As of July 16... "Not this afternoon. But getting pretty close, finally. 
" Could be the month long Italian vacation is preventing the shipment of the Chassis. I'm still waiting for my chassis for my F5 to be shipped.
" Could be the month long Italian vacation is preventing the shipment of the Chassis. I'm still waiting for my chassis for my F5 to be shipped.
The parts kits and chassis will be available very very soon. Next day or two.
They will basically be beta test, make sure there no silly errors in the kits, but I packed every single one and feel pretty darn good about it.
If you get one before I have official guide photos follow the photos of mine with the black chassis.
They will basically be beta test, make sure there no silly errors in the kits, but I packed every single one and feel pretty darn good about it.
If you get one before I have official guide photos follow the photos of mine with the black chassis.
I guess this has been mentioned before but just having finished building the PCB, I found that the BOM I had printed said I needed just two 100 ohm resistors, and as we all know, you need four.
The parts kits and chassis will be available very very soon. Next day or two.
They will basically be beta test, make sure there no silly errors in the kits, but I packed every single one and feel pretty darn good about it.
If you get one before I have official guide photos follow the photos of mine with the black chassis.
Hallelujah
many thx 6L6 for this good news, my dear B1 deserves it!!!
I PMed Nelson about there being some BOMs not in line with the current PCB/Design. He replied he would fix those instances specifically on the FW site. I tripped over the same thing. But also, 6L6's build earlier in this thread and his BOM is not what the board requires that is being sent out now. That's where I got bad info. I chalked it up to a DIY learning experience. Make sure the BOM will fill-up all those little holes in the board before you order anything. 😎
August MJ magazine ? Last time Mr. Pass article was translated in " Radio Technology|Craft audio for all generations "
avril 2016, SIT-1 and DIY Vfet was included.
Luckily a paper copy does stay forever in my electronic bench library
ThanksAttachments
@ BK Dymacel
Excellent DIY work
Congratulations
B1 Korg article from Japan r-tec1908_(03)Nutube-preamp_NelsonP.pdf - Google Drive
Excellent DIY work
Congratulations B1 Korg article from Japan r-tec1908_(03)Nutube-preamp_NelsonP.pdf - Google Drive
What is a good quality input selector switch to use on these that will be similar to the Alps attenuator I'm using for volume control. I'm looking for a 3 position.
56SP36-01-2-03S Grayhill | Mouser
I used this my silver faceplate build. It has an 1/8" shaft, so you'll need to get a knob that size. It's a very nice switch.
B1 with Korg Triode
I used this my silver faceplate build. It has an 1/8" shaft, so you'll need to get a knob that size. It's a very nice switch.
B1 with Korg Triode
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Looks good 6L6 but I already have a 1/4" knob on the volume control I'd like to match. I found this similar C&K one on Mouser. Looks like I'll have to cut down the shaft length but with the thick faceplate I have I may need an extended shaft anyway. Do you see any reason it wouldn't work? A20315RNZQK C&K | Mouser
You want a shorting switch (make before break) and preferably gold contacts so they don’t tarnish.
I used this 3-input switch from GlassWare Audio Design:
Stereo selector switch
It was recommend by others here on diyAudio and works great.
Stereo selector switch
It was recommend by others here on diyAudio and works great.
Attachments
I like that one but it's Out of Stock apparently. Thanks for the make B4 break advice 6L6. I didn't realize that was what I needed.