H2 is also a buffer. So you could use it independently if you have a way to control the volume, such as a pot before the h2 or the b1 before the h2.
I have not tried the h2 but I have built the ba3 with the adjustable 2nd harmonic. I have both versions of the B1 buffer and also the korg b1.
In my opinion, the results of 2nd harmonic are highly dependent on your power amp and music preferences. My favorite is the korg b1.
I have not tried the h2 but I have built the ba3 with the adjustable 2nd harmonic. I have both versions of the B1 buffer and also the korg b1.
In my opinion, the results of 2nd harmonic are highly dependent on your power amp and music preferences. My favorite is the korg b1.
I'm using the H2 in front of the B1.
There is a cheapy SMPS and CLC filter that removes all audible hum caused by the PS.
Here is a pic.
Thanks for the visualization of the build! I read that matched jfets are needed and I’m not quite sure where to get them or even how to do it myself (at least Papa does that for you when you buy the B1 PCB from him). Are matched resistors necessary like there are for the B1?
I guess I can follow the "H2 Harmonic Generator - DIY Version 1” article from the H2 harmonic generator forum for component values and calibration?
Thanks,
Pete
Yes, the B1K does have a magical sound to it. Having built both the B1 (still fiddling with the caps used) and the B1K, I’m finding the B1K is great for classical music & makes listening to all the older harsh CD recordings of R&R tolerable. The B1 is just very clean & accurate. It’s certainly a lot less fussy than than the B1K.
Pete
I have to admit that I can't answer your questions about resistors and matching the Jfets. I was one of the lucky ones to have received a kit including all components when Papa handed them out.
I'm sure someone will be able to answer your questions, especially if you ask in the relevant forum.
If your preference for a warm sound is similar to mine, it will be worth the trouble building one of these. I've read that some don't like it, but I can't imagine myself ever again listening to music without the H2.
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Pete, since you mentioned classical I thought I'd point you to what Nelson said about the H2 generator, "It tends to sound best when presented by fairly simple audio material at levels your neighbors don't complain about. Massive orchestras and large choral performances at high levels can get congested when the 2nd harmonic is high."
Good thing I’m partial to both quiet pieces, like nocturnes & cello music, as well as to listening at levels that don’t either scare my cats or rattle things on my walls…. ;>)
I’ll have to play Beethoven’s Symphony #9 loudly and see what happens vs using the B1 to test that out.
A number of jazz recordings sound like I’m in the club listening. The B1K is amazingly hypnotic with the right music.
Thanks for that piece of info!
Cheers,
Pete
Here’s my B1 build in its Galaxy case
I used a Salas UltraBiB shunt regulator after the toroidal and a soft start circuit (on the outgoing AC line) for amp attachment. Independent ALPS mono pots for balance control. Very clean sounding with a wonderful bottom response. I’ll be fooling around with the 1&10uF film cap positions to try to warm it up slightly.
Thanks to Papa and previous builder for ideas and observations.
Cheers, Pete
I used a Salas UltraBiB shunt regulator after the toroidal and a soft start circuit (on the outgoing AC line) for amp attachment. Independent ALPS mono pots for balance control. Very clean sounding with a wonderful bottom response. I’ll be fooling around with the 1&10uF film cap positions to try to warm it up slightly.
Thanks to Papa and previous builder for ideas and observations.
Cheers, Pete
Attachments
I'm working on an add-on pcb for my B1K and suddenly realized that the B1K pcb does not have a ground plane except under the Korg tube. I work mostly in digital and always use a ground plane but it occurs to me to ask if there is a reason that this is not used in an audio circuit? Are there different perspectives or is it agreed that a ground plane is inappropriate?
My board has power & digital & audio circuits so I could use a ground plane in the power & digital regions and not in the audio signal portion of the board if that is apppropriate.
Some advice here would be appreciated.
My board has power & digital & audio circuits so I could use a ground plane in the power & digital regions and not in the audio signal portion of the board if that is apppropriate.
Some advice here would be appreciated.
Hi, I was using Jantzen Alumen 1uF and Mundorf Supreme EVO Oil. Bouth bypassed with Mundorf SIO.
Building a new now I have ordred V-cap ODAM 1uF, not decided the 10uF yet ( think ODAM there also ). Trying no bypass cap this time. Are all the 4 parts in the signal way likewise impotent? R102/202, C100/200, C101/201 and R104/204?
And if you want to use a extra good part like say Vishay VAR (resistor) in the signal way. Do you place it first R102/202 or last R104/204? Sorry for using your post for open questions, hope its ok ( :
Frank
Frank, when I built mine, is was just easier to put Dales (RN55s or CMFs ) everywhere (R1 may not really benefit from using a Dale, IMHO) and not really worry about which resistor position had greater impact. It’s really not greatly expensive since there really isn’t that many resistors used.
Both the 1uF & 10uF caps (C100, C200, C101, C201) will have impact on the signal (some folk argue it’s all in one’s head) and if you really wanted to get exotic, you certainly could upgrade R102, R202, R104, and R204 to Z-foils, Audionote Tantalums, PRPs, Takmans, Shinkohs, etc) if you want to spend the $ and guide the SQ. Anything directly in the signal path should (probably) be considered important.
Comments builders?
Cheers,
Pete
Both the 1uF & 10uF caps (C100, C200, C101, C201) will have impact on the signal (some folk argue it’s all in one’s head) and if you really wanted to get exotic, you certainly could upgrade R102, R202, R104, and R204 to Z-foils, Audionote Tantalums, PRPs, Takmans, Shinkohs, etc) if you want to spend the $ and guide the SQ. Anything directly in the signal path should (probably) be considered important.
Comments builders?
Cheers,
Pete
I've got the parts for this kind of project: Z-Foil resistors in the signal path and Jantzen caps. (I can't remember off-hand which.) I also intend to build it balanced. I'll let you know how it goes! It's next on my list.
Quick question regarding the 1k series resistor and the 10uf coupling cap.
I have an amp that would like 100r max and 22uf and upwards. Would these substitutions have a negative effect on the B1?
I have an amp that would like 100r max and 22uf and upwards. Would these substitutions have a negative effect on the B1?
