That makes as much sense to me as saying I bought a Veyron and now can only drive at 300kmh.
Why would it make a lot of difference over a 2x10 in terms of the SPL you play at most? I'm using a 15" 3 way (+ subs for movies) in an apartment and don't get complaints, and I talk with my neighbours a lot and I know they would tell me if I was bothering them.
gforse,
given the above I strongly recommend you consider a system designed from the ground up. Designing a 3 way crossover over is a complex process.
also while a PR will give you more bass be prepared to loose transient response. In my experience PRs are nice for Home Theater subs where audio is not so critical but if you are using the same speakers for 2 channel audio you might notice this.
Usually the area of the PR is about 1.5-2x that of the woofer. This is why you often find a single 10"/12" with 2 PRs of the same size. But is the Fs and Mass of the PR that determines output.
actually phil jones use 1 PR on his top of the line AAD 7001i studio monitor.
AAD 7001i Monitor Loudspeaker Listening to what is possible without price constraints. Review By John Gatski
cheers
henry
AAD 7001i Monitor Loudspeaker Listening to what is possible without price constraints. Review By John Gatski
cheers
henry
That reminds me: The last speaker with a passive radiator I heard was the Mackie 824. Impressive amounts of bass volume and extension, so much so that I found it too much. Also it was the only active speaker I have heard which makes the bass sound as soft and mushy as a passive design.
Put me off passive radiators so much that I completely forgot about them.
PS: Tannoy made some speakers with 8 or 10 inch drivers and passive radiators of the same size in the late '70s or early '80s.
A proven system is also welcome, but Ididn't found much on the internet. Not in the way i whant. ( perhaps i'm looking at the wrong things?) I like the fact i can build it my own.
A driver and PR is also welcome als wel as 2 drivers. but a PR combinens a BR and a closed box ( soort off)
So in what direction must i look?
A driver and PR is also welcome als wel as 2 drivers. but a PR combinens a BR and a closed box ( soort off)
So in what direction must i look?
Seas and also Dayton have PR in their program.
Seas is a nice brand. but it can easily blow the budget. Two drivers are almost the same price as a PR and driver.
Hey - 2xactive and active+passive is comparing potatoes to apples! Two completely different solutions and the basic choice reflects to many other practical choices you must take to concideration after that.
Thinking of a stereo 3-way I would choose a big bass element and make it a refles with a tube.
No it doesn't. It's a ported box with the mass of the PR replacing the mass of air in the port to accomplish the same tuning.
a-ah! if you are dead set on PR systems do consider the Wavecor woofers. Check out this link. It will show you the response of PR systems.
Subwoofer examples
However my advice would be the DTQWT by Troels shown here. It has 2 10" woofers and it is a simple variation on the TL.
DTQWT-mkII
If you are going DTQWT read this note
DTQWT-amps on bi-amping:
However the DTWQT will exceed your $800 budget.
Is this budget including cabinets and crossovers?
One more option but you will have to design the crossover from scratch:
2 x Seas Prestige woofers mentioned in my earlier post $250 per pair
1 x 18 sound 6ND430 / Beyma 6G40ND $120 each
1 x Dayton PT2C-8 $40 each or HiVi RT2II $75 each.
-----
$410 each speaker with Dayton or $445 per speaker with HiVi
here are the driver links
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-085
http://profesional.beyma.com/pdf/6G40 NdE.pdf
6NMB420 - High Output MB Neodymium Driver
6ND430 - LF Neodymium Driver
the 6ND430 is about 2 db lower than 95db but this means that you will have to adjust the SEAS woofers to drop to say 92db from 94db by tuning the sealed box accordingly.
read my post 10 here
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/179947-fullrange-2-way.html
another option but this system will need to be biamped to mate the woofers to the mid and tweeter also you cannot use John K's crossover.
2 x Seas L26RFX
1 x Seas L18
1x Seas 29TAFW / 27TBFCG
Zaph|Audio
Ok just some general pointers:
Sealed
Advantages: Simple, Nice Transient response, Slow roll off, tolerant of errors in T/S sepcs.
Disadvantages: backwave "wasted" hence sensitivity of such systems is low, the roll off starts higher than in bass reflex systems
Ported
Advatages: If tuned correctly can offer plenty of punch, more efficient than sealed systems
Disadvatages: port noise if port area is too small, needs more design skills and T/S specs must be measured (published specs are not accurate enough), some loss in transient response and it decouple outside the pass band.
PR
Advantages: easy to tune by adding mass to PR; rest same as Ported.
Disadvantages: no port noise but the transient response is poorer than Ported as the mass of the PR has intertia; rest same as Ported.
TL
Advatages: superb transient response in some cases better than sealed
Disadvatages: big and complex to make and tune.
I wont get into bandpass or horns or other variations for now. These are the 4 tunings that are being discusssed here.
Hope this helps.
i think troels DTQWT is very well documented kit. he got all the basics right, not to mention well designed xo and midrange woofer.
i like to try it someday, although my inquiry wasnt responded by jantzen, prob too busy entertaining the buyers 😀
another thing is, i suspect any good power amps between 25-500watts will work nice on them.
cheers
henry
i like to try it someday, although my inquiry wasnt responded by jantzen, prob too busy entertaining the buyers 😀
another thing is, i suspect any good power amps between 25-500watts will work nice on them.
cheers
henry
I'd recommend the KT88 UL PP as the amp for these speakers. 25W is more than adequate.
here is such a kit
http://oddwattaudio.com/KT88S1.html
I think they are 95db/1W. 100W wil part your hair! 😀
Last edited:
well, little headroom for dynamics can do no harm.
although it is kind of hard to find good 500watts under $10k 😀
navin, whats ur current speakers ? i think i remember u got yellow kevlar scan MTM some time ago.
cheers
henry
although it is kind of hard to find good 500watts under $10k 😀
navin, whats ur current speakers ? i think i remember u got yellow kevlar scan MTM some time ago.
cheers
henry
I am looking to build a SEAS Excel system. Sealed W26FX001 x 2, W16NX001 + T29MF001. I dont need bass below 45Hz or so.
Currently a friend who has one too many speakers has loaned me his Audio Technology system. 2 10", 1 6", I replaced his tweeter with my 9900 tweeter. Fully active.
my older system was 2 x ACI DV12s, 2 x 18W8546 and 1 x 9900 (per channel).
before that I had 1 x JBL 2245 (B460 bass bin), 2 x Focal 8N515 and 1 x Morel MDT33 (per channel).
earlier systems when I was in the US (I lived in a small apartment so no large speakers).
a. Dynaudio 24W100, D52af, D21af
b. Focal 10N515 isobarik, 7N515, T120tdx
gforse,
do also look at an all Dayton system. They are extremely VFM. For example
2 x RS270-8
1 x RS180-4
1 x RS28F-4
you can get all the parts from parts express.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-357
Last edited:
i always want to try audio technology, how does it sound? tell us more please, i think it will be useful in this forum.
which active xo u used?
Why SEAS 3ways?
cheers
henry
which active xo u used?
Why SEAS 3ways?
cheers
henry
Why would it be. Things are only different with a passive radiator when it has reached its mechanical limits.
Hey, how is it going?
Nice to see you.
1. Audiotechnology. Their woofers seem to compress less than SS or Focal. I have compared their drivers directly as I did not have the SS and Focal units on hand when I had the AT units but just by the clean SPLs (subjective) I can achieve the impression is that they play louder if you have adequate power on tap. Not that SS, Vifa (PL), or Focals are slouches. Compared to commercial speakers from B&W, Polk, etc.. the Focals and SS were way louder. It is just that AT seems to take it up a notch not that I need the extra SPL. But the AT drivers are very expensive. Euro 500 for the woofer (each) and euro 400 for the 6". Unless I can get them for a fraction of these prices I cant afford them.
2. Crossovers are nothing special; 12db using opamps. OP275. To compensate for baffle step I just rolled the woofers off. I do intend to get some impedance compensation (passive) in sometime but so far dont feel the glaring need the AT drivers have pretty flat impedance curves. I have never felt the need for the notch filter for the 9900 either. Troels and others do.
3. SEAS well I always wanted to try Mg drivers. I have done paper, kevlar, Neoflex, and Aerogel (I had upgraded the Focal-Morel system to a 3way using a pair of Audax HM170Z0 before passing them on) but no metals. Aluminum or Mg were my options. Mg looked more exotic. Besides I won't be paying list prices for them 😉
- Status
- Not open for further replies.