It is a good unit. I had my b1 driving a Rowland Model 1 for a while with good results. I built a Leach phono stage into my (front end) b1 with great results. I now use it as a phono stage into my restored/upgraded pioneer sx1250. This combination absolutely slaps any sound system I have had to date for vinyl.
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cwmartin,
That's interesting, thanks for that. The article about the Leach phono stage looks an interesting read. I might get back to you on what exactly you did there once I've had a read. Have been looking for a simple-ish phono stage.
That's interesting, thanks for that. The article about the Leach phono stage looks an interesting read. I might get back to you on what exactly you did there once I've had a read. Have been looking for a simple-ish phono stage.
The B1 is my first real build after the ACA kit so sorry for the newbie question. I am struggling to source the RCA plugs. I initially bought these from Digikey (SC2438-ND and SC1828-ND) and realized that they did not have the plastic insulation and I think i need that for my Galaxy 1U case. Then I bought these from Mouser (568-NYS367-2 and 568-NYS367-0) and they are not the best quality insulation and thicker diameter. Where do I find ones similar to the high quality ones that came in the ACA kit? Since i am buying 12 at a time, i am already out like sixty bucks on RCA plugs. It would be really nice to get it right next time. Thank you!
The B1 is an excellent candidate for a battery experiment, and I saw that it has been covered before, but I have a few questions.
1. Will the b1 preamp work running at 12-13 V? I happen to have a dirt cheap powered drill battery. I could try it first and then upgrade to 18V if I like the sound.
2.I heard from a guy trying to sell me power conditioners that the electricity from batteries can sound "slow" compared to electricity from the power grid. Maybe a few large capacitors would make the battery "faster" sounding. I don't know if that really is an issue. Sounds a lot like snakeoil.
1. Will the b1 preamp work running at 12-13 V? I happen to have a dirt cheap powered drill battery. I could try it first and then upgrade to 18V if I like the sound.
2.I heard from a guy trying to sell me power conditioners that the electricity from batteries can sound "slow" compared to electricity from the power grid. Maybe a few large capacitors would make the battery "faster" sounding. I don't know if that really is an issue. Sounds a lot like snakeoil.
on the article 18v is minimum. Maybe with a voltage multiplier...
it's true, battery could "slow" the sound, but when it's needed to pump lot of current qnd it's not the case here (only few mA are needed).
I used to power mine with a couple of 9v batteries, a couple always on charge are needed for critical listening.
Hope it helps...
Ciao
That's exactly what I thought too. A DC-DC boost converter (step-up) should work fine as it can be adjusted to whatever voltage you require.
The 13.5V of an auto battery will work, but the distortion will be bit higher
and of course the maximum voltage swing will be lower, but I think it
will be fine.
and of course the maximum voltage swing will be lower, but I think it
will be fine.
Hi All,
I was considering building a unity-gain pre amp to drive my DIYAudio-AB "Honey Badger". I have stumbled upon the B1 buffer, which appears to meet my goal.
Dealing with mostly Guitar amps in the past, the goal was to have an impedance match (eg 8ohm head unit feeding 8ohm cabinet, etc.. ).
The question is, do I need to calculate and compensate for the Amps impedance and adjust accordingly, or is this circuit smart enough to not care?
Sorry for the basic question, I am not a bench technician!
I was considering building a unity-gain pre amp to drive my DIYAudio-AB "Honey Badger". I have stumbled upon the B1 buffer, which appears to meet my goal.
Dealing with mostly Guitar amps in the past, the goal was to have an impedance match (eg 8ohm head unit feeding 8ohm cabinet, etc.. ).
The question is, do I need to calculate and compensate for the Amps impedance and adjust accordingly, or is this circuit smart enough to not care?
Sorry for the basic question, I am not a bench technician!
smart enough
if you chose iteration having 1K series resistor on output , just short it ....... or use anything between 0R and 47R
if you chose iteration having 1K series resistor on output , just short it ....... or use anything between 0R and 47R
Zen Mod, thank you for the advice. Can I ask the reason why you suggest shorting the 1K series R on the output? (for my own education)?
minimizing output impedance of buffer
Papa put 1K there (in first iteration) as idiotproof part
Papa put 1K there (in first iteration) as idiotproof part
Thanks again. Do you know where I can get the latest drawing? I am referencing the original 2008 Article.
