Pretty much, 🙂 The Behringer would be your better option- cheap, ready made, flexibleSo no difference in performance between set resistors in the ebay one and potentiometers in the Behrenger?
Got it.. will snag one then, thank you.
Is there an inexpensive class AB amp you guys like to use as the 2nd amp w/ receiver? Seems like most everything is class D now. I will use D for the sub, but not for the woofers on the main speakers.
So, an amp with 2 channels, 80w or better rms to match the receiver... bonus points if it comes complete, enclosed, and black. 🙂
Is there an inexpensive class AB amp you guys like to use as the 2nd amp w/ receiver? Seems like most everything is class D now. I will use D for the sub, but not for the woofers on the main speakers.
So, an amp with 2 channels, 80w or better rms to match the receiver... bonus points if it comes complete, enclosed, and black. 🙂
Theres this dayton which i think was mentioned in my speaker thread:
Dayton Audio APA150 150W Power Amplifier
Though i guess its only avout 30wpc at 8 ohms stereo...
And theres also this little Dayton, which is 40wpc at 8 ohms stereo, but is class T (?)
Dayton Audio DTA-120 Class T Mini Amplifier 60 WPC
Better options? I >d rather not make a project of the amp.
Dayton Audio APA150 150W Power Amplifier
Though i guess its only avout 30wpc at 8 ohms stereo...
And theres also this little Dayton, which is 40wpc at 8 ohms stereo, but is class T (?)
Dayton Audio DTA-120 Class T Mini Amplifier 60 WPC
Better options? I >d rather not make a project of the amp.
Is there an agreed upon lower frequency at which class D is a suitable option?
For example, if the woofers in my speakers are only getting 150 hz on down, is this low enough? I didn't think it was, but maybe worth asking.
For example, if the woofers in my speakers are only getting 150 hz on down, is this low enough? I didn't think it was, but maybe worth asking.
Class D is popular for subs, mainly due to efficiency, and if you are still considering OB, with the EQ you may require, it would be worth investigation
Right, I don't have a problem with using it for my HT sub, but I'm not sure I want to use it on the bi-amped woofers on my mains...
To be honest, I'm considering just using a 2nd receiver of similar vintage to mine as a 2nd amp...
So, signal out of 1st receiver preamp - active crossover - 1st receiver amp (mids/highs) / 2nd receiver amp (lows)
To be honest, I'm considering just using a 2nd receiver of similar vintage to mine as a 2nd amp...
So, signal out of 1st receiver preamp - active crossover - 1st receiver amp (mids/highs) / 2nd receiver amp (lows)
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Why? I thought you lacked space and you only need two channels 😕To be honest, I'm considering just using a 2nd receiver of similar vintage to mine as a 2nd amp...
Not lacking in space, just don't want a bunch of little boxes all over. Its only an aesthetics thing, so not overly important anyway. I dont care for the look of the Behrenger crossover or the yhe iNuke D sub amp either.. but such is life 🙂
Yes I only need 2 additional channels to bi-amp the front mains. Another receiver would have extra unused channels
.. til I decide to Bi-amp center and rear channels too 😉
Admittedly price is a major factor here - a secondhand receiver (with good class AB amp) for 50 bucks seems better than paying for a new Chinese class d amp that is more expensive and puts out less power.
Yes I only need 2 additional channels to bi-amp the front mains. Another receiver would have extra unused channels
.. til I decide to Bi-amp center and rear channels too 😉
Admittedly price is a major factor here - a secondhand receiver (with good class AB amp) for 50 bucks seems better than paying for a new Chinese class d amp that is more expensive and puts out less power.
Gotcha. Yeah, Behringer is ugly as sin, designed for pro use mainly (they have no aesthetic taste 😉) Hide it once set, you shouldn't need to fiddle with it and putting it out of sight will deter you 

If only it was just plain black...
All those knobs, I'll have to fiddle with them all the time, just to play with them. 😉
All those knobs, I'll have to fiddle with them all the time, just to play with them. 😉
So I need 150 hz on up going to the full range, and below 150 going to the woofer, okay fine, but how do I manage this while keeping the 5.1 surround sound?
Buy a sub woofer that will let you connect the speakers wire to it and use the controls on the sub to set your crossover point. They work really well.
Buy a sub woofer that will let you connect the speakers wire to it and use the controls on the sub to set your crossover point. They work really well.
Thanks jsixis, but what you said is what i have now. 🙂
Bi-amping new 2way mains i'm building, then building an over the top HT sub (tapped horn) powered by an iNuke.
Bi-amping new 2way mains i'm building, then building an over the top HT sub (tapped horn) powered by an iNuke.
-The yamaha is a perfectly good amplifier, but if I cut in between the amp/pre-amp RCAs with an active crossover, I can only connect back in the high or low frequency leg... Meaning that any amplified sound from the receiver from the center/rear/sub* outputs will only be the highs or low frequencies (above or below 150 hz).
I doubt that is true.
The pre-outs/poweramp in sound like they ar eonly for the LR channels.
dave
An XO solution based on the Linkwitz boards will likely be an order of mabnitude better than the ProPA XOs like the Behringer.
Simpliest, with no electronic intrusion, and very low cost is a PLLXO (passive line level XO). One can build it into the cable for minimum footprint. The speakers do need to be designed to work within th elimitations they have.
A class D amplifier for <150 Hz (even <1000 Hz) should be fine. Do get a decent one thou. Where Class D usually have issues is in the higest frequencies because the switching frequency is inadequately filtered out.
dave
Simpliest, with no electronic intrusion, and very low cost is a PLLXO (passive line level XO). One can build it into the cable for minimum footprint. The speakers do need to be designed to work within th elimitations they have.
A class D amplifier for <150 Hz (even <1000 Hz) should be fine. Do get a decent one thou. Where Class D usually have issues is in the higest frequencies because the switching frequency is inadequately filtered out.
dave
Hi Dave, yes we figured out that the preamp/amp coupler was specifically the front mains, so it should work fine...
I did forget to look back into the pllxo stuff.. more learning to be done... always more 🙂 thanks!
I wondered about the behringer pots vs fixed resistors... but probably worth it to have that adjustability, adjust frequencies, levels, etc.. rather tempting in that regard.
I'm about to just buy a similar 2nd receiver to use as the amp for the woofers, have extra channels for later. This way its even a class AB amp, but on a budget .
I did forget to look back into the pllxo stuff.. more learning to be done... always more 🙂 thanks!
I wondered about the behringer pots vs fixed resistors... but probably worth it to have that adjustability, adjust frequencies, levels, etc.. rather tempting in that regard.
I'm about to just buy a similar 2nd receiver to use as the amp for the woofers, have extra channels for later. This way its even a class AB amp, but on a budget .
I wondered about the behringer pots vs fixed resistors... but probably worth it to have that adjustability, adjust frequencies, levels, etc.. rather tempting in that regard.
The pots give more flexibility, but lack accuracy & repeatability. Cheap ProPA stuff is not noted for their sonic capabilities.
I'm about to just buy a similar 2nd receiver to use as the amp for the woofers, have extra channels for later.
And how would you get at the other channels? I would advise getting a discrete amplifier, perhaps with a gain control (necessary for use with a PLLXO).
dave
And how would you get at the other channels? I would advise getting a discrete amplifier, perhaps with a gain control (necessary for use with a PLLXO).
Good point 🙂. Maybe up for some diyAudio by then 😉
I'd use them same way - use the rear out/ center out RCAs on the first receiver out to the 2nd receiver as an amp only.
Try to find a receiver with 6.1 inputs. This would be any better receiver from the pre-hdmi era. It will give u access to its power amps with volume control working but no bass/treble control. Word of caution, 95% of receivers exaggerate their output. 80 Watt receiver will only deliver 80w while drivin 1 (maybe 2) channel.
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