tinitus - This would be a very good use of Peter Daniel's PSU board...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...fer-preamp-regulator-dual-15v-lm317-km337.jpg
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...fer-preamp-regulator-dual-15v-lm317-km337.jpg
Just completed the standard B1 with mundorf caps and integration in my system, with R2R volume control. Better and tighter bass, clearer highs. Little but nice improvement this far. A big thank for 6L6 for his tremendous help with cabling and grounding!
Cheers
Laurent
Cheers
Laurent
Laurent - My most sincere thanks, and a hearty congratulations on your completed project!
To those not familiar with Laurent's project, it is a single chassis implementation of a B1, a digital-controlled attenuator with front panel display, and the active crossover for the Linkwitz Orion speaker. Each module has it's own discrete regulated power supply. Wow!
To those not familiar with Laurent's project, it is a single chassis implementation of a B1, a digital-controlled attenuator with front panel display, and the active crossover for the Linkwitz Orion speaker. Each module has it's own discrete regulated power supply. Wow!


Audio GD supplies. Nice 🙂
Thats a supply I would actually buy a board for, or the kit.
http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/diy/PSU09/PSU09EN.htm
Thats a supply I would actually buy a board for, or the kit.
http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/diy/PSU09/PSU09EN.htm
Audio GD supplies. Nice 🙂
looks like very skilled people
seems to be mostly plug and play stuff
but also a bit like they throw in a lot of components, just for the fun of it
but maybe it does make sense
I'm not clever enough to know anything about it
I like the KISS method better, for obvious reasons 😀
btw, how important is low ESR caps, to the power supply in with a preamp 😕
or maybe its even better to not use low ESR caps ?
I'm not saying you should go buy it, I was just recognizing the power supplies in that build 6L6 posted. I think they will supply max 800mA as is and up to 1.5A. Its actually about the same price to build than most regulator based circuits assuming you would put a sink on your regulator and use some decent caps for filtering. Uses 2sa970 and its counterpart as well as 2sc5170 and 2sa1930. BC639 I think to.
A lower ESR I believe will do a better job filtering anything that happens by that isnt DC. I think thats why lower ESR but I am probably wrong about that.
Any noise in the power supply can make its way into your signal in a preamp, since just like an amp active preamps modulate the supply rails.
A lower ESR I believe will do a better job filtering anything that happens by that isnt DC. I think thats why lower ESR but I am probably wrong about that.
Any noise in the power supply can make its way into your signal in a preamp, since just like an amp active preamps modulate the supply rails.
6L6 I love the build, but dont you find that chassis supplier to have very low quality chassis? Mine didnt fit together at all. Was warped and screws did not match up perfectly with holes. Was completely disappointed with the purchase, frankly. 8Audio has very nice stuff in terms of quality.
Uriah
Uriah
I was just recognizing the power supplies in that build 6L6 posted.
ahh, you are right, I see them now too
Hi,
I didn't think 6L6 would post the pictures, I would have made an effort otherwise and made some clearer ones!
I am a beginner in DIY and still have plenty to learn, forums like this one are really helpful.
I did use a Lite Audio chassis indeed, 59 euros here, and apart from 4 screws out of maybe 30 not fitting in the holes, I feel the quality is fair, you cannot obviously compare with chassis that retail for more, although I bought a chassis in France once for 80 euros that was absolutely rubish, returned it straight away.
I used 2 Audio GD PS, well spotted! they retail for 32$ and the build quality is good, it was a no brainer to be honest! But there are no measurements on their website so cannot comment on the performance, although they are very silent. I have an Audio Gd Dac and I am most impressed with it, they seem to specialize in overkill PS for all their designs, some of them having 13 filtering stages..
The B1 is hidden under the R2R volume control as I tried to keep everything close to the RCA and avoid long runs of cables.
Thansk again to everyone here.
Cheers
Laurent
I didn't think 6L6 would post the pictures, I would have made an effort otherwise and made some clearer ones!
I am a beginner in DIY and still have plenty to learn, forums like this one are really helpful.
I did use a Lite Audio chassis indeed, 59 euros here, and apart from 4 screws out of maybe 30 not fitting in the holes, I feel the quality is fair, you cannot obviously compare with chassis that retail for more, although I bought a chassis in France once for 80 euros that was absolutely rubish, returned it straight away.
I used 2 Audio GD PS, well spotted! they retail for 32$ and the build quality is good, it was a no brainer to be honest! But there are no measurements on their website so cannot comment on the performance, although they are very silent. I have an Audio Gd Dac and I am most impressed with it, they seem to specialize in overkill PS for all their designs, some of them having 13 filtering stages..
The B1 is hidden under the R2R volume control as I tried to keep everything close to the RCA and avoid long runs of cables.
Thansk again to everyone here.
Cheers
Laurent
lolo I have measured those supplies and they are as good as they sound. I have two of their DACs and am pleased. You are right they are crazy about the power supplies. Most of the DAC is supply. I recently heard a lower model from them with the wolfson chip. Really really good even compared to the RE7. Much less money to.
That is perfectly acceptable; however, the diode in each of the ground lines is superfluous, it's still only half wave rectification. Fit a bridge rectifier to each windings output for full wave.with high input voltage, I wonder if its ok to use 2x two regs, like this, in principle
hmm, to save money, I'm thinking about a box design like this
stacked wood with air between the plated
as such it could be a dust collector too 😱
I am a complete noob, but I do believe the sound and background was much quieter when my preamp was enclosed in a full metal box as compared to with an open lid. Maybe due to some EMI/RF shielding? Therefore I would always use a metal box for preamp, never wood.
Will be interesting to hear if the seasoned ol' hands on diyaudio subscribe to this view?
--G
The 2 biggest deals with picking up noise are low impeadance inputs and short lines, cables etc.. And, gain.
If your preamp is <2X-10X(6-20db) don't worry about the gain part. Conversly if you have a 60db phono pre...
Longer lines/cables are like an anttena that has more sensitivity. The longer it is the more voltage it has on it.
The lower the input impeadance, the less voltage developed at the input. You really only need external sheilding with high gain circuits IMHO.
Proper grounding is ussually much more difficult to figure out...
If your preamp is <2X-10X(6-20db) don't worry about the gain part. Conversly if you have a 60db phono pre...
Longer lines/cables are like an anttena that has more sensitivity. The longer it is the more voltage it has on it.
The lower the input impeadance, the less voltage developed at the input. You really only need external sheilding with high gain circuits IMHO.
Proper grounding is ussually much more difficult to figure out...
found some faults in my front wood
makes it much more interesting
tho it may have a story less nice
will be exciting to see if it stays that way
and a few more things to complete the front design
I probably spend too much time on those details
but I find them important
makes it much more interesting
tho it may have a story less nice
will be exciting to see if it stays that way
and a few more things to complete the front design
I probably spend too much time on those details
but I find them important
Attachments
Those beautiful Bulgin buttons usually cant take much current but guys often want to use them. In this situation it wont need to pass much current anyway, but if you wanted more you could always use it to throw a relay or mosfet rather than pass the current itself.
Those beautiful Bulgin......
it is indeed
and the other plastic one, with the funny name OTTO, isn't cheap either
quite sophisticated contact tehcnology
both of them should handle 2.5/A with 250Vac
but for the time ever I want to try a front mounted power switch
basicly because of the LDR's, that shouldn't be 'forgotten' with power on
btw, getting closer to a layout I hope will work well
I thought this would be easy, yet seems there's still a long way
well, I have decided to use Panasonic FM caps
Attachments
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Pass Labs
- B1 Buffer Preamp