Thanks TYM
On my side I used one similar to what Papa recommended but with 40% less ripple and a tad more oomph. Perhaps this would have given you a similar improvement, who knows.
Working from there, I upgraded 3 PS caps from 1000 to 2200uf. That brought (only) a subtle improvement, diminishing returns I guess. From there a huge linear regulated lab supply with far more amp capability brought a slightly different sound, but not really a better one, so I kept my quality wall wart and upgraded caps (and I didn't think I would, LOL).
What really brought a decisive upgrade IMHO were the cap replacement (the 3 electrolytic caps in the signal path per channel replacesd by 3 PPP caps), and of course a quality pot (Tocos in my case)
Enjoy your unit very much
Claude
On my side I used one similar to what Papa recommended but with 40% less ripple and a tad more oomph. Perhaps this would have given you a similar improvement, who knows.
Working from there, I upgraded 3 PS caps from 1000 to 2200uf. That brought (only) a subtle improvement, diminishing returns I guess. From there a huge linear regulated lab supply with far more amp capability brought a slightly different sound, but not really a better one, so I kept my quality wall wart and upgraded caps (and I didn't think I would, LOL).
What really brought a decisive upgrade IMHO were the cap replacement (the 3 electrolytic caps in the signal path per channel replacesd by 3 PPP caps), and of course a quality pot (Tocos in my case)
Enjoy your unit very much
Claude
Sorry about 4107#, maybe before I translated incorrectly
... I wanted to mention that the Mr. Pass project is very nice, certainly not the one I assembled! ... damn google translator... and my english language ... I keep working on completing the Korg B1 preamp and Aleph 3 amplifier, when I have free time. From the test performed about 10 days ago, I really think that the paired Pass preamp + Pass amp is excellent!
The attached images are certainly out of topics, but allow me that I am really very excited about my first project, that I want to share it with all of you.
Thanks and good music to all of you!
Mauro
... I wanted to mention that the Mr. Pass project is very nice, certainly not the one I assembled! ... damn google translator... and my english language ... I keep working on completing the Korg B1 preamp and Aleph 3 amplifier, when I have free time. From the test performed about 10 days ago, I really think that the paired Pass preamp + Pass amp is excellent!The attached images are certainly out of topics, but allow me that I am really very excited about my first project, that I want to share it with all of you.
Thanks and good music to all of you!
Mauro
Attachments
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Hello, I'm back!
Rather than making a new pre amp and a new amp, I decided to improve the performance of my Korg tube pre amp and USSA2 amplifier. They are already improved with the best parts in the right places and the sound is excellent, but it can be pushed further...
So, I am trying to detect what are the parts, in the KORG PRE AMP that are in the signal path. Well, I will not change the transistors for better ones...(Ih Ih Ih!!! I'm kidding!)
Seing the schematic of our Korg preamp, the one in the manual, the original, I would say that in the INPUT we have 50K, 10μf and 1K in the signal path, and in the OUTPUT we have 10μf and 100R.
Can anyone confirm or correct?
Also, It seams to me that the 1K connected to the plate and Q1 is for signal, but anyway, it must be important, connected to the plate. I bet is signal, yes it is. There is also a 10μf cap going to the triode. That said, all the 10μf caps in my preamp are from kaisei. I would use a very good resistor in this 1K.
Thank you!
Francisco
Rather than making a new pre amp and a new amp, I decided to improve the performance of my Korg tube pre amp and USSA2 amplifier. They are already improved with the best parts in the right places and the sound is excellent, but it can be pushed further...
So, I am trying to detect what are the parts, in the KORG PRE AMP that are in the signal path. Well, I will not change the transistors for better ones...(Ih Ih Ih!!! I'm kidding!)
Seing the schematic of our Korg preamp, the one in the manual, the original, I would say that in the INPUT we have 50K, 10μf and 1K in the signal path, and in the OUTPUT we have 10μf and 100R.
Can anyone confirm or correct?
Also, It seams to me that the 1K connected to the plate and Q1 is for signal, but anyway, it must be important, connected to the plate. I bet is signal, yes it is. There is also a 10μf cap going to the triode. That said, all the 10μf caps in my preamp are from kaisei. I would use a very good resistor in this 1K.
Thank you!
Francisco
Hi,
Of course you could replace a lot of parts but I am not sure that it would bring a lot of benefits nor that you would also end up ruining the set up by replacing some parts that are relevant to the sound tuning as wanted by Papa.
IMHO, the most benefits are obtained by simply replacing the 3 10uF electrolytic caps (per channel, so 6 in total) that are directly in the signal path and have no other function than blocking DC (and act secondary as "unwanted high pass filters"). You can do that 6 cap mod easily and I found, as many others, that it did improve the sound a lot. Not sure you can do much more TBH, but glad to be proven wrong. I studied the schmatic back then with the help of others here and found that some 'part tuning' my limited understanding had led me to consider initialy... would have been risky or detrimental.
In short, you can replace these 6 caps with PPP caps with other (much lower) values. If you are interested in findind out more on that, I advise you use the search function around my posts: I posted some months ago here a hopefully comprehensive describtion on this topic (parts, calculations to determine the cap's values, fitting instructions and humble personal sonic review)
Good luck either way, that B1 Korg is a fantastic gift from Papa, with some but limited tuning potential re parts swap - but then don't forget the voltage bias allows also lot of (unique?) possibilities and it sounds already great as it is!
Claude
Of course you could replace a lot of parts but I am not sure that it would bring a lot of benefits nor that you would also end up ruining the set up by replacing some parts that are relevant to the sound tuning as wanted by Papa.
IMHO, the most benefits are obtained by simply replacing the 3 10uF electrolytic caps (per channel, so 6 in total) that are directly in the signal path and have no other function than blocking DC (and act secondary as "unwanted high pass filters"). You can do that 6 cap mod easily and I found, as many others, that it did improve the sound a lot. Not sure you can do much more TBH, but glad to be proven wrong. I studied the schmatic back then with the help of others here and found that some 'part tuning' my limited understanding had led me to consider initialy... would have been risky or detrimental.
In short, you can replace these 6 caps with PPP caps with other (much lower) values. If you are interested in findind out more on that, I advise you use the search function around my posts: I posted some months ago here a hopefully comprehensive describtion on this topic (parts, calculations to determine the cap's values, fitting instructions and humble personal sonic review)
Good luck either way, that B1 Korg is a fantastic gift from Papa, with some but limited tuning potential re parts swap - but then don't forget the voltage bias allows also lot of (unique?) possibilities and it sounds already great as it is!
Claude
ClaudeG,
Thank you for your valuable comment.
I have the best 10μf caps available, in my opinion, installed.
They're from Audio Note Kaisei, non-polar.
Each time I use them in signal, when lytics are necessary, I have very good results.
They are very expennsive for lytics, but hey, if you can improve the sound of your pre amplifier with a few euros...
that's not expensive at all.
When you say "In short, you can replace these 6 caps with PPP caps with other (much lower) values", do you mean that lower values will be better for SQ?
When you say lower values, do you mean not lytics, like film caps, for example 1 or 2μf films?
In my experience, when I install a much better resistor in the signal path like the Z foils, for example, I get impressive improvements, so important as caps.
Do you really think that swapping those resistors that are directly in the signal path will not make a difference?
In the other hand, I may be wrong.
One day I decided to change all the important parts of a litle amplifier and solder very good boutique ones. I had two of those amps in a drawer.
I was very excited and the amp sounded very good to me, after the mods.
Then I decided to ear the amp without the mods and the sound was exactly the same...
Thank you for your valuable comment.
I have the best 10μf caps available, in my opinion, installed.
They're from Audio Note Kaisei, non-polar.
Each time I use them in signal, when lytics are necessary, I have very good results.
They are very expennsive for lytics, but hey, if you can improve the sound of your pre amplifier with a few euros...
that's not expensive at all.
When you say "In short, you can replace these 6 caps with PPP caps with other (much lower) values", do you mean that lower values will be better for SQ?
When you say lower values, do you mean not lytics, like film caps, for example 1 or 2μf films?
In my experience, when I install a much better resistor in the signal path like the Z foils, for example, I get impressive improvements, so important as caps.
Do you really think that swapping those resistors that are directly in the signal path will not make a difference?
In the other hand, I may be wrong.
One day I decided to change all the important parts of a litle amplifier and solder very good boutique ones. I had two of those amps in a drawer.
I was very excited and the amp sounded very good to me, after the mods.
Then I decided to ear the amp without the mods and the sound was exactly the same...
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Hi,
Quote: When you say lower values, do you mean not lytics, like film caps, for example 1 or 2μf films?
Yes of course, that's the point as said previously! Forget electrolytics, whatever good they are supposed to be, IMHO they will never sound as good as PPP caps. But that's me and my ears.
And the beauty is the initial values are not required, see my posts (search function is your friend, all what I know has been written here).
I realise perhaps you not to understand all of my previous post. PPP stands for "polypropylène", as you are likely to be French, so indeed NO electrolytics is in the signal path in my case.
Quote: In my experience, when I install a much better resistor in the signal path like the Z foils, for example, I get impressive improvements, so important as caps.
Does not match mine. As long as the resistors are non magnetic and very good quality low ppm ones, I must say I don't make any difference at all. OK, some exotic boutique parts do sound indeed differently, not necessarly better, guess a matter of distorsion? Can be useful to adjust some things, but TBH, I am not really into all that as I like to get things right first time, so I leave you with testing resistors and will be delighted to read your report. Reading your post again, I am not sure you are that convinced either ;-)
Good luck whatever your decision and let us know your findings
Claude
Quote: When you say lower values, do you mean not lytics, like film caps, for example 1 or 2μf films?
Yes of course, that's the point as said previously! Forget electrolytics, whatever good they are supposed to be, IMHO they will never sound as good as PPP caps. But that's me and my ears
. And the beauty is the initial values are not required, see my posts (search function is your friend, all what I know has been written here).
I realise perhaps you not to understand all of my previous post. PPP stands for "polypropylène", as you are likely to be French, so indeed NO electrolytics is in the signal path in my case.
Quote: In my experience, when I install a much better resistor in the signal path like the Z foils, for example, I get impressive improvements, so important as caps.
Does not match mine. As long as the resistors are non magnetic and very good quality low ppm ones, I must say I don't make any difference at all. OK, some exotic boutique parts do sound indeed differently, not necessarly better, guess a matter of distorsion? Can be useful to adjust some things, but TBH, I am not really into all that as I like to get things right first time, so I leave you with testing resistors and will be delighted to read your report. Reading your post again, I am not sure you are that convinced either ;-)
Good luck whatever your decision and let us know your findings
Claude
It's late and I am very interested about that search in your posts. Tomorrow.
I wondered what PPP is. Now I know! Lately I found the meaning of SQ, BTW and TBH.
My english is improving! But TBH, sometimes french people talk by initials. BTW, I'm portuguese, living in France.
Yes, PPPs are much much better than lytics for signal, that I know.
Some not expensive but good PPPs are not so cheap whatsoever...
I wonder if low values like 0.47μf and 1μf would work here.
I am very excited with this mod. I will definitely make it.
Can you help me with these values or... do I find some explanation about it in your posts? (That I'll be seeing tomorrow)
I decided that I will install the PPPs. Can't miss it. Then, I can try VARS or Audio Notes, just one per chanel and if it works I'll replace the others. I will report here.
Thanks!
I wondered what PPP is. Now I know! Lately I found the meaning of SQ, BTW and TBH.
My english is improving! But TBH, sometimes french people talk by initials. BTW, I'm portuguese, living in France.
Yes, PPPs are much much better than lytics for signal, that I know.
Some not expensive but good PPPs are not so cheap whatsoever...
I wonder if low values like 0.47μf and 1μf would work here.
I am very excited with this mod. I will definitely make it.
Can you help me with these values or... do I find some explanation about it in your posts? (That I'll be seeing tomorrow)
I decided that I will install the PPPs. Can't miss it. Then, I can try VARS or Audio Notes, just one per chanel and if it works I'll replace the others. I will report here.
Thanks!
All is in my posts, don't worry, inclusive the cap brand I used and of course the values you can use relative to their location.
The posts are I believe quite self-explanatory (that was at least the intention) - if not and you have some extra questions, just shout (once you read the posts), you are welcome anytime. I too benefited from (great) help on this equaly great forum
Good night
Claude
The posts are I believe quite self-explanatory (that was at least the intention) - if not and you have some extra questions, just shout (once you read the posts), you are welcome anytime. I too benefited from (great) help on this equaly great forum
Good night
Claude
Well, I said tomorrow but had to it now. I found the posts, one for explanation and the other for sound. You are using very chep caps, very cheap compared to so many boutique's.
You have to excuse me, no, please correct me if I, a maniac boutique audiophile, (MBA), can't get rid of the idea of using fancy capacitors. May be I'm a victim.
That said, I can't help to ask you why didn't you use better caps?
May be you don't believe on that, or may be it's a waste of money, or whatever, but what's the reason? I hope I'm wrong and you're right. I prefer if you're right, it will be cheaper for me!
I have a classA power amp that happens to be an USSA-3 from Fab, for me it belongs to the family of Nelson diy amps, may be a close cousin. I guess that the third cap, being 3,3μf will be fine. Could it be less? The necessary calculations are totally out of my knowledge.
You have to excuse me, no, please correct me if I, a maniac boutique audiophile, (MBA), can't get rid of the idea of using fancy capacitors. May be I'm a victim.
That said, I can't help to ask you why didn't you use better caps?
May be you don't believe on that, or may be it's a waste of money, or whatever, but what's the reason? I hope I'm wrong and you're right. I prefer if you're right, it will be cheaper for me!
I have a classA power amp that happens to be an USSA-3 from Fab, for me it belongs to the family of Nelson diy amps, may be a close cousin. I guess that the third cap, being 3,3μf will be fine. Could it be less? The necessary calculations are totally out of my knowledge.
I have two 0.22μf caps and two 1μf. All of them are Mundorf MCap EVO Silver Gold Oil Capacitors. These are very sweet, when they are in the right place. Are these good for the Korg? There are bigger values in my boxes, like Solen , Mallory, Audyn, russian pios, etc. Not PPPs... I'll check tomorrow, I mean today... later.
