventions.. GT specifies "glass tube" some of them are metal and very rare now ceramic
but for your tube theres several places to buy them.
With the "rewire everything underneath" the schematic for the other amp is most likely very different. so you will be unsoldering and redoing everything if you wish to go through with this mod.
As for the light reading as light as you can get would be a forum post so if you have additional questions just ask.
So tube basics.....
Ill start with the naming convention
12AU7A
12AX7
6v6
The first two are a member of a common family of twin triodes most of which are still produced. the first number in a tubes name is the voltage of the heater.
6v6 has a 6 volt heater and the others have a 12volt.
the A at the end of 12AU7 specifies that it has higher current handling then the regular 12AU7.
Another great reson for mentioning those two 112volt tubes is this... theres actually two heaters inside them (one for each triode) theres a pin in the center thats shared and two seperate ones. Now you can bypass the center pin and operate at 12 volts
You can apply current to the center pin and operate them both at 6 volts of you can apply variable voltages to both and use the center as ground (variable under 6 volts)
the rest of the letters are just internal coding so thats enough on names for now (oh and there are exceptions like the 300B where the heater is NOT 300 volts lol)
Functions...
Ok so you all tubes fall into 3 catagories.
Directly heated.
Indirectly heated.
Cold cathode.
To keep your reading pace ill start with the ones you will see less of but you also see the alternate reason later.
Cold cathode tube---
A cold cathode has no heater and is generally labeled 0blahblah
Most of these tubes are current shunt regulaters and rectifiers.
They are almost always filled with some sort of inert gas or metal vapor most common ones are argon and mercury vapor xeon and some sort of boron chromium mixture (used in flashings on regular tubes)
Directly heated ---
Directly heated tubes have to cathode the signal is applied to the heater and then transfered to the plate.
Indirect---
There is a cathode plate or beam infront of of the heater. the signal is applied here and then is transfered to the plate.
Internal workings.....
The basic theory is based off of attraction.
As long as the voltage on the plate is higher then the cathode electrons will be attracted from the cathode to the plate.
The heater assists in the transfer of this (i forget how but its not releveant at this point and just know you need it for it to work)
So in a diode a signal is applied to the cathode and transfered with an extreme force to the plate and thats how its amplified.
Now triodes are where the fun comes in.
In most modern designs to keep noise down and to provide better amplification the cathode and the plate are both held at potential with dc.
So there is a constant stream of electrons flowing from the cathode to the plate.
The grid is inbetween and has several holes in it for the electrons to pass through. remember those inert gases that are in the flashing? well some of them float around in the tubes and they ionize on the grid when a current is applied to it.
You can now sort of imagine it as a water hose and the grid is your hand. water is flowing through it at all times but when you squeeze it (positive ac signal) the stream contracts and the opposite (negative side of the waveform) . In essence you are doing 100% replification of the signal with a grid.
Pentode and tetrodes just have more grids and sometimes a surpressor grid/screen
Now for the last part of my introduction i will tell you about everyones favorite type of tube.... The beam powered pentode.
There are special plates inside a beam power pentode that focuse the electrons into... you guessed it a very powerfull beam.
Adn then the grid (and sometimes the focus plates) transform the beam into the signal. These tubes are among the highest efficiency that are available and thus many of them are still in production (although i havent seen any 12v6gts coming out)
Oh in the naming conventions.. GT specifies "glass tube" some of them are metal and very rare now ceramic
Ok, that didn't hurt too bad.
Is there a section on this site to discuss turntables and other sources for music? There is a Technics Turntable on Craigslist, don't know the model number but thought I remember high praise for this brand in the turntable department. It looks to be really clean, might just fit in the area the micromatic vacated but even if it don't, at $75 it looks like a deal.
Duh, here is the link.http://knoxville.craigslist.org/ele/1244085199.html
Is there a section on this site to discuss turntables and other sources for music? There is a Technics Turntable on Craigslist, don't know the model number but thought I remember high praise for this brand in the turntable department. It looks to be really clean, might just fit in the area the micromatic vacated but even if it don't, at $75 it looks like a deal.
Duh, here is the link.http://knoxville.craigslist.org/ele/1244085199.html
Attachments
that looks like a full unit (as in has its own power cord) so if your going to mod this thing you can mount whatever will fit then drop the cables. or you can set it on top your choice.
and man what section are you finding all this stuff.
(granted i only look for auto parts and pc parts but still)
and man what section are you finding all this stuff.
(granted i only look for auto parts and pc parts but still)
901Fixer said:
$75 seems steep. I've not paid more than $10 for similar (and am usually only interested in the head-shell, maybe the arm). You can do a lot better.
dave
planet10 said:
I have since found the "Source" section, amazing what you can find if you look. I'll keep an eye out for some of the models I've seen recommended there.
You prefer the belt drive approach, what models would you consider acceptable at the low end of the price range? Do any come to mind that have a smaller footprint than most?
Depth should be doable with most I've seen dimensions listed for but they all might be too wide. I do suppose I could redo the area under the lid as it won't be seen and I am not keeping everything original anyway.
bacon665 said:
I'm getting better with my search criteria. Turntable or turn table. Brand names etc. Click on electronics or collectible or whatever and it will give you the newly listed items for that day.
I'll definately keep the drivers and the tube amp in this console but am not sure what I will come up with for a source(s). MP3 can be tiny and adding a tuner shouldn't be hard.
901Fixer said:
Small footprint -- see if you can talk Stew Nelles (Nanook) out of one of the Connisours i gave him (then make your own, to fit, plinth). You
d also need to scare up a tonearm.
Otherwise i'd be looking for a manual or semi-auto Japanese made CEC table with an S arm and removable headshell. My favorite is the Pioneer PL512/514. I've probably 15 that fit into that category... if you could drive by, i'd be happy to give you one (all need belt & cartridge)
dave
planet10 said:
Maybe I could talk you into refurbishing one and quote me a price shipped to Knoxville. Maybe a custom phono preamp as well so as to mate up to my soon to be RH84, and all of the parts for the RH84 conversion. I'm sure the fuel price one way to Canada alone would probably be much higher. Not to mention it would probably take me weeks to peruse all of the things Hi Fi stored in the Planet10 catacombs.
i would think a preamp would be overkill int hat set up.
You would think not but have you ever designed one?
I was working on one for a long time and finally gave up due to all the headaches involved.
You would think not but have you ever designed one?
I was working on one for a long time and finally gave up due to all the headaches involved.
Dave suggested going with a more modern turntable and phono preamp if I wanna actually use this to play 33 vinyl, which I do. I hope this phono preamp can also integrate an MP3 input as well as maybe a tuner that I could fit into the console.
It doesn't have much value in its current condition and is not some rare piece of history so keeping it looking like it does but reconfiguring the internal workings for great sound and easy use-ability is my goal.
I don't wanna build a tuner from scratch, just incorporate one into the system. Don't some preamps have a tuner built in?
It doesn't have much value in its current condition and is not some rare piece of history so keeping it looking like it does but reconfiguring the internal workings for great sound and easy use-ability is my goal.
I don't wanna build a tuner from scratch, just incorporate one into the system. Don't some preamps have a tuner built in?
Yes some of them do. and incorporating a line in shouldnt be hard you need a ganged mutli position switch. the output for the preamp or amp will be the common. and you can mount it wherever.
You won't find a much easier amp to build than an RH84. a good place to cut your teeth.
In the meantime, pick up a budget vintage receiver that you can pop in (phono & tuner and pre-amp -- you can use the power amp section until you get the RH84 built)... if it has separate pre/power in/out so much the better (otherwise you'd have to add it when it comes time to install the RH84.). An NAD7020 would be a good pick.... and even go cosmetically.
dave
In the meantime, pick up a budget vintage receiver that you can pop in (phono & tuner and pre-amp -- you can use the power amp section until you get the RH84 built)... if it has separate pre/power in/out so much the better (otherwise you'd have to add it when it comes time to install the RH84.). An NAD7020 would be a good pick.... and even go cosmetically.
dave
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