can you edit your profile so we can see where are you living (Country/State)?
ACA: Amp Camp Amp - ACA
ACA: Amp Camp Amp - ACA
if you ask around, I can bet that someone near enough is having ACA
double good - make new friend, try an amp
if not - build ACA
every proper house need at least one
double good - make new friend, try an amp
if not - build ACA
every proper house need at least one
how many watts do I need at 110db sensitivity lol!? I don't know how to judge these amps vs driver...do I want rms power at max volume? Do I need rms power through out playback to avoid thd with tubes? The ACA doesn't look like a bad choice at all....how would you compare this the tiny tube build?
I believe ACA will cover all your needs, speaking about watts and quality of those
what I can't tell, and you need to determine - is that going to suit your taste?
some people around compared their own ACA with their 300B amps, and ACA did well
what I can't tell, and you need to determine - is that going to suit your taste?
some people around compared their own ACA with their 300B amps, and ACA did well
I like how you are always around, you must be as obsessed as I am about audio lol!
I just was clued in to an important factor...the horn I am looking at using falls of in the Hf....to compensate I have to cut with a shelf some -10db......putting the the un altered response at about 88db...so that would require more amps that I originally assume in order to reach max output goals of 115db. at 110db sens about 5-8 watts would do it...but at 88db sens I need more....I could boost the input signal after eq but then I'd have issues with thd above the shelf filter where the response is mechanically insensitive.
First I need to figure out (again) how many watts to aim for...I think I just removed tubes as an option for clean output...
I just was clued in to an important factor...the horn I am looking at using falls of in the Hf....to compensate I have to cut with a shelf some -10db......putting the the un altered response at about 88db...so that would require more amps that I originally assume in order to reach max output goals of 115db. at 110db sens about 5-8 watts would do it...but at 88db sens I need more....I could boost the input signal after eq but then I'd have issues with thd above the shelf filter where the response is mechanically insensitive.
First I need to figure out (again) how many watts to aim for...I think I just removed tubes as an option for clean output...
better to introduce supertweet than to compensate drekload of db with sheer power
not because of power, simply that driver - if falling that much - is not equipped for these frequencies
natural Newman shelving is 6db/oct and that is what I'm finding normal for Eq, be it passive or active
however, you probably know better what you're dealing with
not because of power, simply that driver - if falling that much - is not equipped for these frequencies
natural Newman shelving is 6db/oct and that is what I'm finding normal for Eq, be it passive or active
however, you probably know better what you're dealing with
its typical of the type of horn (tractrix)...The Axi2050 is definitely "equipped" to handle 300hz to 20khz (if you want loading down low to allow proper low end extension this is what you have to deal with up top I think)....If I want to use this type of horn its what I have to deal with....at 18.9 sens is 90db so I guess I'll start there? sounds like I might need 110watts unless you know something I don't.
Attachments
Last edited:
2W 3db
4W 6db
8W 9db
16W 12db
32W 15db
etc.
though, better to leave that contemplation where entire speaker project is (or it'll be ) covered, not in this thread
I have no slightest idea of your project - are you going to compensate in +, or you going to compensate in - ........ and what are other components
4W 6db
8W 9db
16W 12db
32W 15db
etc.
though, better to leave that contemplation where entire speaker project is (or it'll be ) covered, not in this thread
I have no slightest idea of your project - are you going to compensate in +, or you going to compensate in - ........ and what are other components
A shelf filter cutting about -10db gets me to something around +/2.5 db FR... from there I only expect a mixture of cuts n boost of 1-3db if any at all...to try and iron out the FR as flat as possible
The midrange is an AE15m....
Now that I think about it that filter might only work with the response I took measuring at the mouth...this latest measurement at 1 meter looks like a another filter, maybe a really low q peak filter to invert the response to something flatter will do....either way, its not that hard to get there.
Am I supposed to try and keep all playback within rms? vs peak?
115db is the max system goal but I don't think I actually need 115db from the Axi....maybe 128 watts max? where would I aim for rms power?
The midrange is an AE15m....
Now that I think about it that filter might only work with the response I took measuring at the mouth...this latest measurement at 1 meter looks like a another filter, maybe a really low q peak filter to invert the response to something flatter will do....either way, its not that hard to get there.
Am I supposed to try and keep all playback within rms? vs peak?
115db is the max system goal but I don't think I actually need 115db from the Axi....maybe 128 watts max? where would I aim for rms power?
Last edited:
if you have shelf filter cutting = to get you so-so flat , then there is no need for further rising equalization, needing extra power for that
though - if your intention to cover that broad spectrum with one driver- one amp, then investing in beast of an amp is cunning plan
try searching around for near located Greedy Boy - finding one of more powerful ( 15-20W) Papamps and trying that , so you'll know more, in which direction/flavor is best to go
as I said - I don't like idea of selling you any kit of mine, without you having slightest idea what you need, want and prefer
though - if your intention to cover that broad spectrum with one driver- one amp, then investing in beast of an amp is cunning plan
try searching around for near located Greedy Boy - finding one of more powerful ( 15-20W) Papamps and trying that , so you'll know more, in which direction/flavor is best to go
as I said - I don't like idea of selling you any kit of mine, without you having slightest idea what you need, want and prefer
Last edited:
I want and prefer what ever is going to get me closer to scientific definition of sound quality ie, whatever results in the most accurate reproduction of the signal....basically I am aiming for technically objective , not humanly subjective.
Last edited:
"I want and prefer what ever is going to get me closer to scientific definition of sound quality ie, whatever results in the most accurate reproduction of the signal....basically I am aiming for technically objective , not humanly subjective."
With this statement it might be that a Pass designed amp is not what you are asking for.
Pass design will control distortion to give a pleasing sound.
Not a technical minimal distortion at any price design.
With this statement it might be that a Pass designed amp is not what you are asking for.
Pass design will control distortion to give a pleasing sound.
Not a technical minimal distortion at any price design.
then - solution is Pass Labs XA25, if SE input is allowed
or, in case of preferring DIY - Babelfish XA252, once it hits Swap Meet , if Bal input is desirable
Babelfish M25 as is, is still Little Kitten, comparing to both of these; it'll be sort of complemented soon with Plethora of Pinjatas amp (practically B. XA252 with IRFP outputs ........ or B. M25 with active FE) but that one is still little Kitten
or, in case of preferring DIY - Babelfish XA252, once it hits Swap Meet , if Bal input is desirable
Babelfish M25 as is, is still Little Kitten, comparing to both of these; it'll be sort of complemented soon with Plethora of Pinjatas amp (practically B. XA252 with IRFP outputs ........ or B. M25 with active FE) but that one is still little Kitten
As ColinA123 said, many Pass and First Watt amps are designed to have a certain "flavor". If lowest distortion (most accurate reproduction of the signal by definition) is what you really want, then I'd suggest taking a look at the link below also given your desire to also reach 115dB listening levels with an 88dB / 1W / 1m speaker.
ZM will definitely steer you in the correct direction re: what will best fit that criteria within the Pass / First Watt inspired line of amplifier clones and his kits. They're all beautiful, but I doubt any will match the "accuracy" of the amp linked below. From a technically objective POV, Tom shows what I'd consider the most complete measurement package / specs for his amps of any manufacturer. You know precisely what you're getting. I'm certainly not trying to discourage you from a Pass inspired amp (I have lots of them and love them all), but none of them are likely what you say you want. Give it a look.
Modulus-686: 360W power amplifier achieving -120dB (0.0001%) THD – Neurochrome
Hi Camplo
You may find it easier to start looking at things from the other direction (working from lower frequencies up rather than high frequencies down). The AE15M will be your limiting factor power-wise. Do you plan on baffle step or not, and how many dBs? Once you have made these choices, you will have better idea of how many watts you need. Maybe more than one amps depending on mood 🙂. Then moving up in frequency, if you aim for accuracy you will want the transition from the mid woofer to the lower range of the compression driver to be smooth and flat to at least 1000 kHz. Then you can adjust the presence region (2000 to 3000 kHz) to taste. Flat is more accurate but a small hump there does not necessarily hurt as it does improve "liveliness". Then you can choose whether you feel you need to add an extra tweeter or not. From a cursory look at your curves I think you "might" be able to pull off a two-way design that has a good response up to 14kHz or so on axis (which is excellent IMO). However be aware that the high frequencies will be highly directional out of the tractrix horn: the system will sound best in the sweet spot and a bit dull elsewhere in the room. Directivity is a choice: some like, some don't. It is like amp choice. Clever ZM pointed out to some kind of XA25 (original or greedy boys derivative). This is a "truth teller" from what I read, so a safe starting point, especially to tune crossover. Later on you can play with flea amps for fun.
You may find it easier to start looking at things from the other direction (working from lower frequencies up rather than high frequencies down). The AE15M will be your limiting factor power-wise. Do you plan on baffle step or not, and how many dBs? Once you have made these choices, you will have better idea of how many watts you need. Maybe more than one amps depending on mood 🙂. Then moving up in frequency, if you aim for accuracy you will want the transition from the mid woofer to the lower range of the compression driver to be smooth and flat to at least 1000 kHz. Then you can adjust the presence region (2000 to 3000 kHz) to taste. Flat is more accurate but a small hump there does not necessarily hurt as it does improve "liveliness". Then you can choose whether you feel you need to add an extra tweeter or not. From a cursory look at your curves I think you "might" be able to pull off a two-way design that has a good response up to 14kHz or so on axis (which is excellent IMO). However be aware that the high frequencies will be highly directional out of the tractrix horn: the system will sound best in the sweet spot and a bit dull elsewhere in the room. Directivity is a choice: some like, some don't. It is like amp choice. Clever ZM pointed out to some kind of XA25 (original or greedy boys derivative). This is a "truth teller" from what I read, so a safe starting point, especially to tune crossover. Later on you can play with flea amps for fun.
Last edited: