Allegedly, my M4 screws, washers, and lock washers should be arriving this evening. Now I can drill and tap for mosfet mounting. Things should go much quicker then!
As to the HA power supply boards, I have 50 volt 33,000 uF caps, 28 volt transformer that will hopefully give 35 volt rails. All mosfet version.
I am wondering what value of resistor, resistance and wattage, is appropriate for this power supply. The pads are fairly small print/pads, and I think I can see something under the HA boards on some of the examples you gave. Is this some resistive contraption under boards?
Thanks,
Russellc
As to the HA power supply boards, I have 50 volt 33,000 uF caps, 28 volt transformer that will hopefully give 35 volt rails. All mosfet version.
I am wondering what value of resistor, resistance and wattage, is appropriate for this power supply. The pads are fairly small print/pads, and I think I can see something under the HA boards on some of the examples you gave. Is this some resistive contraption under boards?
Thanks,
Russellc
just take 0R1/5W, white cement wirewound
no resistive contraption, maybe few via islands are confusing
or - maybe you think of pictures where I've put hefty chokes beneath Cap Bank boards, converting it to CLC per rail
LuDEF thread, I think
no resistive contraption, maybe few via islands are confusing
or - maybe you think of pictures where I've put hefty chokes beneath Cap Bank boards, converting it to CLC per rail
LuDEF thread, I think
https://www.amazon.com/Cement-Resistor-Ceramic-Resistors-Wirewound/dp/B0BPR1L9J7?th=1&psc=1
This ought to do it.
Russellc
This ought to do it.
Russellc
Venders likely cheaper, but I will have these in hand tomorrow; trying to get this amp built!
Also have X's open baffle speaker project. Almost done there too. Couple pre amps (another DCG3 and my SE Iron Pre kit) also going on.
Reminds me, I need to order the chassis for Iron Pre from modushop.
Russellc
Also have X's open baffle speaker project. Almost done there too. Couple pre amps (another DCG3 and my SE Iron Pre kit) also going on.
Reminds me, I need to order the chassis for Iron Pre from modushop.
Russellc
Subscribed!
Chance is high that this will be my next poweramp build.
When checking the output voltage of my current amp (https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-front-end-bjt-ops.248028/page-8#post-6249192) when listening music, I noticed that I frequently reach 60Vpp. Need to go for the 35VDC rails. Speakers are 86dB
Chance is high that this will be my next poweramp build.
When checking the output voltage of my current amp (https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-front-end-bjt-ops.248028/page-8#post-6249192) when listening music, I noticed that I frequently reach 60Vpp. Need to go for the 35VDC rails. Speakers are 86dB
Amplifier boards all cleaned, power supply (HA) boards cleaned and mounted in chassis. All my m4 screws, washers and lock washers came,
so I am ready to drill and tap mounting holes for mosfets. I went with recommended M4 for threaded, if that doesnt work out I can go to the slightly larger size and drill through between fins. I see no reason tapped way will not work.
Russellc
so I am ready to drill and tap mounting holes for mosfets. I went with recommended M4 for threaded, if that doesnt work out I can go to the slightly larger size and drill through between fins. I see no reason tapped way will not work.
Russellc
Check out the trick, anti vibration feet. For what he's charging, it sure looks very nice!
As to Puck orientation, not seeing marker on case for D,G or S. For reasons that make no sense, puck has round mount hole and open slot on other. In my brain, seems like "hole" should be at top. I know, thats why I am having to ask! I said it made no sense...At least I have all the mounting holes drilled, tapped and cleaned up.
Russellc
Russellc
Attachments
datasheets are same thing as user manuals - why bother reading them before flipping power switch On ..........
No worry, power switch not yet wired! Holes to mount mosfets drilled and tapped, m4. All holes came out between fins, in case that method ever required, don't anticipate that being needed.mosfets mounted with goop, boards lightly tightened to mosfets. Transformer mounted.
HA boards stuffed ( except led and associated resistor ) and mounted.
Now for rectifier. Something nice that suits this amp. Someone posted pics of some big honking retifiers that sort of looked like pucks themselves. Might have been one of zenmods other amp threads, but I'm thinking it's this one.
Let's turn back to his build. I think they were quite expensive iirc. But they looked really cool.
Bubba
HA boards stuffed ( except led and associated resistor ) and mounted.
Now for rectifier. Something nice that suits this amp. Someone posted pics of some big honking retifiers that sort of looked like pucks themselves. Might have been one of zenmods other amp threads, but I'm thinking it's this one.
Let's turn back to his build. I think they were quite expensive iirc. But they looked really cool.
Bubba
Just came back. Saw your comment that they were ixy made also. I'm sure stock style like I always use would work too but those look cool.
Never saw comment if they needed additional heat sinking, guess not or would have said something.
I just felt a special puck amp was worth getting fancy ones.
Russellc
Never saw comment if they needed additional heat sinking, guess not or would have said something.
I just felt a special puck amp was worth getting fancy ones.
Russellc
you always need some heatsinking for rectifiers
safest place for them is on bottom plate, be it Al or Fe, in case of using Modushop base plate
Fe working good enough , due to area
thermal paste is welcome too
safest place for them is on bottom plate, be it Al or Fe, in case of using Modushop base plate
Fe working good enough , due to area
thermal paste is welcome too
I see several in "puck" style Fred's, fast with soft recovery. Then I started thinking about something read here about class A not liking " hi performance" rectifiers? Kind of silly but really like this style. If it doesn't sound better I can live with, but making it sound worse removes the utility. Really like the use of Puck style rectifiers, but I can get over it if necessary. 28 to 42 bucks a piece. But it's only one amp, and they really look cool.
Russellc
Russellc