Beyond the Ariel

..When I make a claim I support it with data, not rhetoric.

-well, more than a few pages back when discussing reflections (reflected wavelengths) in a small room I provided several references (..or perhaps one reference with multiple references for those topics).

I don't remember reciprocal support for your claims. :eek:

[poke, poke.] :D


(..and no, I'm not being serious.) ;)
 
I have built a number of coax systems. They can work well, but not that well. The waveguides are always too small and this causes unrecoverable problems at the crossover. But I will say for simplicity they are impossible to beat. I can post data if anyone cares.

Just put a B&C coax in a flat baffle board (open baffle), use a MiniDSP and you have a pretty good dipole system (that still needs subs.) I cannot think of anything simpler.
 
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I have built a number of coax systems. They can work well, but not that well. The waveguides are always too small and this causes unrecoverable problems at the crossover. But I will say for simplicity they are impossible to beat. I can post data if anyone cares.

Just put a B&C coax in a flat baffle board (open baffle), use a MiniDSP and you have a pretty good dipole system (that still needs subs.) I cannot think of anything simpler.

Oh yeah, post the data for the Tannoy dual concentrics so we can see exactly how they sound in our rooms, loaded in our horns, with our crossovers, with our amps, with our music and mood! Thanks :p
 
Attached - there is also a coax shown in my PolarMap app on my website.
 

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I visitied a friend of mine in Hong Kong 3 years ago, where we compared Tannoy Westminster speakers to his DIY speakers, using ESS Heil amt driver, and above 14khz, a second air motion transformer based speaker. Mid low was driven by the same speaker as used in the magico mini, first version. His DIY sounded much better than Westminster, as can be even observed on the video, with bad sound quality. Sound was much more detailled, more clarity, transparece, and surprisingly good lower midrange, and bass with good transients.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yY1WK0rl-Hw
 
I visitied a friend of mine in Hong Kong 3 years ago, where we compared Tannoy Westminster speakers to his DIY speakers, using ESS Heil amt driver, and above 14khz, a second air motion transformer based speaker. Mid low was driven by the same speaker as used in the magico mini, first version. His DIY sounded much better than Westminster, as can be even observed on the video, with bad sound quality. Sound was much more detailled, more clarity, transparece, and surprisingly good lower midrange, and bass with good transients.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yY1WK0rl-Hw



Do you have the data? :rolleyes:

Not sure what is playing first but is the more natural sound of the two through my BIG mono system LOL
 
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I have built a number of coax systems. They can work well, but not that well. The waveguides are always too small and this causes unrecoverable problems at the crossover. But I will say for simplicity they are impossible to beat.
That has also been my experience. They work well, but never quite as well as I hope they will. Always chasing the woofer top end limit vs the waveguide low end limit.

They can be a lot of fun on open baffle if you get the crossover right. The P.Audio 18" are real big fun, but the crossover is difficult, if not impossible, to get right.
 
That has also been my experience. They work well, but never quite as well as I hope they will. Always chasing the woofer top end limit vs the waveguide low end limit.

They can be a lot of fun on open baffle if you get the crossover right. The P.Audio 18" are real big fun, but the crossover is difficult, if not impossible, to get right.

There is a huge difference between coaxial designs. Have had Altec, P Audio, Beyma, JBL URIE, PAS and Tannoy - all with problems of some sort but mostly the transition in the crossover - I find the Tannoy 12" is a proven design with the Tulip horn and curved cone and it is the best of the bunch.

http://www.allegrosound.com/Tannoy_Dual-Concentric.pdf

An 18" coaxial seems like would be disaster.
 
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Has anyone tried to use the Radian 8" coaxial horn loaded? That would seem more Ideal than all of these larger coaxials at the crossover point and it uses the cone as the horn flare so it would seem a good match to a horn could be worked out easier than many of the larger coaxial designs, especially those that use a separate horn like an Altec or UREI design where that has always been a problem of integration even in a standard baffle design without a horn. I don't think I have any of those Radian coaxial drivers any more, I think I sold those but they can work well with a good xo design.
 
Has anyone tried to use the Radian 8" coaxial horn loaded? That would seem more Ideal than all of these larger coaxials at the crossover point and it uses the cone as the horn flare so it would seem a good match to a horn could be worked out easier than many of the larger coaxial designs, especially those that use a separate horn like an Altec or UREI design where that has always been a problem of integration even in a standard baffle design without a horn. I don't think I have any of those Radian coaxial drivers any more, I think I sold those but they can work well with a good xo design.

I have tried them in (and the 12") horns and as direct radiators with the factory crossover and my own design,. They have a very soft compressed sound even in a horn and probably would be fine for a small system with subs but not my cup of tea. My best description is soft and compressed.
 
CFT,
I don't know what those sound like but I will say that those horns are always to small and you have to push the cone section to high into cone breakup, same as the Altec and UREI designs. Then you have the problem of time aligning the three devices to consider. Who knows with modern dsp what you can do with something like that but the price those things go for is just crazy.