LCDPS not Placid
This is using a BII w/ tridents and volumite. The transformer is wire correctly and the BII has been performing for months using the Placid w/o tridents. Recently I switched to the LCDPS after adding the Tridents because I wanted to repurpose the Placid. The temp concerned me and I had my friend touch it and he shook his head and said it was too hot also. He has been a tech for the areas major sound reinforcement rental company and has seen a lot of kit.
I turned it on 5 minutes ago and clamped a candy thermometer on it and it is already at over 130 F / 55 C. What is considered acceptable? Maybe I am just being a worry wart. My intention is to ship this to my father once I get my BIII bread boarded. I do not want to have to fix it again later...
This is using a BII w/ tridents and volumite. The transformer is wire correctly and the BII has been performing for months using the Placid w/o tridents. Recently I switched to the LCDPS after adding the Tridents because I wanted to repurpose the Placid. The temp concerned me and I had my friend touch it and he shook his head and said it was too hot also. He has been a tech for the areas major sound reinforcement rental company and has seen a lot of kit.
I turned it on 5 minutes ago and clamped a candy thermometer on it and it is already at over 130 F / 55 C. What is considered acceptable? Maybe I am just being a worry wart. My intention is to ship this to my father once I get my BIII bread boarded. I do not want to have to fix it again later...
You could always go with chassis-mounting the vreg (or transistor). It's trickier with LCxPS, as you have to mount the package, then mount the board over it. Placid was designed to allow it though, just mount the Q under the board and bend at a right angle.
Thank you Brian,
I am hopeful that the lower voltage will be enough. It should reduce the dissipation by at least 25%.
I am hopeful that the lower voltage will be enough. It should reduce the dissipation by at least 25%.
About IIR Bandwith setting I don't know wich setting to use because I want to use PCM & DSD, that's the reason I bought togheter the BIII, the Sidecar & the S/PDIF-4 Input Board.
Start with normal. Later on you might want to add a controller to your setup, to give you easier access to the settings.
Mains
Good point Brian! The voltage here at the moment is 123.8v AC/60 hz which measures 10.8v on the secondary. I'll check again later. Here it is 5:00 pm fwiw.
Good point Brian! The voltage here at the moment is 123.8v AC/60 hz which measures 10.8v on the secondary. I'll check again later. Here it is 5:00 pm fwiw.
65 C is alright? Whew- that's cooking, I could reheat my dinner with that! Well, if you say so. The worst case is having to replace an IC...
Thanks!
Thanks!
The ICs on that PSU can go up to 125C and anyway are thermally protected so they shut down if they get too hot.
B3 SPDIF 4 + SIDECAR + B3
I want to connect in stereo mode B3 SPDIF 4 + SIDECAR + B3 & configured as follows:
SW1
All OFF
SW2
All OFF except 8 ON
I want to use the LEDs that indicate input in use: Leon B3 integration manual revision 1.0.2 said page 13 "connect the 3.3v VDD pin to the switch module" I don't see any 3.3v VDD in the B3 board, I see one 3.3v ADC & another 3.3v I2C? or only is necessary to connect the 4 wire between switch & B3? I don't see any 3.3v VDD pin in the switch module?
As I understand only need to connect the ribbon cable as follows:
1st B3 SPDIF 4
2nd SIDECAR
3rd B3
4th B3 to input selector switch
All setup will powered with the 5.25V B3.
About volume control: wiper is the pin in the middle of potmeter but wich is CCW & CW?
I want to connect in stereo mode B3 SPDIF 4 + SIDECAR + B3 & configured as follows:
SW1
All OFF
SW2
All OFF except 8 ON
I want to use the LEDs that indicate input in use: Leon B3 integration manual revision 1.0.2 said page 13 "connect the 3.3v VDD pin to the switch module" I don't see any 3.3v VDD in the B3 board, I see one 3.3v ADC & another 3.3v I2C? or only is necessary to connect the 4 wire between switch & B3? I don't see any 3.3v VDD pin in the switch module?
As I understand only need to connect the ribbon cable as follows:
1st B3 SPDIF 4
2nd SIDECAR
3rd B3
4th B3 to input selector switch
All setup will powered with the 5.25V B3.
About volume control: wiper is the pin in the middle of potmeter but wich is CCW & CW?
Hi Russ,
I've read the integration guide. Can you help me understand how to connect I2S source to BIII? As for me es9018 inputs don't correspond to I2S bus specifications.
Also I would like to configure board for 6 or 4ch output, but 6ch input and output configuration is missing in the integration guide.
At page 22 of the integration guide VDD trident shall have 104 marking on R8, main has 1003. Is this the same resistor?
Can I use upper half stacking connectors for tridents just for not soldering them to the board but connect like AVCC module?
How to connect pot to the board? Included pot doesn't have any markings on pins.
I have PlacidHD working without problems I think, only one heatsink is little hotter than another. Also CCS and shunted currents in my device are almost identical. I don't know if this is normal operation. At first start pots were set to 0.9A 5.5VDC and that was very hot, perhaps like people describe around 65-70C. When I configured it to 400mA (as have been advised in Placid mannual for BIII use, if I understood correctly) 5.25VDC temperature dropped to 40-50C. I'm using 16VA 9.2VAC transformer. When connected to PlacidHD it lags to 9VAC.
I've read the integration guide. Can you help me understand how to connect I2S source to BIII? As for me es9018 inputs don't correspond to I2S bus specifications.
Also I would like to configure board for 6 or 4ch output, but 6ch input and output configuration is missing in the integration guide.
At page 22 of the integration guide VDD trident shall have 104 marking on R8, main has 1003. Is this the same resistor?
Can I use upper half stacking connectors for tridents just for not soldering them to the board but connect like AVCC module?
How to connect pot to the board? Included pot doesn't have any markings on pins.
I have PlacidHD working without problems I think, only one heatsink is little hotter than another. Also CCS and shunted currents in my device are almost identical. I don't know if this is normal operation. At first start pots were set to 0.9A 5.5VDC and that was very hot, perhaps like people describe around 65-70C. When I configured it to 400mA (as have been advised in Placid mannual for BIII use, if I understood correctly) 5.25VDC temperature dropped to 40-50C. I'm using 16VA 9.2VAC transformer. When connected to PlacidHD it lags to 9VAC.
That's because you'll have to decide how you want these to be combined. The most natural (if it's 5.1) is combining 2 outputs for left front and another 2 for right front. Plus you'll have to adjust the IV stage for these 2 channels. All those topics (including combining inputs) are covered, but since it's non-standard you'll have to read a bit more to figure out what is best for your setup.
I must admit that I too agree that high temperatures are not desired, leading to premature failures. My Pass Aleph amps run cool in comparison to my LCDPS. The new 8v transformers are in, and I'll have to see how much it helps once I have time to install them.
How do you know this? EE? With proper heat transfer I believe that the difference should not exceed 10˚C. Anyway, if a component is rated for 85˚C it will work within specs at this temperature - if not, ratings would mean nothing.
Cheers,
Nic
OK! Just heat a capacitor at 85 degree C or an IC at 125C in a device for see how long that device will work well... This kind of heating from outside is one thing. When they get hot from inside because serious issues, is a little bit different... Don`t you think?
I think you will definitively not want to have in your f. ex. amplifier some caps at running at 85 degree or active component running as usually at 125 degree. Even though they are rated respectively...
Do you know what is happen around those components running at max rated temperatures, on the PCB, on traces, on soldering point, and so on? 'You can try... Is nice to see!
I`m very convinced that a serious designer will not want to have his name connected to devices on market which run as "normal" in such "rated" temperatures... Don`t you?
BTW, Oppo answered to me at they caps in a power supply which were running hot, should run like this because they were rated at 85 C... The problem was in that case that those caps was running hot because high ripple current they have to endure, as a consequence of a bad design in their product... Also is a good excuse to use about high rated temperature on electronic components...
Nobody is suggesting that you do this. But what was said is that 55C is OK and so is 65C, because the ABSOLUTE MAX specs are 125C, it shows you the latitude that is there.
The spec sheets also show you the thermal resistance between the chip and the case, so it's trivial to work out the temp difference if you know the basic parameters, like the watts that are being put out by the chip.
I will agree with the designers and say that 65C is perfectly fine for an LM317. I have used these for many years and have yet to see one fail for being too hot.
Of course, capacitors, especially electrolytics, don't like high temps and their life will be shorter at higher temps. On good spec sheets you can even find out how much shorter.
But semiconductors don't suffer this problem and will happily run pretty much forever as long as they are kept within their rated specs. There are usually other reasons you don't want things at 125C, like it might heat up nearby components like caps too much.
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