or, rather, using same proper speakers, all the time 
though, all of my amps are sounding nice even through small Dynaudio drek; go figure
though, all of my amps are sounding nice even through small Dynaudio drek; go figure
2 channels are up and running, +/-24V supply, 1,5A bias, offest ~10mV, load 8Ohm, heatsink ~60°C
So far so good, but
blue=input signal
Same on both channels, parts selection and soldering well done.
R12 and R13 are soldered by you on bottom side showing 1000. That´s 100R right?
So far so good, but
blue=input signal
Same on both channels, parts selection and soldering well done.
R12 and R13 are soldered by you on bottom side showing 1000. That´s 100R right?
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where exactly measured?
as per protocol for smd resistors, read as 100*10^0, so yes, 100R
can' t see split washers on output parts screws
now, screws for energy points; hope you soldered screw heads on bottom side; that's how clever guys did it, as I saw in various professional gear
helper flux is handy for that
above the tranis
thats only for testing da thing. I´ll solder proper wires when everything is fine.
I miss some gain...
What size fastener did you use?
M3 wouldn’t fit without enlarging the hole which would remove the through hole copper. If that’s that’s the case, I wouldn’t solder wire in those locations, keep the fasteners and solder them in place as ZM suggested.
M3 wouldn’t fit without enlarging the hole which would remove the through hole copper. If that’s that’s the case, I wouldn’t solder wire in those locations, keep the fasteners and solder them in place as ZM suggested.
It´s M2 and fits perfectly trough hole 😉
But as already said, this is only for testing.
Gain is the issue not the fasteners...
But as already said, this is only for testing.
Gain is the issue not the fasteners...
I was addressing the connection fastener method, nothing to do with gain.
Good to know that M2 fits without modification👍🏻
Good to know that M2 fits without modification👍🏻
hope you get it as it is prescribed
A=1+(330/(33+33))
if that is the case, and no reason not to be, just preamplify your signal
Did you see the measurements from post #283?
Input Vpp ~6V
Output Vpp ~4V
hope you get it as it is prescribed
A=1+(330/(33+33))
I did
Input Vpp ~6V
Output Vpp ~4V
hope you get it as it is prescribed
A=1+(330/(33+33))
I did
if every part is in place, with proper value, and you're able to set Iq and offset, I don't know how it's possible to get wrong gain
you did mention smd resistors soldered by me - those are R12 and R13; circuit can even go without them , they're here just for very unlikely case of TP2 wiper loosing contact
just for fun, what's voltage across R6?
you did mention smd resistors soldered by me - those are R12 and R13; circuit can even go without them , they're here just for very unlikely case of TP2 wiper loosing contact
just for fun, what's voltage across R6?
V R6=1,09V -> 3,2mA trough J1, T1
I used 5k6 for R10, that´s what I had. V R10 is 19,4V -> 3,4mA trough PC817
I used 5k6 for R10, that´s what I had. V R10 is 19,4V -> 3,4mA trough PC817
Have you tried to check using a DMM the RMS values from input/output. What I am after is if there is a x10 "misunderstanding" from scope "yellow" signal?
if puzzled, always try with another instrument
try with DVM, input and output
edit: Meper was faster
try with DVM, input and output
edit: Meper was faster
I was contemplating x10 for previous pic, but I didn't found logic in that, so didn't asked
so, Gremlins
so, Gremlins
