Hi Koifarm,
I found your Shanling T100 mod, with direct tube output. Since it is tube thread, I would like to ask for a little help. Lately I bought Shanling SDC 300 SACD player. It has two PCM1792 DAC in mono mode. It means, that for one channel exist four current outputs ( each two simmetrical ) with ca 3,8 mA p-p with ca - 4 mA bias. There are 8 op amps for the channel and tube-cathode follower output. Do you have some experience with I/V resistor conversion for such DACS? TI claims, that such conversion will deteriorate signal parameters.
Please comment
I found your Shanling T100 mod, with direct tube output. Since it is tube thread, I would like to ask for a little help. Lately I bought Shanling SDC 300 SACD player. It has two PCM1792 DAC in mono mode. It means, that for one channel exist four current outputs ( each two simmetrical ) with ca 3,8 mA p-p with ca - 4 mA bias. There are 8 op amps for the channel and tube-cathode follower output. Do you have some experience with I/V resistor conversion for such DACS? TI claims, that such conversion will deteriorate signal parameters.
Please comment
Very late reaction, but i missed the last reply.
The mod is the same as the T100-se. This player has also two BB1792 Dacs.
The mod is the same as the T100-se. This player has also two BB1792 Dacs.
The first problem has arrived with my amp.
The rotary switch for the on/off knob seems to be slipping so that the point where it turns on is right up against the clockwise stop.
Has any body else experienced this?
Have a suitable exchange knob?
The rotary switch for the on/off knob seems to be slipping so that the point where it turns on is right up against the clockwise stop.
Has any body else experienced this?
Have a suitable exchange knob?
Burned resistors, appalling PSU, under-spec capacitors, failed pots, biasing doesn't work, negative feedback on an SE amp (= cheap output transformer), dying power transformers, no support whatsoever from the factory and people still buying them!!!
Why don't you go ahead and build something, I fail to understand, really! OK, it is nice to look at. That must be it. So I m guessing you bought it for looks, then you realise what you bought and then you try to polish the ...mud.
Why don't you go ahead and build something, I fail to understand, really! OK, it is nice to look at. That must be it. So I m guessing you bought it for looks, then you realise what you bought and then you try to polish the ...mud.
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I have a start up problem on my Audioromy. During the last months, the power switch became more and more slugish to turn on. Finally it would not start unless I twist the switch hard to the on position. I got a new switch rated 250 V 16A. The amp starts up and in a pop shuts down again. I changed the capacitor by the relay for an uprated one (47uF 100V 105degrees). Same thing happens. I see the omron relay is rated for 50 V not 250V, hmmm... Can anybody confirm the type of omron relay?
What now?
Check if the heater voltage is coming up first?
What now?
Check if the heater voltage is coming up first?
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Removed the tubes -no load- the amp is now totally dead. New fuse just to be sure. Nope.
So either the relay is dead or the transformer.
So either the relay is dead or the transformer.
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Has anyone tried changing the circuit of the Audoromy 813 to Peter Millets circuit using a single Hi Gm pentode. gets rid of a lot of Caps. I biult an 813 using the HIGm pentode and Sowter transformer it works great.
About to modify a sound track 813 to the same.
About to modify a sound track 813 to the same.
I´m giving up on mine, the transformer is shorted. I don´t want to work on something with those voltages, and agree with costis_n it is a piece of trash. If I ever want to rebuild it I would do as multi suggests and follow Pete Millets ideas.
Somehow I think it is not your transformer. Take the relay out of the circuit and power it up slowly (do you have a variac)?
I have a variac, and have also considered the relay. Will do that.
But I don´t really want to have the amp in my living room any more due to the voltage.
But I don´t really want to have the amp in my living room any more due to the voltage.
Finished modifying the Soundstage 813 to Peter Millets circuit. Got rid of feedback switch, alps pot and input switch only kept the power supply. A huge improvement in the sound, screechy treble gone, very dynamic and plenty of bass, can even play Telarcs's Stravinsky Rite of spring. I don't think there is much wrong with the out put transformer on this amp. Using millets circuit ONLY one interstage cap not 4. Same as the Audioromy 813 impossible to get get a circuit. I was told if they handed out the circuit people would copy it!!!! What a joke.
hii
is this amp still available? is there any info i can get? or anyone have one fully working non modified / lightly mod and thinking of selling it?
sorry for bumping an old thread, just super curious about this amp 😵
Thanks.
is this amp still available? is there any info i can get? or anyone have one fully working non modified / lightly mod and thinking of selling it?
sorry for bumping an old thread, just super curious about this amp 😵
Thanks.
I replaced the faulty cap for 47uF/160V/105C. Now FU13 works as usual. I believe, that the original cap was from faulty batch. I run the unit more than 3 hours and it was really hot, specially inside. It is american product. Now I will work over the bias to reduce it to ca 65 mA. Then I will try to reduce NFB and see impact on the sound.
Savim
My amp has blown the fuse following what sounded like chattering of a relay. The capacitor adjacent the relay isn't bulging but I presume could still have failed. Does the failing of the capacitor result in the relay chattering? How to easily diagnose a failed capacitor? Any other advise appreciated.
Should i just replace the capacitor and failed fuse and try powering up again?
When i had the same problem there was nothing to see at the capacitor.
Just replace the capacitor as decribed earlier in this thread.
Just replace the capacitor as decribed earlier in this thread.
When i had the same problem there was nothing to see at the capacitor.
Just replace the capacitor as decribed earlier in this thread.
Thanks Koifarm. I will relace the capacitor and fuse and then try powering up. Many thanks again.
is this amp still available? is there any info i can get? or anyone have one fully working non modified / lightly mod and thinking of selling it?
sorry for bumping an old thread, just super curious about this amp 😵 Thanks. yesman94 These amps are very unreliable. terrible sound unless modified the power transformer On mine went; a friend of mine bought two of these amps very cheap, both of them had blown power transformers. my friend replaced the transformers and modified the amps to Peter Millets 813 circuit.
Phil
sorry for bumping an old thread, just super curious about this amp 😵 Thanks. yesman94 These amps are very unreliable. terrible sound unless modified the power transformer On mine went; a friend of mine bought two of these amps very cheap, both of them had blown power transformers. my friend replaced the transformers and modified the amps to Peter Millets 813 circuit.
Phil
Hallo Phil,
New amps are not avaible. You have to build them yourself or buy a used one.
I use mine now for 6 years and it is still my best sounding amp ever.
Ronny
New amps are not avaible. You have to build them yourself or buy a used one.
I use mine now for 6 years and it is still my best sounding amp ever.
Ronny
Replaced the capacitor and fuse and powered it on yesterday. Everything works fine. Thanks for your help Ronny. I concur that this amp sounds very good and this is my amp of choice amongst various valve and solid state amps. Stupendous value!
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