No, actually I have a much better idea for qusp.
Since you have cheap access to copper, may I suggest that you get someone to custom make you 2 heatsinks, each using a 350x150x8mm copper base plate, with 2x2mm slits along the short side every 10mm, onto which you silver solder 35 fins of 44x150x2mm. No blackening, just electro-polish afterwards.
Still won't bring the temperature down to 55°C (all the potential gain you might obtain by using copper will certainly be lost by not having dull black radiating but shiny raw copper surfaces), but it will look gorgeous, and it will keep you away from polishing your car every weekend.
Now, if you could get 2 of those made before X'mas and ship them to Hong Kong (at your cost, since we cannot afford already expensive Australian Post for aluminium, not to speak of copper), I promise you we'll put them on our prototype housing, for a photo at least.
😀
Patrick
PS
Total estimated weight of copper sinks 10kg each.
We might even consider custom-making a housing for you (at cost) to accommodate 175mm high copper sinks.
But you then need to increase the fin pitch to 11 or 12mm for real performance gain.
.
Since you have cheap access to copper, may I suggest that you get someone to custom make you 2 heatsinks, each using a 350x150x8mm copper base plate, with 2x2mm slits along the short side every 10mm, onto which you silver solder 35 fins of 44x150x2mm. No blackening, just electro-polish afterwards.
Still won't bring the temperature down to 55°C (all the potential gain you might obtain by using copper will certainly be lost by not having dull black radiating but shiny raw copper surfaces), but it will look gorgeous, and it will keep you away from polishing your car every weekend.
Now, if you could get 2 of those made before X'mas and ship them to Hong Kong (at your cost, since we cannot afford already expensive Australian Post for aluminium, not to speak of copper), I promise you we'll put them on our prototype housing, for a photo at least.
😀
Patrick
PS
Total estimated weight of copper sinks 10kg each.
We might even consider custom-making a housing for you (at cost) to accommodate 175mm high copper sinks.
But you then need to increase the fin pitch to 11 or 12mm for real performance gain.
.
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Oops. Point taken, I probably read too much into your post.
For the clear top version, that would definitely require super-bright blue led's to complete the aesthetic. 😉
For the clear top version, that would definitely require super-bright blue led's to complete the aesthetic. 😉
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Oops. Point taken, I probably read too much into your post.
For the clear top version, that would definitely require super-bright blue led's to complete the aesthetic. 😉
nope, blue LEDs would not look as sweet as white LEDs and detract from the lovely warm and natural sounding copper
If your argument is that you like polished copper shining from your housing, then it is another story. Then it can be worth 20,00 bucks.
And we shall be most happy to supply you with a housing with a see-through top, at a bargain price which is only a fraction of the 20 grand !!
by geez I think hes got it hehe, glad the emoticons were not necessary. yeah international shipping from OZ is insanely priced!! a sad fact that I and my international customers must deal with every other day of the week.
my idea was not totally form over function, I would like them to do their job well too, but the actual audible benefit is not of great concern
I was under the impression that a mixed metal sink would actually be better than solid copper? being that Al has better dissipation??. see I would like to work titanium and tasmanian native timer into my case as features if I go my own custom route and I think that Al, Ti, Cu and wood would look really quite special. I would anodize the Ti in a similar fashion to the roof tiles on the Guggenheim. I already have a small batch of large custom milled 50 x 40mm and smaller 30 x 20mm volume knobs. and yes I had thought of a clear top
much as I would love to supply you with some very large coppery gifts, even cheap copper is expensive in these amounts
yes I guess you did, a fool and his money are easily parted as the saying goes..
but
now with that flight of fancy out of the way, on with the show, this is really getting quite exciting and my studio monitors are looking at me with sad eyes😛
but
this is kinda a deal killer haha, only people who have inherited this kind of money would be silly enough to go any further at that point, given to earn that kind of spare coin, you would hope to have the wit to call off the deal right there. Al is also expensive, so even cost saving could not hope to be worthwhile from my end.EUVL said:snip/We might even consider........
now with that flight of fancy out of the way, on with the show, this is really getting quite exciting and my studio monitors are looking at me with sad eyes😛
The case looks stunning on my screen as it stands this afternoon.
We tried to make it 20mm wider or 25mm thicker, and it just did not look right any more.
So it is going to stay as I have announced.
Detail drawings this weekend and they are off for machining (queuing) next week.
Hopefully prototype in time for Xmas.
😉
Patrick
We tried to make it 20mm wider or 25mm thicker, and it just did not look right any more.
So it is going to stay as I have announced.
Detail drawings this weekend and they are off for machining (queuing) next week.
Hopefully prototype in time for Xmas.
😉
Patrick
Just one on cooper enclosed a quote I got from Italy
Stuff at times is cheaper there and I am vaiting for quotes from the uk.
Price per Kg at between 12 and 9 Euros
The plan is to build an enclosure for different projects and eventualy A75 so this is probably off topic.
I think I will stick with Patrick case for this one.
So here it goes
God point about copper about 2 times the heath conductivity off Aluminium
Bad point not easy to turn black so you loose a bit of the advantagge of the above.
It will also need for the fins to be made from thinner sheet say 1 mm that have to be brazed or soldered to the thick plate this take time and effort pluss loads off cuts and scrapes as is not the easier stuf to cut.
Forghet plasma cutters they will not go near it as it is reflective so is shears or by hand and then it has to be deburred.
But then this is DIY so think at all those lovelly 10ns of hours you have to spend making it, god point maybe, it is for me.
So the crunch
I have been looking for the stuff in the UK replies for Enquiries where from we don't stock that to are you shure yuo are not green with litle aerials stiking out of your scull?
This is the quote from Italy
Planed 2 heath sinks 400 x 300 base plate 10 mm thick with 50 fins brased fin size 300 x 100 1mm thick.
Quote >
I prezzi indicati sono a kg.
le piastre 400 x 300 x 10 pesano circa 26 kg x 11,80 = 259.60
le lastre rame " " 36 Kg x 8,80 = 316.80
imballo 20.00
trasporto 250,00
TOTALE CIRCA 847 Euro
Le lastre cotte si possono piegare e stampare mentre le lastre crude no
Cordiali saluti
Renzo Bacelle
Metal B
It translate to 26 Kg at 11.6 Euros for the plate
and 36 Kg for 2 sheets at 8.8 euros
+ 250 euros for transport
total 840 euros
62 Kg
Maybe you would like to ask Papa to lift the thing for you.
I still think that a 5 or 10 mm thick spreader plate is a good idea copper heath conductivity about 2 times Alluminium after all and if you find decent prices in the UK I will be gratefull if you let me Know.
Aluminium alternative se attached quote.
Prices for the 300 long sink 400 tall no bad for 10 pieces for the A75 probably the top one is better grup buy any one ?
Al
Stuff at times is cheaper there and I am vaiting for quotes from the uk.
Price per Kg at between 12 and 9 Euros
The plan is to build an enclosure for different projects and eventualy A75 so this is probably off topic.
I think I will stick with Patrick case for this one.
So here it goes
God point about copper about 2 times the heath conductivity off Aluminium
Bad point not easy to turn black so you loose a bit of the advantagge of the above.
It will also need for the fins to be made from thinner sheet say 1 mm that have to be brazed or soldered to the thick plate this take time and effort pluss loads off cuts and scrapes as is not the easier stuf to cut.
Forghet plasma cutters they will not go near it as it is reflective so is shears or by hand and then it has to be deburred.
But then this is DIY so think at all those lovelly 10ns of hours you have to spend making it, god point maybe, it is for me.
So the crunch
I have been looking for the stuff in the UK replies for Enquiries where from we don't stock that to are you shure yuo are not green with litle aerials stiking out of your scull?
This is the quote from Italy
Planed 2 heath sinks 400 x 300 base plate 10 mm thick with 50 fins brased fin size 300 x 100 1mm thick.
Quote >
I prezzi indicati sono a kg.
le piastre 400 x 300 x 10 pesano circa 26 kg x 11,80 = 259.60
le lastre rame " " 36 Kg x 8,80 = 316.80
imballo 20.00
trasporto 250,00
TOTALE CIRCA 847 Euro
Le lastre cotte si possono piegare e stampare mentre le lastre crude no
Cordiali saluti
Renzo Bacelle
Metal B
It translate to 26 Kg at 11.6 Euros for the plate
and 36 Kg for 2 sheets at 8.8 euros
+ 250 euros for transport
total 840 euros
62 Kg
Maybe you would like to ask Papa to lift the thing for you.
I still think that a 5 or 10 mm thick spreader plate is a good idea copper heath conductivity about 2 times Alluminium after all and if you find decent prices in the UK I will be gratefull if you let me Know.
Aluminium alternative se attached quote.
Prices for the 300 long sink 400 tall no bad for 10 pieces for the A75 probably the top one is better grup buy any one ?
Al
Attachments
If you want to DIY copper heatsink, you can do it like this :
DIY Heatsink
Cutting sheets and bars is easy enough. Put thin silver solder foils in between, and paint some liquid flux. Assemble together and clamp with screw first (with stack of disc washers to preload). When all is fine, heat up to temperature until solder flows. Disc washers will maintain pressure. Allow to cool. Q.E.D.
Patrick
DIY Heatsink
Cutting sheets and bars is easy enough. Put thin silver solder foils in between, and paint some liquid flux. Assemble together and clamp with screw first (with stack of disc washers to preload). When all is fine, heat up to temperature until solder flows. Disc washers will maintain pressure. Allow to cool. Q.E.D.
Patrick
I worry that this is going to need some kind of reinforcement, because copper is too soft to handle its own weight at that size I would imagine.
qusp
weight shuld be fine just a couple of holes on the sides (10mm shuuld take M8 bolts) to bolt on front and back pannels.
Ops more secrets
you can even put the 2 large plates on the outside so to see all your lovelly wiring
and the fin inside so just to live a gap between the 2 like 2 combs (wonder why 100 fins 1 mm thick on a 400 mm profile and say you keep the 2 plates 120 mm appart you just have the botom 10 mm for same M4 bolts so you could attach same nice 12 volt fans in series whit a busted up LM 317 and a thermistor to keep the temperature constant
why 3 12 volts fans because it gives you 36 V and fans make les noise at low voltagge and you got 20 24 on the suply which is just fine.
Bolt over a nice piece of wire mesh and the botom made out of plexy glass with the rest of the eletronics inside litle copper boxes made with the scrap cooper left over from the fins
you end up with a tower like say 420 deep 500 tall and say 150 wide Now what size is your trafo mine has to go in a separte box
No I am not going to tell you about the front as is going to be beter looking than yours.
You may find a way to gold plate the copper if you know a gold smith (luky B@@@@@) and may use Mumetal for the electronics as I am shure you will .
But still the front of mine be better looking.
Al
weight shuld be fine just a couple of holes on the sides (10mm shuuld take M8 bolts) to bolt on front and back pannels.
Ops more secrets
you can even put the 2 large plates on the outside so to see all your lovelly wiring
and the fin inside so just to live a gap between the 2 like 2 combs (wonder why 100 fins 1 mm thick on a 400 mm profile and say you keep the 2 plates 120 mm appart you just have the botom 10 mm for same M4 bolts so you could attach same nice 12 volt fans in series whit a busted up LM 317 and a thermistor to keep the temperature constant
why 3 12 volts fans because it gives you 36 V and fans make les noise at low voltagge and you got 20 24 on the suply which is just fine.
Bolt over a nice piece of wire mesh and the botom made out of plexy glass with the rest of the eletronics inside litle copper boxes made with the scrap cooper left over from the fins
you end up with a tower like say 420 deep 500 tall and say 150 wide Now what size is your trafo mine has to go in a separte box
No I am not going to tell you about the front as is going to be beter looking than yours.
You may find a way to gold plate the copper if you know a gold smith (luky B@@@@@) and may use Mumetal for the electronics as I am shure you will .
But still the front of mine be better looking.
Al
You don't need to use Oxygen Free Copper for the heatsink.
There are high strength copper which bends much less easily and still has the same thermal conductivity.
At work, we use special copper (costs 10x as much as OFC) for a lot more perverse purposes.
Patrick
There are high strength copper which bends much less easily and still has the same thermal conductivity.
At work, we use special copper (costs 10x as much as OFC) for a lot more perverse purposes.
Patrick
I am currently looking into having some custom z-foil resistors being made up by texas components, will be 0.22 ohm resistors currently in 4 lead packages in the same footprint, but looking at having them made in 2 lead. In sets of 8 matched to 0.5% no word on price as of yet. Is anyone else interested?
yep, keep me in the loop there ashaw. I was planning on contacting Janet for the same reason
haha so the casethetic aesthetic pathetic challenge has begun....
haha so the casethetic aesthetic pathetic challenge has begun....
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Making these is requiring them to make them out of 2 separate substrates in one package. This is going to make these normally expensive resistor more so. Also due to the matching there will be a need for a group buy to make this economically feasible.
EUVL: if I cannot get a 2 lead version, would you mind adding connections for a 4 lead resistor to the PCB?
EUVL: if I cannot get a 2 lead version, would you mind adding connections for a 4 lead resistor to the PCB?
The holes are currently on 5mm & 9mm pitch.
Not possible to have 2.5, 5, 7.5, & 9 pitch all at the same time.
So majority interest has priority.
You can either bend the legs, or drill new holes and solder.
You can also use Caddock MP930.
But you will need separate heat sink for these in any case if you want to use our housing, as free air rating is only 1.5W.
The current Conrad heatsink layout will not have sufficient space to allow for the extra 50mm in height required.
See post #326.
Patrick
Not possible to have 2.5, 5, 7.5, & 9 pitch all at the same time.
So majority interest has priority.
You can either bend the legs, or drill new holes and solder.
You can also use Caddock MP930.
But you will need separate heat sink for these in any case if you want to use our housing, as free air rating is only 1.5W.
The current Conrad heatsink layout will not have sufficient space to allow for the extra 50mm in height required.
See post #326.
Patrick
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I want to do a survey -- how many of you would want to do C-R(L)-C, and how many regulator (as in Zen V3) ?
It's to do with the case layout.
C-R-C
xxx
xxx
xxx
C-Reg-C
xxx
xxx
xxx
Please copy the blue section and fill in nicknames.
Patrick
PS Regulator has the advantage that it may also be used to shut down the power to the amplifier in case of fault (e.g. output differential DC).
It's to do with the case layout.
C-R-C
xxx
xxx
xxx
C-Reg-C
xxx
xxx
xxx
Please copy the blue section and fill in nicknames.
Patrick
PS Regulator has the advantage that it may also be used to shut down the power to the amplifier in case of fault (e.g. output differential DC).
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