You are right. That's not gong to work as described. I think the easiest will be to place R1 on the pot or input jack and wire the pot into the R2 pads as best one can.
A little progress today. The most important thing was getting to my buddy's shop and using his mill to cut the hole for the IEC connector. The back panel needs only to be wired.
The transformer is a 120VA 20+20V Shielded Antek. Because of this I will use a LM317/337 regulator from TubeCad. Also the rotary AC switch and selector are from TubeCad. Very, very nice pieces. There are a number of good 'building blocks' available there. both low- and high-voltage.
The Attenuator is a series stepped Goldpoint with Dale RN60 resistors.
I have yet to make the final order to Mouser for components, that is why the preamp PCB is not currently installed.
The transformer is a 120VA 20+20V Shielded Antek. Because of this I will use a LM317/337 regulator from TubeCad. Also the rotary AC switch and selector are from TubeCad. Very, very nice pieces. There are a number of good 'building blocks' available there. both low- and high-voltage.
The Attenuator is a series stepped Goldpoint with Dale RN60 resistors.
I have yet to make the final order to Mouser for components, that is why the preamp PCB is not currently installed.
I believe - nothing wrong with placing selector and attenuator all the way back , with extending shafts to front ?
Neville -- Galaxy 388 (3mm Front) - Compact with Quasi Heatsinks - Chassis
Vince - I'm going to try placing the R1 resistor in the output of the pot (attenuator). Probably right at the PCB. It's a gatestopper shared by both input Jfets, so hopefully should work. I will have photos when I wire it.
Choky - I don't have the necessary hardware for the shaft extension and internal switch/potentiometer mounts and such. I do like the idea, however. 🙂
Vince - I'm going to try placing the R1 resistor in the output of the pot (attenuator). Probably right at the PCB. It's a gatestopper shared by both input Jfets, so hopefully should work. I will have photos when I wire it.
Choky - I don't have the necessary hardware for the shaft extension and internal switch/potentiometer mounts and such. I do like the idea, however. 🙂
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Good place for extension shafts, volume knobs, etc:
Audio Catalog
That's what I am using. Shipping was pretty quick to the US (they are in HK) and the prices are great.
Audio Catalog
That's what I am using. Shipping was pretty quick to the US (they are in HK) and the prices are great.
Attachments
shaft - plain M6 screw rods - any hardware store
mounting element for att and selector to bottom plate - piece of Al angle
wanked pots for shaft sleeves
plastic or rubber hose for joining extending rods to pot and selector
mounting element for att and selector to bottom plate - piece of Al angle
wanked pots for shaft sleeves
plastic or rubber hose for joining extending rods to pot and selector
Selector all wired up.
Looking clean and organized - it's easy when the important part of the preamp isn't installed.
I like those coaxial cables, what are they? Don't be shy you always do a clean and organized job! 🙂
sweet and short = 0.1mm - either foil or wire
when short , no need for twisting , so naked silvered copper is good enough
however - as I wrote earlier to you , if CAT is your poison , I have no objection ....... it's almost thin enough
when short , no need for twisting , so naked silvered copper is good enough
however - as I wrote earlier to you , if CAT is your poison , I have no objection ....... it's almost thin enough
