I know, but people on here love to come up with their own definitions on the fly, as I am sure you have spotted!
The first thing to check if the lows need a standing wave correction. Probably yes until you rig outside 🙂
I have recently purchased small measuring package designed to measure room acoustics. It was very cheap, so i tried it. Microphone, mic preamp, software, mic stand and even suitcase was included. Mic calibration file too.
It identified two resonances in my main system. Now fixed.
It identified two resonances in my main system. Now fixed.
I'm the OP.
I'm interested in this .... The Bordeaux is an assault on diminishing returns. Meant to be Reference level speakers. And he chose Dayton Ref woofers.
Soooooooo .... this made me curious. Why not more expensive woofers, in a Ref design?
THIS is what the thread was trying to ask.
I'm interested in this .... The Bordeaux is an assault on diminishing returns. Meant to be Reference level speakers. And he chose Dayton Ref woofers.
Soooooooo .... this made me curious. Why not more expensive woofers, in a Ref design?
THIS is what the thread was trying to ask.
In any speaker, the box moves in reaction to the cone moving. 3rd law.
For a large & well engineered cabinet, this effect can be reduced to be negligible.
But with a powerful driver in a small box, the effect can significant - e.g. the Sunfire sub is known for "walking" around the room.
One way to fix this is to mount a pair 6" drivers on opposite sides of the box (rather than a single 8" on one side).
The pair of drivers do not have to be better (more expensive or highly engineered) than the single driver to achieve this.
This kit costs three times as much and uses purifi woofers. Perhaps that's what you should replace those dayton ref woofers with if you hate them so much.
https://web.archive.org/web/20211002034523/http://www.selahaudio.com/chiarezza-kit
But the intended application for this driver by the manufacturer isn't domestic. I'm very dubious it makes the slightest difference audibly at home.
Because for his chosen design criteria, they are enough. For mine, in many instances, they are not. I love the driver though and am going to be using some in a new bedroom build as well as monitors in my recording area. The latter use modest SPL, whereas the main system I expect to play very loud and clean on occasion and I still want it clean. The main system can also be physically much larger and good 15s and 18s are not an issue, especially as the subs are 21s.
What other drivers of the same size will make an audibly significant difference in this application?
Remember he's also designing for people who will complain about the cost, so specifying Accutons (for example) in the same bandwidth at several times the cost for a dB of FR and distortion improvement will mean few will ever build them.
Exacto, business side. TG has three kits named The Loudspeaker, three! Which one is the The? not any of them, or all of them, they are just for different folks at different sizes and cost, everyone wants to have The Loudspeaker.
Also in 2022 no reference speaker should have flat baffle without roundovers.. but its a easy build square boxes without roundovers and those sell in DIY kit land. All business, only reference here is in the name, although the speaker might be very good its not too hard to make better, but it would be more costly.
Also in 2022 no reference speaker should have flat baffle without roundovers.. but its a easy build square boxes without roundovers and those sell in DIY kit land. All business, only reference here is in the name, although the speaker might be very good its not too hard to make better, but it would be more costly.
Because the OP considered them sufficient for his reference design. The design itself is a quirky DIY one rather than what engineering would lead to as a reference design. It is none the worse for that but it does need bearing in mind when examining the design decisions.
When a person needs more than Accuton and a great AMT, in a design by a wonderful designer, to be considered Reference ... I bow to diminishing returns and Elitism. Thanks for all the insights. I'm bowing out, due to constant topic variations and opinions NOT related to my question. Have a wonderful weekend!
How is wanting more than an Accuton elitism? I can probably get better bass and midbass performance form my AEs at a fraction of the price, but larger physically.
You just sound dismissive of others who have a different set of performance criteria than you, and I'd consider that elitism.
It seems like many, you had a specific window of responses in mind when you asked your question. I think you already had an answer, and wanted confirmation.
Sometimes by nature, a question needs its scope expanded in order to be fully answered. There was no yes or no answer here. Just people trying to discuss the question in earnest.
Wow! The OP really sent you guys down a rabbit-hole by posing a subjective question. There really is no such animal as 'better bass'. Outside of theory, the only practical reason for building the your own system is for it to produce the 'sound you like'.
Technically speaking, the Yamaha NS10 is a really crappy speaker but studio engineers worship them as gods of sound.
My main system is very adept at playing my favourite music genres and can hold its own in movie soundtracks. It's not so good with rock music. bass notes seem to linger and resonate for longer than necessary.
My bedroom system kicks-*** with movie sound-tracks but not so much with music. The bass is either on or off, the sub is kind of a one-note wonder.
My desktop system is problematic. Little more than satisfactory for music, when it comes to movies - it sucks. ( I have discovered the problem is the amp, so bygones).
My advice, advice you'll likely not hear from anybody else: go with the ported enclosure every time. Use snap-in, component ports. With your speakers in situ, tune the ports for the 'best bass', the bass you like.
Technically speaking, the Yamaha NS10 is a really crappy speaker but studio engineers worship them as gods of sound.
My main system is very adept at playing my favourite music genres and can hold its own in movie soundtracks. It's not so good with rock music. bass notes seem to linger and resonate for longer than necessary.
My bedroom system kicks-*** with movie sound-tracks but not so much with music. The bass is either on or off, the sub is kind of a one-note wonder.
My desktop system is problematic. Little more than satisfactory for music, when it comes to movies - it sucks. ( I have discovered the problem is the amp, so bygones).
My advice, advice you'll likely not hear from anybody else: go with the ported enclosure every time. Use snap-in, component ports. With your speakers in situ, tune the ports for the 'best bass', the bass you like.