Maybe this will help.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/120593-how-use-subwoofer-2-channel-amp.html
Do any of you guys know how to wire
B1 for Sub out.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/120593-how-use-subwoofer-2-channel-amp.html
A little premature, on my part. I am missing a couple of components so haven't powered it up but here are some chassis efforts.
I see two knobs, did you use two volume pots instead of a single dual pot?
I didn't think of that, it would have the added feature of balance control.
Yes I did. You can PM me for infomation about it.That is a Good looking chassis,did you fabricate it yourself.
yes, they are Alps mono pots. There was discussion on the B1 main thread about the use of stereo or mono and gain control so I thought I'd use two monos.I see two knobs, did you use two volume pots instead of a single dual pot?
I didn't think of that, it would have the added feature of balance control.
Yes I did. You can PM me for infomation about it.
We might be interested as well..... if you can share those info, other people might appreciate. 🙂
Anyone have any experience with very heavy bass output in the B1? I am running a 50k blue velvet as my volume pot and stuck with the values NP gave in the article....his board btw... and the bass is overpowering. Everything else seems to sound fine. It has at least twice the bass as my BOZ. Which I consider to my "neutral" reference right now. It replaced my YBA 3 preamp. Any thoughts as to why I have so much stinking bass?
TNX
TNX
Is it possible your previous preamp had an early rolloff when coupled to your amp, for low freq's and the B1 when coupled to your amp is essentially flat down to a much lower freq? It could be you have too much baffle step compensation in your speakers (or they are close to walls/corners) and the previous preamp was rolling off early and compensating for this, but the B1 is not, so it now stands out.... If you have a way of doing freq response measurements of the whole chain (eg using truerta) This could give you the answer.
Tony.
Tony.
We might be interested as well..... if you can share those info, other people might appreciate. 🙂
x2. love the chassis and Kilo knobs.
It seems not to be any more extended up kinda "bumped" at about 80-100 hz but I cannot be sure without a visual. I will check with truerta with a voltage divider on the amp output and get back to you guys.
It's possible the response was bumped up naturally due to room/speaker interface and Qbox.
The amplifier and/or preamp/source could have corrected this bass emphasis by having a low Q roll off.
Putting in the buffer that has a wideband response could return the system to that natural bass emphasised response.
If that scenario exists then sorting the problem rather than covering it up with response tailoring would probably be the better option.
The amplifier and/or preamp/source could have corrected this bass emphasis by having a low Q roll off.
Putting in the buffer that has a wideband response could return the system to that natural bass emphasised response.
If that scenario exists then sorting the problem rather than covering it up with response tailoring would probably be the better option.
Dear All,
First, I'd like t say that I'm not the most talented and hardest working DIYer, You can call me lazy, I could have made my own pcb and bought the parts individually , But I bought a kit. The only thing that needed more work is the casing . Pix below.
First, I'd like t say that I'm not the most talented and hardest working DIYer, You can call me lazy, I could have made my own pcb and bought the parts individually , But I bought a kit. The only thing that needed more work is the casing . Pix below.




The psu is a 19V switch mode psu from my laptop, located on a separate plastic casing. The connection between the pre amp and the psu is non detachable type. You can see that I use an IEC socket to pass through the dc wire.




The casing I use is a midsized aluminum , with thick panels. It took me quiet a while to make the knob nice when turning, The mechanics of the extension system must be aligned properly to make it feel nice when turning.



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I almost forgot to say that it sounds fantastic, The most transparent pre amp I've heard by far.
I prefer to use a 50k pot, I find it sweeter sounding than a 25 or 20k pot, The pot I'm using right now will be change into a TKD pot, As soon as it arrives.
I also opted not to use the selector, Cause after some extensive listening and comparing 2 identical b1 kits (yes I bought 2 kits), I find that the best sound is by directly connecting the pot to the input, Without the selector. The selector I experimented on was a Japan made expensive gold plated dpdt selector, Even the solder terminals are gold plated., cost me $25- . But by doing this , I lost a bit of convenience, But then I use a dac that automatically selects digital sources and I don't have any other source, So this configuration works well for me.
I prefer to use a 50k pot, I find it sweeter sounding than a 25 or 20k pot, The pot I'm using right now will be change into a TKD pot, As soon as it arrives.
I also opted not to use the selector, Cause after some extensive listening and comparing 2 identical b1 kits (yes I bought 2 kits), I find that the best sound is by directly connecting the pot to the input, Without the selector. The selector I experimented on was a Japan made expensive gold plated dpdt selector, Even the solder terminals are gold plated., cost me $25- . But by doing this , I lost a bit of convenience, But then I use a dac that automatically selects digital sources and I don't have any other source, So this configuration works well for me.
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Member
Joined 2002
But I bought a kit.
Just a shame that you appear to have purchased from a source that continues to illegally use Nelson's IP!
Marchel
How do you wire B1 without selector switch.
I may do this also.
It's easy, I directly connected the pin 1 and 3 of the pot to the ground and signal terminal respectively , Of the input RCA socket.
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