Seemed a shame to just snip them off, this transformer will not be permanent. I also have the HA boards stuffed and ready and I bought 4 of the fancy pants bridges. I can just get it fired up quicker this way.. I will just order the dual Antek transformer now. But at least I know what to do with the extra ends of power transformer. If Antek is out of stock on what I need, I will go back to temporary Trandformer/PS until they are available. To the Antek site....
Russellc
Russellc
Question,... Have any of you measured how hot these amps run?
My SIT ( in a 5U/400 case ) smoked, really.. it smoked, and we think it was for lack of ventilation. It was on a rack shelf, opened on all sides but with barely an inch of clearance above and below it.
While the amp gets repaired, I increased the shelf height from 10" to 12". And I've been testing the heat profiles for a SissySIT and two Aleph 2s. The Sissy runs quite cool, the Alephs quite hotter. I've tried fans, ala ZM's babysitter.... and that lowers temps a bit.
When I get the 252SIT back, I intend to run some tests with both sides (top lid and heat sinks ) and hope the temps stay at no more than 55C on the shelf.
My SIT ( in a 5U/400 case ) smoked, really.. it smoked, and we think it was for lack of ventilation. It was on a rack shelf, opened on all sides but with barely an inch of clearance above and below it.
While the amp gets repaired, I increased the shelf height from 10" to 12". And I've been testing the heat profiles for a SissySIT and two Aleph 2s. The Sissy runs quite cool, the Alephs quite hotter. I've tried fans, ala ZM's babysitter.... and that lowers temps a bit.
When I get the 252SIT back, I intend to run some tests with both sides (top lid and heat sinks ) and hope the temps stay at no more than 55C on the shelf.
I agree with you. My First Watt clone stuff has nothing above it. It goes straight up. Without clearance the sink likely isnt at it best efficiency.
I would think 6 to 8 inches? I bet The Pass First Watt owners manual would give a recomendation surely. These things can run hot. Sitting slightly elevated in the open, I have no overheating trouble. Some get darn warm even in the open. I even notice a slight cooling difference from when one of my FW clones is sitting on the chassis feet on floor, and when elevated a couple inches. I assume from less air flow from the bottom?
Russellc
I would think 6 to 8 inches? I bet The Pass First Watt owners manual would give a recomendation surely. These things can run hot. Sitting slightly elevated in the open, I have no overheating trouble. Some get darn warm even in the open. I even notice a slight cooling difference from when one of my FW clones is sitting on the chassis feet on floor, and when elevated a couple inches. I assume from less air flow from the bottom?
Russellc
Five inches would not be practical... that would require a rack with 14 inches... Remember the sides are all open...
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/babysitter-for-papas-koan.186554/page-7
The bias shall not be changed... sound and smoke free behavior are primary... Otherwise I'd sell everything and get a Bose Bar.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/babysitter-for-papas-koan.186554/page-7
The bias shall not be changed... sound and smoke free behavior are primary... Otherwise I'd sell everything and get a Bose Bar.
Okay okay. Ahem.... Bose... Let me talk you away from the ledge. 😬
Try three inches and see what happens. It may be alright. Pass has been known to let his amps cook at 65C so...
I would just get a thermometer and keep an eye on it. Maybe your idea of using a babysitter will do the trick.
Try three inches and see what happens. It may be alright. Pass has been known to let his amps cook at 65C so...
I would just get a thermometer and keep an eye on it. Maybe your idea of using a babysitter will do the trick.
I like at least 2 or 3 under the amp, and more above, preferably unlimited to the ceiling! Flow needs to be as unrestricted as is practicable for good bottom to top air flow. All that is really hard on caps and outputs, but they say the hotter the better the sound!....Okay okay. Ahem.... Bose... Let me talk you away from the ledge. 😬
Try three inches and see what happens. It may be alright. Pass has been known to let his amps cook at 65C so...
Russellc
Subject: Motor Run Cap Fetish
I have been watching this thread (yes, I am also building a copy of Mighty ZM's XA252) for some time and there has been occasional discussion on motor run cap, which I have noted but not looked into too deeply. Now that an un-named company is suspected of spreading Audiofoolery with chassis loads of them I was hoping that the people in the know here could help enlighten me and/or send me a link to an explanation. Thanks.
I have been watching this thread (yes, I am also building a copy of Mighty ZM's XA252) for some time and there has been occasional discussion on motor run cap, which I have noted but not looked into too deeply. Now that an un-named company is suspected of spreading Audiofoolery with chassis loads of them I was hoping that the people in the know here could help enlighten me and/or send me a link to an explanation. Thanks.
bypass caps are welcome in plenty of positions where main capacitance part is electrolytic
now, motor-run caps are big enough to serve as main in tube constructions, while in sand-box they're perfect for bypass duty
by default, these are of proper quality, taking in account their main purpose - no bad cap allowed
now, motor-run caps are big enough to serve as main in tube constructions, while in sand-box they're perfect for bypass duty
by default, these are of proper quality, taking in account their main purpose - no bad cap allowed
Is 70uF the recommended size to get? I see most use four of these motor runs.
Are the just on the tail end of the existing power supply?
Russellc