OT but that's not a car; it's a bedroom on wheels, golf clubs ? hell there is enough room for a spa bath and shower, I've lived in houses that are smaller
901Fixer said:
I'll try to take some tomorrow. The 2 halves sit on opposite walls.
Fisher is was/is well liked and fetchs high prices for the tube gear. I got this one cheap because all the electronics were gone. Speakers still there, tho.
Best of luck with your trip to get the console!
@901Fixer
I didnt know anyone in our area built stuff like that for retail xD
but then again thats an antique
I didnt know anyone in our area built stuff like that for retail xD
but then again thats an antique
Moondog55 said:
They see me rollin', they hatin'....I am so white its pitiful.
panomaniac said:
I saw one for sale that was two cubes, one had the source and the other had record storage, both had drivers. It was a bit more than I care to spend at the moment.
bacon665 said:
All of the above stuff is old, even the like new JCPenny/Motorola units, at least 30 or so years old. Some sure are ugly too. I'm sure if I buy one I'll find 5 next week for free.
bacon665 said:
Didn't even know about the dump off Lovel but thanks for the tip. I'm gonna go check this one out tomorrow morning if the owner emails me back and is available.
http://knoxville.craigslist.org/ele/1234377164.html
I'm not crazy about the oak color but the detail is very colonial with the dental moulding and panel look which I like. Would probably look great in a distressed antique white.
The ad says it won't turn on and with 8-track its probably SS electronics so is there anything I should look for that would make this jewel not worth the effort even for free? They look to be just down the street from me which is nice.
If you like the look of thing, then free is good. Don't bother much with the guts, execpt maybe the speakers themselves. Replacing the cheap 70's electronics is not a bad idea.
I remember my mother bought one very similar to that in the early 70s. It was a big disappointment (to me) compared to the 12" Lafayette coax speakers in the home made cabs my father had built. ITT tube amp - big transcription turntable. But at least I got all that gear for my bedroom - and my mother got her "furniture". So things sometimes work out. 😀
I remember my mother bought one very similar to that in the early 70s. It was a big disappointment (to me) compared to the 12" Lafayette coax speakers in the home made cabs my father had built. ITT tube amp - big transcription turntable. But at least I got all that gear for my bedroom - and my mother got her "furniture". So things sometimes work out. 😀
From taking one of these apart sanding staining and refinishing... i can tell you these are B**** to restore.
The guts should be an easy fix even though its most likely solid state i doubt theres much of a pcb.
There might be rivet board (a precurser to perf board) which will still have tails of p2p componants dangling there.
From the ad it may be using the old crappy NPN that had a socket...
I dont know where you would find one but if you can get the characteristics im sure the people here can help you find a suitable replacement, youll just have to lose the transistor socket.
The guts should be an easy fix even though its most likely solid state i doubt theres much of a pcb.
There might be rivet board (a precurser to perf board) which will still have tails of p2p componants dangling there.
From the ad it may be using the old crappy NPN that had a socket...
I dont know where you would find one but if you can get the characteristics im sure the people here can help you find a suitable replacement, youll just have to lose the transistor socket.
I went and got the Magnavox console with MicroMatic turntable.
Upon initial inspection it looks great, small wear marks and few dings. All plywood or real wood construction except for the fiberboard back, faux front and driver baffles. Two drivers per side wired in parallel, a side firing 8" or 10" and forward firing 4". The 4" has a cap, the 8" or 10" nothing. There is a balance pot on the amp but only works all the way left or right and is real muted in the center. The left side 4" is quieter than the other 3 drivers for some reason but all of the cones are intact and look healthy..
The turntable turns and plays records but sounds kinda groggy with some albums like the speed is off. A new stylus would surely help. It flips one way for 78 and the other way for LP but only sounds good flipped for 78. Whats my best source for a new one?
Other than dusty this thing looks to be only a couple of years old, probably stored in someones living room for eons. How do I figure out exactly what model and year of manufacture it is?
Upon initial inspection it looks great, small wear marks and few dings. All plywood or real wood construction except for the fiberboard back, faux front and driver baffles. Two drivers per side wired in parallel, a side firing 8" or 10" and forward firing 4". The 4" has a cap, the 8" or 10" nothing. There is a balance pot on the amp but only works all the way left or right and is real muted in the center. The left side 4" is quieter than the other 3 drivers for some reason but all of the cones are intact and look healthy..
The turntable turns and plays records but sounds kinda groggy with some albums like the speed is off. A new stylus would surely help. It flips one way for 78 and the other way for LP but only sounds good flipped for 78. Whats my best source for a new one?
Other than dusty this thing looks to be only a couple of years old, probably stored in someones living room for eons. How do I figure out exactly what model and year of manufacture it is?
Magnavox should have a manufacturer sticker somewhere...
The amp board will tell you what it is and will help us find a schematic.
The cap on the 4 inch is a high pass filter and needs to be replaced about every 1200 hours of listening(more if theres dc leakage)
Potentiometers are relatively cheap and id say the thing the wiper contacts with (my mind has gone blank) has oxidized preventing a good connection there. OR a more obvious answer would be that the center resistance is too much and its a dual mono instead of stereo so the pot is just acting as a voltage divider.
http://www.needledoctor.com/
They have a wide variety of needles for just about everything.
The amp board will tell you what it is and will help us find a schematic.
The cap on the 4 inch is a high pass filter and needs to be replaced about every 1200 hours of listening(more if theres dc leakage)
Potentiometers are relatively cheap and id say the thing the wiper contacts with (my mind has gone blank) has oxidized preventing a good connection there. OR a more obvious answer would be that the center resistance is too much and its a dual mono instead of stereo so the pot is just acting as a voltage divider.
http://www.needledoctor.com/
They have a wide variety of needles for just about everything.
I might need to post some pics as the cap is very retro lookin'. The magnets on the back of the drivers are too and measure 3.4 ohms of resistance with an ohm meter with no power to them.
The amp is a tube amp with three tubes, all glow nicely.
Should the input resistance of this amp be suitable for a common CD player or MP3 player to connect to? There are what look to be RCA style connectors between the turntable and the amp so I figured I'd try it so as to rule out what is causing what problem etc.
The needle is not like what I've found on any eBay website unless the pic they post is just a standard pic. My needle/stylus has two seperate sides with needles on each. They clip onto the plastic center section with clips on the end of the needle. The center section rotates 180 degrees to show 78 or LP on the little stalk.
The amp is a tube amp with three tubes, all glow nicely.
Should the input resistance of this amp be suitable for a common CD player or MP3 player to connect to? There are what look to be RCA style connectors between the turntable and the amp so I figured I'd try it so as to rule out what is causing what problem etc.
The needle is not like what I've found on any eBay website unless the pic they post is just a standard pic. My needle/stylus has two seperate sides with needles on each. They clip onto the plastic center section with clips on the end of the needle. The center section rotates 180 degrees to show 78 or LP on the little stalk.
Im not much of a needle man.
Glowing nicely can be a bad thing sometimes unless your just talking about the heater lol
as for the input resistance it depends on what type of needle is being used cermic or magnetic.
If its ceramic you can plug the mp3 up.
as for the retro cap i have a feeling it looks like this
if so the black band specifies the polarizing
Glowing nicely can be a bad thing sometimes unless your just talking about the heater lol
as for the input resistance it depends on what type of needle is being used cermic or magnetic.
If its ceramic you can plug the mp3 up.
as for the retro cap i have a feeling it looks like this
if so the black band specifies the polarizing
Looks like I need an Electro Voice 2664D or D1 stylus.
The caps are 16MFD and look more like an old battery that had the treated cardboard outer tube with recessed end caps. My camera is charging.
The caps are 16MFD and look more like an old battery that had the treated cardboard outer tube with recessed end caps. My camera is charging.
That thing is in REALLY good shape and its as i thought.
Its a high pass filter.
When the wax in these dries out they break down adn loose capacitance. When theyre used for several hours the wax heats up and oozes through pores in the paper to the outside as in the image of my previous post. this also causes them to lose capacitance...
any word on the voltage of the caps?
Its a high pass filter.
When the wax in these dries out they break down adn loose capacitance. When theyre used for several hours the wax heats up and oozes through pores in the paper to the outside as in the image of my previous post. this also causes them to lose capacitance...
any word on the voltage of the caps?
All it says on the caps is 16MFD and then 25VNP. The rest says US Pat. Made in USA. The turntable says its made in England.
I have a variety of Caps somewhere. What is the high pass point with a 16MFD on a 3.4 Ohm driver?
I suppose they put the drivers 90 degrees apart so as to account for the 90 degree phase difference the 1st order cap makes.
I have a variety of Caps somewhere. What is the high pass point with a 16MFD on a 3.4 Ohm driver?
I suppose they put the drivers 90 degrees apart so as to account for the 90 degree phase difference the 1st order cap makes.
fc = 2925.64233625 Hz
http://sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/CRhikeisan.htm
The speaker is the Resistor (for those of you who dont realize that)
as for the 90 degrees thing 😕
http://sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/CRhikeisan.htm
The speaker is the Resistor (for those of you who dont realize that)
as for the 90 degrees thing 😕
I have been a sponge for all of this Hi Fi information since I found this site and have been amazed, and overwhelmed, by all of the aspects that affect sound. However I do believe that the Tysen that Dave built utilize this philosophy to counteract the 90 degree phase shift that a 1st order single cap inline with the + lead causes.
I suppose both of these drivers are full range but the 4" is protected with the cap and the 8/10" has nothing. Maybe I should replace them with an FF85eNabled and SDX7. I swore I was just gonna leave it the way it is but I shoulda known better, I never leave anything alone.
Do you go to UT ?
I suppose both of these drivers are full range but the 4" is protected with the cap and the 8/10" has nothing. Maybe I should replace them with an FF85eNabled and SDX7. I swore I was just gonna leave it the way it is but I shoulda known better, I never leave anything alone.
Do you go to UT ?
ha no im still in high school.
and you can calculate for a low pass filter (cap in parralel) and a differnet highpass to make one of those a midrange and then do a calc for a low pass for the woofer and make it a full range
and you can calculate for a low pass filter (cap in parralel) and a differnet highpass to make one of those a midrange and then do a calc for a low pass for the woofer and make it a full range
I like to follow the doctrine of Planet10. Utilize a fullrange driver so as to keep the crossover points out of the telephone/critical frequencies ~250hz to ~6khz or so. Add bass and tweeter support as needed and cross actively or PLLXO if at all possible but still in the same areas. It kinda bugs me that the 4" in my console crosses over around 3k, but it is a 1st order so it adds the least coloration. The bad needle and staticy amp help to cover up most of this though.
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