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Carlos, your CloneMaker is brilliant !!!!! I'd be starting at all those adjustments and I wouldn't know where to start or finish, it'd be like that kids game where you have to smack the rabbit on the head every time one of them pops up out of a hole !
Greg,
I would like to suggest if possible that it would be easier for beginners like me if the final pcb allows us to put as much of the parts on the top side of the pcb. I found that the simple act of cleaning the solder flux off the board (paint brush dipped in acetone) was much easier without the complication of parts on the bottom and it was easier to debug things when I have only to look at one side. It also means I don't accidentally melt any capacitors when I have to go and fix something with the soldering iron.
Greg,
I would like to suggest if possible that it would be easier for beginners like me if the final pcb allows us to put as much of the parts on the top side of the pcb. I found that the simple act of cleaning the solder flux off the board (paint brush dipped in acetone) was much easier without the complication of parts on the bottom and it was easier to debug things when I have only to look at one side. It also means I don't accidentally melt any capacitors when I have to go and fix something with the soldering iron.
Thanks Luke. It is amazing how good you can get at soldering after only 40 years practice.
BTW, I forced myself to solder fast on these boards and no cleaning was allowed, they are only for testing I kept telling myself. You can see the flux splatter, I feel ashamed.
Hi Bigun,
I agree 100%.
A few tips that might help. I usually use a toothbrush and alcohol for cleaning. For soldering I like to use 2 soldering irons with different size tips. A small one for small components and thin tracks and a large one with adjustable temperature for the other situations. I also use different sized solder. 0.56mm for the small tip and 1.0mm for the larger tip. The thicker solder draws to much heat from the small tip. When soldering components, attack the joint from the side with the least amount of copper track. Always rotate the board so your iron is in a comfortable position.
regards
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Joined 2009
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although not necessarily in that order
Yeah, I find the alcohol takes the boredom out of cleaning PCBs.
Thanks Luke. It is amazing how good you can get at soldering after only 40 years practice.
BTW, I forced myself to solder fast on these boards and no cleaning was allowed, they are only for testing I kept telling myself. You can see the flux splatter, I feel ashamed.
Ive had a few years as well, but im still impressed. What solder do you use, I cant believe youve not cleaned the flux off?
Do you use isopropyl alcahol? I ask that becuase its getting harder to get and only in 100ml bottles now and they register your name so ig theres a good alternative I would like to know.
Promise not to tell....Dick Smith super solder and Duratech.
Nothing special.The Dick Smith super solder is 0.56mm and produces very little mess. The 1.0mm Duratech stuff leaves some flux on the PCB.
I think the photo hides most of the flux. Did you look at the greater than full screen shot, you can see all the little white spots all over the PCB.
regards
Promise not to tell....Dick Smith super solder and Duratech.
The Dick Smith super solder is 0.56mm and produces very little mess. The 1.0mm Duratech stuff leaves some flux on the PCB.
I think the photo hides most of the flux. Did you look at the greater than full screen shot, you can see all the little white spots all over the PCB.
regards
Yeah, I gotta say, the dick smith stuff aint to bad. They have ditched their whole component bussiness here, and I like them more than Jaycar. Jaycar use cheap knockoff no mame semis, Dick smith used national and onsemi.
Has dick smith done the same in Aussie?
Unfortunately it is heading that way, most dick smith shops now only have consumer goods, they don't even sell fuses! There are a few select stores that still have components but not many. The best solder I had was from tricky dicky, it was 2% copper and I think the lead and tin were 1% less each, was really nice but unfortunately they don't have it any more (nor can I find any other supplier).
I was looking for a source for the output transistors today. Farnel and RS were I think around the $13 each mark, but Altronics has them for $6.50 each. Mouser in the states have them for $2.84 each (fairchild) or $3.35 Toshiba (but shipping would likely be steep, ok I checked for four trannies $13.40, shipping $39!). Futurelec has them for $1.80 but manufacturer is listed as various, and the case as T03-PN a bit suspect I think... I did buy my LM3886-TF's from them and they were fine (and also very cheap) but in this instance I'm not so sure.
Where are any other Aussies sourcing these transistors?
Tony.
Isopropyl alcohol
In Australia we can buy isopropyl alcohol from supermarkets - see :: Isocol ::. At 64% proof & 345ml, it is a bit cheaper than Jaycar.
In Australia we can buy isopropyl alcohol from supermarkets - see :: Isocol ::. At 64% proof & 345ml, it is a bit cheaper than Jaycar.
Hi Hugh,
looking at the schematic, I'm thinking I'd want 2 of the 2SC5200's and 2 of the 2SA1942's, Assuming of course no disasters for a stereo amp. So it is only $26 from Altronics (not really going to break the bank, just being a bit of a tight $%$%) the price difference between the states and here especially the farnel price! is typical, I just like to winge about it
I'm sure the Power Supply will end up being 4 X the altronics price for the transistors at least!!
If four transistors isn't more hassle than it is worth then I'd be very happy to get them from you, because I would be confident then that they are the real deal!
Thanks,
Tony.
PS I finally got the Nichicon KG's for my trusty old playmaster series 200, but I haven't put them in yet. Also planning to make a nice PS with the Phillips diodes you recommended (already did a basic one for my LM3886), looks like I'll have to get a few more now I just went and checked my email and the emails we exchanged about Power supplys was in July 2005. Oh well better late that never!! It seems that project was shelved along with the speaker project!!
looking at the schematic, I'm thinking I'd want 2 of the 2SC5200's and 2 of the 2SA1942's, Assuming of course no disasters
for a stereo amp. So it is only $26 from Altronics (not really going to break the bank, just being a bit of a tight $%$%) the price difference between the states and here especially the farnel price! is typical, I just like to winge about it I'm sure the Power Supply will end up being 4 X the altronics price for the transistors at least!!
If four transistors isn't more hassle than it is worth then I'd be very happy to get them from you, because I would be confident then that they are the real deal!
Thanks,
Tony.
PS I finally got the Nichicon KG's for my trusty old playmaster series 200, but I haven't put them in yet. Also planning to make a nice PS with the Phillips diodes you recommended (already did a basic one for my LM3886), looks like I'll have to get a few more now
I just went and checked my email and the emails we exchanged about Power supplys was in July 2005. Oh well better late that never!! It seems that project was shelved along with the speaker project!!Tony,
You can tell which Dick Smith stores are still selling electronic components - the one still have Tricky Dickie as store logo. I picked up some bargain components at 80% off from Tricky Dickie store when they renovated the store and I wish that I bought more resistors as my stockpile is running low now.
If you have an ABN, Wagner (WES Components) in Sydney is little bit cheaper than Altronics and they have a wider range.
Mouser does free shipping to Oz when the order is more than A$200 and they have a very wide range including the Nichicon Muse KZ & shipping is fast if everything are in stock. It make sense to pool up & do a component group-buy.
I bought from Futurlec once and the shipping was cheap, most of parts were OK with the exception of four TO-3 output transistors for my Leach build.
Cheers, Stanley
Done, I will get them to you, but please email me via my website. I buy product from the Toshiba factory in Bangkok through a S'pore agent, they are indeed genuine, and VERY good devices. Normally I don't sell parts at all, but I have plenty at present and a couple of small samples is not a problem.
Hugh
Hugh
Hugh
Hugh