An all-linear supply would have its own complications and would take more space.
I think perhaps you have not personally experienced a diyaudio store B1K chassis? It's spacious for the B1K board but as soon as you start adding things, suddenly it's not. My chassis will hold the B1K, the triple power supply with filters, and a third board to hold relay input and output controls with delay, a Mute circuit, and a 12v trigger. Space is at a premium and the shape of the boards is not flexible, they have to fit around the B1K board. That's why this board is only 1.15 inches wide.
If you try to include an entire linear PS in the chassis there is no way. If you put the transformer outside the case that's additional complication, a new and bigger power connector and added heat in the chassis and not at all my preference because I like small and elegant and functional. I choose to use the single voltage 24V smps wall wart per Nelson's design, and that choice drives this solution.
Another B1 Korg is born! I put a smps filter in, and used a Pete Millet vibration mounting kit in the build. This one doesn’t have the microphonics problem I was worried about. I don’t know if it’s the tube itself, the mounting kit, or both.
I used my Akitika signal generator, Focusrite scarlett solo, and REW software to measure distortion profiles at 1kHz and 1V. I found the null point and ran up and down to 1.5% positive and negative phase for both channels, then set it for 1.3% negative.
Once again the DiYAudio build guide is FANTASTIC. This is a fun project build and sounds quite nice!
I used my Akitika signal generator, Focusrite scarlett solo, and REW software to measure distortion profiles at 1kHz and 1V. I found the null point and ran up and down to 1.5% positive and negative phase for both channels, then set it for 1.3% negative.
Once again the DiYAudio build guide is FANTASTIC. This is a fun project build and sounds quite nice!
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Hi everyone, hoping someone has come across and worked this one out.
I'd like to know how to make my own J113 transistor sets or Q1 and Q2 and how to select the correct R1 value.
What idss is needed and how do I calculate it, and how does that effect R1 and the best way to calculate that also.
I have a bought set of j113 with a korg Nutube.
But I plan to experiment with some DM160 tubes also and would like to be able to make my own buffer sets. And not just copy the values I have in my set already if possible.
I'd like to understand this more.
Thanks in advance
I'd like to know how to make my own J113 transistor sets or Q1 and Q2 and how to select the correct R1 value.
What idss is needed and how do I calculate it, and how does that effect R1 and the best way to calculate that also.
I have a bought set of j113 with a korg Nutube.
But I plan to experiment with some DM160 tubes also and would like to be able to make my own buffer sets. And not just copy the values I have in my set already if possible.
I'd like to understand this more.
Thanks in advance
ROTLOL... now we got to get those test points to the back panel, with a switch selector in the front and an old fashioned bakelite calibrated VU meter.
YOU DID PUT THE TEST POINTS...
Awesome..... AWESOME.
Might have to pack that Korg Nutube so UPS won't wreck it....
How do you think it'll compare with my Conrad Johnson PV9 with the full boat Teflon cap upgrade?
I can’t see clearly from the picture but it looks like T7&T8 connect to the same binding post. Is it OK to have them connected together like that?
I’m just asking….
I’m just asking….
Looking at the schematics... T7 (and T8) are between Q1 and Q2... right before an output cap and the resistor bridge to the output. So this is the signal output before the AC coupling.
If I were to short T7 and T8 I would be combining both L and R channels. I imagine there might be effects on Left and Right Q1/Q2 but since we're summing the signal....
Perhaps the connection should be made after the cap, between the 100 and 33.2K ohm resistors?
If I were to short T7 and T8 I would be combining both L and R channels. I imagine there might be effects on Left and Right Q1/Q2 but since we're summing the signal....
Perhaps the connection should be made after the cap, between the 100 and 33.2K ohm resistors?
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I know, I know.....
So the 'mono' switch should be a short between the 332K resistor ladder at the input of Q1 ( the other Q1... I don't know they published schematics reuse the names...).
That would keep the input source from seeing the short (behind a cap and a 1K resistor).
I think I'll keep it pristine...
So the 'mono' switch should be a short between the 332K resistor ladder at the input of Q1 ( the other Q1... I don't know they published schematics reuse the names...).
That would keep the input source from seeing the short (behind a cap and a 1K resistor).
I think I'll keep it pristine...
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I only stream music. The streaming device I use I can go into the audio-settings and set it to "mono" or "left" or "right" and then of course stereo. The "left" setting puts left channel in both channels etc. It can be useful during testing. Then I don't need any mono switch at preamp level.