Just put your live wires where the thermistors are, and the other ones in the other spots, and you can’t go wrong.
Looking at Floccini's diagram in #1719, should the SW1 and SW2 wires go to barrier strip to allow double runs to come off, like the illustrations splitting off into two runs, total of four runs going to N1, R1, R2, N2, or can I simplify and run one line to N1, and jumper to N2 and run one line to R1 and jumper to R2?
Or is this not proper way and two full lines run from each switch 1 and switch 2 position? Sounds fine to me, but I'm always using logic of water in pipe for electricity in wire, which I know is wrong!
Diagram very helpful!
Russellc
Or is this not proper way and two full lines run from each switch 1 and switch 2 position? Sounds fine to me, but I'm always using logic of water in pipe for electricity in wire, which I know is wrong!
Diagram very helpful!
Russellc
I have same, two wires from each side, and I love barrier strips for some reason. With basic CL 60 circuit as on most First Watt only has two wires coming in,
so did double take on four wires needed! Plus, I have used very heavy gauge wire, two wires per post, no way two more would fit! Bringing wires down to barrier strip and then splitting from it would be my planned way.....then lazy brain of mine thought, just shorten that way shorter by jumpering! I'm going to use these little NTC pcb one way or the other! Mainly it is because I want to save on the tiny capacitor LOL.
Surprised my idea held air! Even blind squirrel gets occasional nut.
Russellc
I have learned the hard way to first shape heavy hook up wire before ANY soldering takes place. Especially the 10 gauge. Once ends are soldered, enough liquid lead soaks into the multi strand turning it into stiff bar.
Russellc
Russellc
Yes, I used them as provided in kit, plus bought a bag from amazon too. All my point to point on boards, amp and power supply have connections through those pins. It was putting the on the ends that converted wire to solid rod from solder wicking. I just pre shaped the wires, added ends, added shrink wrap. Pins were slightly difficult to solder, needed tp get krickey hot for solder to flow. Pre tinned them first helped quite a bit.
Russellc
Russellc
Thinking outside the box...
This is a discussion about soldering the large wires coming from the power supply to the board, right?
If the wires carrying the voltage are big... then how about if instead of soldering we used a mechanical connection?
Have a hole through pad on the board and install a threaded post using nuts. That will hold the post to the board and make mechanical and electrical connection. Then bring the wire, crimped into a spade or ring connector and bolt that to the post coming out of the pcb. Perhaps add a little bit of conducting grease where the metal meets metal to ensure connectivity and no rust.
Eons ago, when I was designing hardware, -for aerospace- we never directly soldered power wires to the boards. Instead we used plug in edge connectors.
This is a discussion about soldering the large wires coming from the power supply to the board, right?
If the wires carrying the voltage are big... then how about if instead of soldering we used a mechanical connection?
Have a hole through pad on the board and install a threaded post using nuts. That will hold the post to the board and make mechanical and electrical connection. Then bring the wire, crimped into a spade or ring connector and bolt that to the post coming out of the pcb. Perhaps add a little bit of conducting grease where the metal meets metal to ensure connectivity and no rust.
Eons ago, when I was designing hardware, -for aerospace- we never directly soldered power wires to the boards. Instead we used plug in edge connectors.
needle end wire connectors are good enough and simple enough for me
in previous life I did maintenance and service of few KW range of tube FM transmitters ......... but I don't see a need to transfer everything from that field in this field
some applicable things I did, but my Audiophoolery is (Tnx Buddha) rather weak these days
as my Guru said few times - "I'm leaving that Drek to ones who doesn't know better....... "
that for Pearl 3 , M16 pcb mounting screw for chassis GND
needle end wire connectors are good enough and simple enough for me
in previous life I did maintenance and service of few KW range of tube FM transmitters ......... but I don't see a need to transfer everything from that field in this field
some applicable things I did, but my Audiophoolery is (Tnx Buddha) rather weak these days
as my Guru said few times - "I'm leaving that Drek to ones who doesn't know better....... "
Well, my designs could survive an EMP. ;-)
Should I worry if the 252SIT is running cool even when I'm playing music?
I was playing Loggings and Messina Vahevala, I turned it up a little bit and I THINK I heard the dreaded congestion on the right channel. I immediately turned the volume down and everything has been fine since.
So, after the song, I felt the amp ( I have a PC laptop dual fan cooler on it ) and the right channel feels room temp and the left a little warm. The amp was on all night. It was a little warm this morning, but the fan was turned off.
This amp sounds really good but I'm sooo paranoid about it.
I was playing Loggings and Messina Vahevala, I turned it up a little bit and I THINK I heard the dreaded congestion on the right channel. I immediately turned the volume down and everything has been fine since.
So, after the song, I felt the amp ( I have a PC laptop dual fan cooler on it ) and the right channel feels room temp and the left a little warm. The amp was on all night. It was a little warm this morning, but the fan was turned off.
This amp sounds really good but I'm sooo paranoid about it.