BA-3 Amplifier illustrated build guide

At first I mounted them just above the sink vertical centerline. Then I tried the exact positioning that 6L6 used in the guide. At same dissipation, the temp at the top of the sinks was a bit lower using 6L6s way. Relevant? Dunno really. I was in the end most happy mounting them at the lowest point. Wrt them faced up or down (your original question) I would not worry about that (like the master 6L6 suggests).
 
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So, this is starting to look like an amp… So many things I wasn’t expecting, so many lessons learned. So much still to do…

I welcome feedback at this stage. Anything that seems like I’m going off in a bad direction, etc. I’m already thinking of moving the power supply boards back a bit.
 

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So, this is starting to look like an amp… So many things I wasn’t expecting, so many lessons learned. So much still to do…

I welcome feedback at this stage. Anything that seems like I’m going off in a bad direction, etc. I’m already thinking of moving the power supply boards back a bit.

Looking good. Consider thermal paste under your rectifiers, and torque them appropriately to approx 2Nm, though not critical. I also see you split your PSU boards, perhaps making it more difficult to get a quiet audio gnd. Though, Cubicincher himself has done this and succeded, so you’re probably OK.

Also, although practical for a number of reasons, putting the front end on the front panel has some disadvantages. One of them is long runs of input wire. I would twist them all tight, both channels, and run them together along chassis bottom and not split up until at the front end :)

Good luck!

Ie: looking good :cheers:

Andy
 
Is running the input wires close to the transformer not a concern? My first idea was to run them along the sides, above the output boards, or possibly straight over the top, taking the shortest possible path. I assume twisting both sets of input wires together reduces possibilities for interference?
 
You are correct and I was not clear in previous post.

Short as possible=not nescessarily the best solution, you need to keep them away from all the noisy and magnetical parts: rectifiers, tranny and AC wires.

I recommend bottom of chassis, though trying and testing probably the best way to determine what is most quiet.

See hifisonix.com. Bonsai has made a huge PDF/PPT, and an example of signal wiring is there.

In short, twist them together near one of the inputs, then follow outer chassis edges either along top - as you plan - or bottom, keeping in mind where the noisy parts are. And all four wires twisted together. Then you can try one run at either side of chassis, and see if there is a difference.

But check that article, good stuff :)

Regards,
Andy
 
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Thanks for the reference!

“ Keep input connectors right next to each other and insulated from the chassis. Bond the signal returns together. Use a single RFI 2-5nF cap to the chassis right at the inputs”

So what he’s suggesting is to connect the L and R input grounds to each other, and connecting that shared connection to the chassis via a 2-5 nF capacitor? I can do that… just want to make sure I understand him correctly.
 
Thanks for the reference!

“ Keep input connectors right next to each other and insulated from the chassis. Bond the signal returns together. Use a single RFI 2-5nF cap to the chassis right at the inputs”

So what he’s suggesting is to connect the L and R input grounds to each other, and connecting that shared connection to the chassis via a 2-5 nF capacitor? I can do that… just want to make sure I understand him correctly.

I would not sweat that right now. If you have noise issues, and troubleshooting uncovers there is a need for a cap, then do it. For now, I would just keep it simple :)