6L6, you beat me to the finish line. Nice work. Looks great. My "assistants" (4 years old and 5 months old) are a little less helpful.
I am still trying to work out a PSU issue. Started it up w/ a bulb tester today and the bulb stayed bright. Not good, right?
With the bulb tester hooked up measured about 1 volt at the output of the diode bridge and .75V at the output of the regulator board. So the reg board is doing it's job but I can't tell why the bulb is not dimming. It's a 60W bulb.
Is the draw just to low to dim a 60 watt bulb? Is it possible everything is OK?
I guess I am going to have to rip the whole thing apart and test just the transformer w/the bulb tester and if it's OK then see if it's putting out 24V (it's a 24V transformer). Then I'll test each board independently. Pain in the ***.
Also, 6L6, I noticed you got a "cyc" setup on your workbench. You a photographer or do you just use it for better light to see small parts better?
I am still trying to work out a PSU issue. Started it up w/ a bulb tester today and the bulb stayed bright. Not good, right?
With the bulb tester hooked up measured about 1 volt at the output of the diode bridge and .75V at the output of the regulator board. So the reg board is doing it's job but I can't tell why the bulb is not dimming. It's a 60W bulb.
Is the draw just to low to dim a 60 watt bulb? Is it possible everything is OK?
I guess I am going to have to rip the whole thing apart and test just the transformer w/the bulb tester and if it's OK then see if it's putting out 24V (it's a 24V transformer). Then I'll test each board independently. Pain in the ***.
Also, 6L6, I noticed you got a "cyc" setup on your workbench. You a photographer or do you just use it for better light to see small parts better?
Yes, not good.
Something is very wrong - there are 60W being drawn through the bulb, and it's lighting up. Luckily, as it's in series, it will keep the voltage really low on the far end and keep things from burning up in your PSU.
Yes, it is. But the right thing to do.
Both, but mainly for the photos.
I got the PSU up and running. Finally. I must admit that I had the secondary pairs mixed up. Stupid mistake.
Only thing is the voltages for the + and - are not even. I've got 33V after the diode bridge and 30V on the output of the positive PSU and 32V on the output of the negative PSU. I am using resistors, not a trimpot in the lm317/337 regs.
Does this indicate the LM337 in the negative PSU is fried? Or is a this an acceptable range of variation?
Only thing is the voltages for the + and - are not even. I've got 33V after the diode bridge and 30V on the output of the positive PSU and 32V on the output of the negative PSU. I am using resistors, not a trimpot in the lm317/337 regs.
Does this indicate the LM337 in the negative PSU is fried? Or is a this an acceptable range of variation?
No, it indicates the voltage after the diodes is higher on one side then the other.
Adjust with slightly higher and low values or insert and adjustable trimmer, remover it, measure it and insert same value in fixed resistor. You can also leave in the trimmer, periodically checking for drift.
On the trimmer, solder adjustable lead to one of the others, so that there are only two leads.
Thx for that link vdp_nenna.... bookmarked
As Jim indicated I just had to adjust my resistors, currently I have R1 at 180 and R2 at 2.5k so I can drop R1 to 130r and I should be good to go. Caps are 35V. I'll try it this weekend. Thx Jim !
How are your sinks coping with the heat Jim? when I had my BA3 FE in my F4 chassis they were pretty hot...probably aggrevated by the heat from F4.
To be honest, I never liked the B1.
The BA-3 pre, in it's current form (Full gain) is amazing. I've only listened to it on my bench, which currently has Amp Camp Amps driving Zaph Audio ZV5 speakers. Input is just from the headphone jack of my old MacBook.
The long story made short is that having the BA-3 in the circuit sounds better than without. I would guess the reason is that the ACA like the output Z of the BA-3 better than the MacBook. But it's really nice to have something improve the system by being there, rather than being removed.
Once I get a chance I will re-install the F4 PCB into my big chassis and see how it all works for it's intended purpose.