I have a chassis with a filtered AC inlet. Would the B1K perform well with a 24VDC regulated power module (IRM-10-24) and DC filter kit from the diyAudio store?
In short...
Last but not least, and that's just me, I would rather go for an external SMPS than putting it in the B1K chassis. The filter though can go inside. Just blank that AC inlet and put a DC plug instead 🙂
Good luck
Claude
- Your filtered AC inlet won't be required here
- whereas your linked 24VDC module seems to be fine re ampere need when the B1K is working nominaly, it is difficult to say if it will work at all at start-up or if its specs are fine re ripple etc. or even re sound. In fact, it is true that Papa left quite a margin re PS needs, but on the other side his suggestion or better are a proven path and who knows how much can be taken away from that margin...
- Whatever the SMPS you go for, provided it is within its specs (the case here with B1K), I am quite confident that Mark's excellent filter will be a bonus. After numerous tries in various applications, I have yet to find a single case where it performed negatively...
Last but not least, and that's just me, I would rather go for an external SMPS than putting it in the B1K chassis. The filter though can go inside. Just blank that AC inlet and put a DC plug instead 🙂
Good luck
Claude
Thanks for the input. The filtered inlet is already part of the chassis; unless it's doing harm I'll leave it in place. I think a 10W PSU is sufficient because the recommended "wall warts" are around the same rating (24V * 0.5A = 12W). Whether having the SMPS inside the chassis (as opposed to external) will introduce noise in the B1K circuit is a good question.
I belive Claude wanted to point out that some smps may throttle when caps in the circuit start charging. So it may not start up at all.
I have 2200uf on all big caps on board, and i have had no issues with wall wart meanwell, nor with 25w rs meanwell, but that may not translate to your converter. Trial and error is your friend/enemy. And yes, if it isn't an integrated build with an amp, i suggest leaving the psu outside of the enclosure, starting with the mains safety, and you don't want to ground your board to the mains ground (via case).
I have 2200uf on all big caps on board, and i have had no issues with wall wart meanwell, nor with 25w rs meanwell, but that may not translate to your converter. Trial and error is your friend/enemy. And yes, if it isn't an integrated build with an amp, i suggest leaving the psu outside of the enclosure, starting with the mains safety, and you don't want to ground your board to the mains ground (via case).
Yes, charging those 1000uF caps on the B1K board may be an issue. From what I'm reading the Meanwell IRM modules can deal with up to 470uF or so without issues.
@slk23 I don’t think having the PSU brick inside the chassis will cause much trouble. I would keep the filtered IEC, it’s beneficial both to the MeanWell, and to the rest of your system as it will help keep spurious SMPS noise from going back down through mains.
As Claude says, there may be an issue on startup depending on how much current the power supply can deliver at power-on without triggering the hiccup mode, but if it works, it works and it doesn't matter. The P089ZB filter is always a good thing when using an SMPS, but can exacerbate the startup. Again, just try it and see if it works, if it does, awesome.
As Claude says, there may be an issue on startup depending on how much current the power supply can deliver at power-on without triggering the hiccup mode, but if it works, it works and it doesn't matter. The P089ZB filter is always a good thing when using an SMPS, but can exacerbate the startup. Again, just try it and see if it works, if it does, awesome.
My B1-K final build is complete.
I wanted to be able to output to a headphone amp whilst retaining my favoured negative phase harmonic profile, so I sourced a pair of mic input transformers and used them to correct the phase inversion inherent in the circuit design, as others have done.
I also used Claude's suggested values for polyprop output caps.
It sounds terrific, I'm so pleased - there's no hum or noise.
The case was donated by a friend, surplus from his research lab; I quite like the retro industrial vibe.
The trafos came from Rex Halfhide at RCH Audio Engineering, in Essex, England - he's got plenty more. He says they measure better than the equivalent Jensens.
This is the first thing I've built - it's been a ride. Thanks everyone.
I know it’s apples to oranges and there are so many variables but has anyone compared a B1K to a DHT preamp?
That’s why I said there are so many variables….
I have never heard a DHT preamp, never built one; but I am considering changing both those things.
Wanted to get some high level feelings, buzz words, experience, etc. 🤓
I have never heard a DHT preamp, never built one; but I am considering changing both those things.
Wanted to get some high level feelings, buzz words, experience, etc. 🤓
aha ...... you want that
no worries - whatever you build - B1K ........ or DHT preamp, you'll end up with Nirvana, worldpeace, allpplhappy .......
just build anything for start ...... most likely you'll be happy enough to enjoy your music, while building next thing, for fun and joy
no worries - whatever you build - B1K ........ or DHT preamp, you'll end up with Nirvana, worldpeace, allpplhappy .......
just build anything for start ...... most likely you'll be happy enough to enjoy your music, while building next thing, for fun and joy
Good day to all the diyers all round the world. I am a newby here and i am glad to report to Admiral Nelson that it was no Trafalgar for the Frenchie; it worked
perferctly once in power. This Nutub preamp is a killer. First the most feared microphonics disturbance has been over killed by using under the Nutube a Moongel drum dampening pad & on bottom & upper case 2mm foam stucked with thin carpet tape. Can hardly hear it when i tap hard on it and no ringing.
It is a perfect match with my Sun Audio se 6V6 amp. At first i tried it with the wallwart PS but as i missed to order the special smps filter it sounded a little harsh
on my wideband speakers (Supravox 165LB). This morning i tried it with my linear power supply 2*12V 3.3A bridged and then no more harshness, fully transparent, dynamic with a well scaled image. It really makes my source shining "like diamond" (Denon dcd-a110).
Many thanks to Mister Nelson Pass; his preamp is a real bona fide . My schiit Jothuneim 1st edit sound a little dull compared.
These are my first impressions, shall some pictures once i have found out how to... Best wishes to everyone.
perferctly once in power. This Nutub preamp is a killer. First the most feared microphonics disturbance has been over killed by using under the Nutube a Moongel drum dampening pad & on bottom & upper case 2mm foam stucked with thin carpet tape. Can hardly hear it when i tap hard on it and no ringing.
It is a perfect match with my Sun Audio se 6V6 amp. At first i tried it with the wallwart PS but as i missed to order the special smps filter it sounded a little harsh
on my wideband speakers (Supravox 165LB). This morning i tried it with my linear power supply 2*12V 3.3A bridged and then no more harshness, fully transparent, dynamic with a well scaled image. It really makes my source shining "like diamond" (Denon dcd-a110).
Many thanks to Mister Nelson Pass; his preamp is a real bona fide . My schiit Jothuneim 1st edit sound a little dull compared.
These are my first impressions, shall some pictures once i have found out how to... Best wishes to everyone.