B1 with Korg Triode

If anybody has suggestions or examples of what works, please share them! :)

These rubber standoffs reduce ringing by about 15dB and only cost $5 including shipping! Use them to mount the PCB to the chassis. Then, don't forget to run a separate ground wire to the PCB mounting screw.
 
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What did you use to mount the rubber standoffs to the chasis?

Just use them as a traditional pcb mount. Drill holes in chassis, put the threads through the holes with M3 nuts on the other side. Place the pcb on top of the rubber standoffs, then use M3 screws to fix the board to the rubber standoff. Presto! 15dB of reduced vibration from the chassis to the tube.
 
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I built the DIY Audio Store kit as shipped but swapped for a different attenuator. I would not describe the results as bright. It sounds full bodied to me. I am wondering if others find the bright sounding.

I did find it a bit bright going from my B1 buffer to the Korg B1. For me changing the pots to a bit over 10volts from the project setting of approx 9.5volts solved this for me and haven’t changed it since.
 
This is the solution I have adopted, with the small rubber shock absorbers for drone cameras, the same as those suggested by Eric.
They are very soft and absorbs very well.

Mauro
 

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Hello, I'm back!
Some remember that I have a Korg based on the diyforum board, the original.
I was very excited by the idea of changing those lytics on the signal path, by pps.
Well I did, I used some good values and was very happy with the results, in the begining.

Was I excited because I wanted to? I expected to be, I invested time, Ok.
Now I can say that the sound is... horrible. Harsh! Tiring! Without musical sense. I choosed caps that gave me good results in the past. Burn in? No... I leted them play a lot.
I puted the lytics back. 4 Kaisei non-polar and two silmics in the output.
Immediately I heard music. UUfffhh...!!!!!!
 
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I very rarely find myself in a hurry to replace electrolytic coupling caps...


Well I learn...
I have another board from Wengtech where I use ohmite resistors, the black ones, those that look like "ferrites".
I may try some black gates in the signal, with his board.

Is it reasonable to use 100μf in the signal, instead of 10μf?
 
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No clue, worked fine for me, but I remember you were doing a lot of "black magic" around caps and resistors, using different combinations of "esoteric" boutique caps...

Perhaps avoid cooking receipt, keep it simple with trusted parts that have proven electrical parameters? As said no clue in your case, I just fitted good quality PPP caps - as many did - and it does still sound fine... as for most others I know. Perhaps one of your caps failed, who knows...

Regarding your question, increasing the capacity of the caps in the signal path is of course not a problem, so using 100uF instead of 10uF is not a problem in itself. One may just wonder why, as not needed at all, unless that's another cooking receipt in which case a proper Chef is required to comment...

Good luck

Claude
 
Hi Claude!


No fancy cooking... I used 4 Sonicaps coupled with mallorys.
And Cornell Dubilier. I am not sure if I would be happy with other films.
I can't not do more experiences with this board.


That said, I have the Wengtech with the same recipe but with solens in the place of cornels.
I will hear that way and may change it, by replacing the sonicaps/mallorys by some other caps, but good normal caps, tested. There is a litle possibility of sonicaps being responsible by the harsh sound. May... be....

This board has a lot of very good big pads and I can try two different film recipes and one lytic recipe, may be with black gates, if I decide to buy them to a local guy... if not I will use other lytics, may be I'll try some "normal" lytics", will'll see. As I said, this board is good for caps evaluation.



More to come!
 
Hello, I'm back!
Some remember that I have a Korg based on the diyforum board, the original.
I was very excited by the idea of changing those lytics on the signal path, by pps.
Well I did, I used some good values and was very happy with the results, in the begining.

Was I excited because I wanted to? I expected to be, I invested time, Ok.
Now I can say that the sound is... horrible. Harsh! Tiring! Without musical sense. I choosed caps that gave me good results in the past. Burn in? No... I leted them play a lot.
I puted the lytics back. 4 Kaisei non-polar and two silmics in the output.
Immediately I heard music. UUfffhh...!!!!!!

Same experience here. I preferred 100uf Simic bypassed with .1 poly cap.

I don't know why. I am also confused. I have extensively tested silmic vs poly caps on the output of other preamps and always preferred the poly caps. Silmics always added a haze or veil. In the B1 org however they seem to be bringing some life to the preamp. I don't know why.
 
Hi guys,

two months after the first test (# 4103), my first realization is finally complete! I am really very happy with the result.

For the input selector I used the Grayhill suggested by 6L6 (it was a really good exercise with the welding iron!),
I copied the window on the front from Cubicincher (a really good exercise with the vertical milling machine!).

Many Thanks to Mr. Pass and you all for the support you have given me!

Mauro
 

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Hi guys,

two months after the first test (# 4103), my first realization is finally complete! I am really very happy with the result.

For the input selector I used the Grayhill suggested by 6L6 (it was a really good exercise with the welding iron!),
I copied the window on the front from Cubicincher (a really good exercise with the vertical milling machine!).

Many Thanks to Mr. Pass and you all for the support you have given me!

Mauro

Very nice build! 👏🏻