Is this an acceptable sub for OK1,OK2? The sharp part appears to be discontinued
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/onsemi/FOD817D/1049688
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/onsemi/FOD817D/1049688
there is a link in post #1 leading to post #624
there you'll find separate schematic for each iteration
note - refer to schematic, Note on same can be misleading, I obviously forgot to delete them for SET and SIT
well, that beside spelling Babelfish with two "L"
there you'll find separate schematic for each iteration
note - refer to schematic, Note on same can be misleading, I obviously forgot to delete them for SET and SIT
well, that beside spelling Babelfish with two "L"
In ZM's World ookups are permanent thing
though, simple pic of your pcbs (few gens, but I took care of no change to previous parts nomenclature), should solve all dilemmas
last gen is having BSS170 cascode in place of upper zener above CCS and, yes, 12V zener bellow CCS ...... (so, just one 12V zener, not two)
now - protecting zeners for mosfet and SIT gates - anything from 5V6 to 12V will work there
though, if I sent you set of schematics, why looking for same in thread?
though, simple pic of your pcbs (few gens, but I took care of no change to previous parts nomenclature), should solve all dilemmas
last gen is having BSS170 cascode in place of upper zener above CCS and, yes, 12V zener bellow CCS ...... (so, just one 12V zener, not two)
now - protecting zeners for mosfet and SIT gates - anything from 5V6 to 12V will work there
though, if I sent you set of schematics, why looking for same in thread?
Attachments
Was just trying to figure out which one to follow. I think I figured it out, maybe I have the 2023 version which only has zd1,2,3. The schematics you just posted above are what I have. Sorry for the confusion I guess the older versions had ZD1,2,3,4(which you basically told me above, thanks again)
Zenmod, you included in my parts these nice little connectors. I have searched PC connectors and have yet to find ones like these. What are these called, I would like to order quantity. Maybe mouser/digikey not have? I will begin with Newark.
Much thanks in advance,
Russellc. 😺
Much thanks in advance,
Russellc. 😺
Attachments
Properly crimped is said to be more gas free connection than solder. I still solder."The best crimped connection is one that has been soldered..."
I only say it because of my own experience dealing with, and having to repair some so called "properly crimped" connections from the OE at my workplace (railway electronics). I haven't seen the failure a lot over the past twenty years of repairing thousands of units, but I have had to fix some of them for sure..
"I only say it because of my own experience dealing with, and having to repair some so called "properly crimped" connections from the OE at my workplace (railway electronics). I haven't seen the failure a lot over the past twenty years of repairing thousands of units, but I have had to fix some of them for sure.."
Oh I get it, but there are loads of bad crimpers out there, not where you want to scrimp. My other problem with crimp depends on what you crimped to. If it is a press fit deal, there's a service problem waiting to happen. That said, a properly done joint with a proper tool does create a gas free joint in a perfect world. Improper crimps no doubt lead to much service work. Same with solder joints that werent done properly.
I always grab crimp connector with needle nose, waive plastic end in stove flame and scrap off with butter knife. Solder and use heat shrink. I will see if I can find the article I spoke of. I bought this thing for the woofer section of one of X's speaker projects. It has 8 woofers per side, wired everywhich way and reversed phase hook up on half the drivers. Plenty of places for me to get a connection buggered. Once correct and working, solder joints all around.
I trust my solder work.
Russellc
Oh I get it, but there are loads of bad crimpers out there, not where you want to scrimp. My other problem with crimp depends on what you crimped to. If it is a press fit deal, there's a service problem waiting to happen. That said, a properly done joint with a proper tool does create a gas free joint in a perfect world. Improper crimps no doubt lead to much service work. Same with solder joints that werent done properly.
I always grab crimp connector with needle nose, waive plastic end in stove flame and scrap off with butter knife. Solder and use heat shrink. I will see if I can find the article I spoke of. I bought this thing for the woofer section of one of X's speaker projects. It has 8 woofers per side, wired everywhich way and reversed phase hook up on half the drivers. Plenty of places for me to get a connection buggered. Once correct and working, solder joints all around.
I trust my solder work.
Russellc
