I'm not sure if these caps are good for audio. They seem to have same application purposes of Nippon Chemicon's FTP series (welding, inverters, etc)...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
But, look at this:
Cornell Dubilier 3191 series (Switching & Audio Output) labeled BC...
http://www.cde.com/catalogs/3191.pdf
One often used in vintage power amplifiers: http://www.cde.com/catalogs/550C.pdf
Cornell Dubilier 3191 series (Switching & Audio Output) labeled BC...
http://www.cde.com/catalogs/3191.pdf
One often used in vintage power amplifiers: http://www.cde.com/catalogs/550C.pdf
KEMET has manufacturing facilities are located in Mexico, China, Italy, U.K., Portugal, Finland, Sweden, Indonesia, Germany, Bulgaria and Macedonia. In year 2008 they acquired Evox Rifa Group.
Had Kemet also aquired Italian manufacturer Kendeil?? 😕
Kendeil - Aluminium electrolytic capacitors - Specifications capacitors
Maybe Mr. Pass just wants us all to buy Elna!
I would like to see his opinion on some Nichicon too... or Panasonic for that matter.
I would like to see his opinion on some Nichicon too... or Panasonic for that matter.
Yes the same with Nichicon kz Muse
I keep the silmic 2 in opposite serie low-level voltage (DC stopper and to pad off brightness )
I keep the silmic 2 in opposite serie low-level voltage (DC stopper and to pad off brightness )
Signal path - None.
But if I have to, then Nichicon KG at one value down from calculated plus Elna Silmic at 20% of that value in parallel (plus a Vishay MKP1837 10-150nF polyprop in parallel if more "air" is needed).
Cathode bypass - Nichicon S6 are good Kbypass caps for dirt cheap money . So are Elna RBS (bi-polar Silmic). If I need a really big value, I'll use a Dubilier 7P series - (any of the above usually get bypassed with a Vishay film).
My personal fave: Rubycon TWL bypassed with a Russian MBGO-2 Paper-In-Oil.
Power supply -
Low voltage (<20V): Nichicon S6 (or HT) series
Mid voltage (20-100V): Nichicon HE + small-value PIO, polyprop, or teflon
High-voltage tube supply: Nichicon KX, BHC Aerovox, or Rifa 'lytic for high values (bypassed with Solen PBB "Fastcap")
If I don't need a high value (such as 2nd cap in CLC), I'll use a PIO motor start or a Wima DCP5
But if I have to, then Nichicon KG at one value down from calculated plus Elna Silmic at 20% of that value in parallel (plus a Vishay MKP1837 10-150nF polyprop in parallel if more "air" is needed).
Cathode bypass - Nichicon S6 are good Kbypass caps for dirt cheap money . So are Elna RBS (bi-polar Silmic). If I need a really big value, I'll use a Dubilier 7P series - (any of the above usually get bypassed with a Vishay film).
My personal fave: Rubycon TWL bypassed with a Russian MBGO-2 Paper-In-Oil.
Power supply -
Low voltage (<20V): Nichicon S6 (or HT) series
Mid voltage (20-100V): Nichicon HE + small-value PIO, polyprop, or teflon
High-voltage tube supply: Nichicon KX, BHC Aerovox, or Rifa 'lytic for high values (bypassed with Solen PBB "Fastcap")
If I don't need a high value (such as 2nd cap in CLC), I'll use a PIO motor start or a Wima DCP5
My findings :
Power Supply :
Panasonic FC or Panasonic FR, always best
(Nichicon Types (KG / KZ) fail in my case)
Signal Path :
If Elko is need :
Elna Silmic II very good
(Nichicon Types (KG / KZ) fail in my case)
If MKP than
Mundorf Suprem
Both Elkos and MKP bypass with KP1832 are very supremely improve
Power Supply :
Panasonic FC or Panasonic FR, always best
(Nichicon Types (KG / KZ) fail in my case)
Signal Path :
If Elko is need :
Elna Silmic II very good
(Nichicon Types (KG / KZ) fail in my case)
If MKP than
Mundorf Suprem
Both Elkos and MKP bypass with KP1832 are very supremely improve
Great thread so I figured I'd ask here.
I have a MC phono preamp that uses an external power supply. Inside the preamp itself there is one 'lytic cap in each channel - 1000uF, 63V, 105C - that is right where the feed from the external supply hits the PCB. I need to replace these two caps as they are starting to bulge.
I am limited in size since this is a rather small chassis. The original caps are Cosonic (?) 24037. The space available for a replacement will fit a radial lead cap no greater than 1.240" long and .630" wide. Searching through Digikey for caps that meet the electrical and size requirements yields:
Panasonic NHG and FC series
Nichicon PW, VY and VZ
Rubycon PX
United Chemicon KMG
None of these appear to be the types most recommended in many of the cap threads. I wonder if anyone can give me a recommendation on which might be a good bet? As this is a high gain phono preamp I suspect noise and distortion would be important factors. Not sure about ripple current. Thanks in advance for the help.
I have a MC phono preamp that uses an external power supply. Inside the preamp itself there is one 'lytic cap in each channel - 1000uF, 63V, 105C - that is right where the feed from the external supply hits the PCB. I need to replace these two caps as they are starting to bulge.
I am limited in size since this is a rather small chassis. The original caps are Cosonic (?) 24037. The space available for a replacement will fit a radial lead cap no greater than 1.240" long and .630" wide. Searching through Digikey for caps that meet the electrical and size requirements yields:
Panasonic NHG and FC series
Nichicon PW, VY and VZ
Rubycon PX
United Chemicon KMG
None of these appear to be the types most recommended in many of the cap threads. I wonder if anyone can give me a recommendation on which might be a good bet? As this is a high gain phono preamp I suspect noise and distortion would be important factors. Not sure about ripple current. Thanks in advance for the help.
Hi tonyptony
Do you really need 1000uF inside preamp? If the external power supply integrates 1000uF output capacitors, it is not necessary to put 1000uF capacitors inside preamp. A 100uF or 10uF might be enough. I this case you can use some of recommended capacitors.
For tube lovers AN newcomers Mono and Stereo High-End Audio Magazine: Audio Note (UK)™ Electrolytic Capacitors NEW
Regards,
Tibi
Regards,
Tibi
when you have removed one 1mF, test it.
Local decoupling is very important.
Check that there is adequate HF and MF decoupling on the PCB and in the correct/best locations.
When these are right, the LF decoupling provided by the 1mF is less important.
Is there a voltage regulator on the PCB. If so then that quite effectively isolates the 1mF from the circuit/amplifier and makes the 1mF even less important.
Does your 1mF need to be 63V? That is quite high for a single ended supply for RIAA pre.
Most operate with less than 30V and some with around 20V to 24V
Local decoupling is very important.
Check that there is adequate HF and MF decoupling on the PCB and in the correct/best locations.
When these are right, the LF decoupling provided by the 1mF is less important.
Is there a voltage regulator on the PCB. If so then that quite effectively isolates the 1mF from the circuit/amplifier and makes the 1mF even less important.
Does your 1mF need to be 63V? That is quite high for a single ended supply for RIAA pre.
Most operate with less than 30V and some with around 20V to 24V
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Eric and Andrew, I'm doing a direct replacement of the parts that are inside the preamp chassis. I'd rather take that route right now. Not sure I want to veer too far away from the existing design and risk changing how the unit performs. Thanks.
Actually, I didn't notice it last night but one of those caps has actually started leaking from one of the leads at the base. Fortunately it has not leaked on to the PCB.
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