The supply that I was referring to would have a ground, a positive 15v output and a negative 15v output. The actual output would likely be adjustable.
Did you have to replace any driver components in the output stage?
I don't remember, did it have output FETs that failed?
The reason that I'm asking is that I don't want you to power up with full rail voltage if there could be a problem.
Something like the following could work to help protect newly replaced outputs.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/319174-4000-1-a-7.html#post5492949
Did you have to replace any driver components in the output stage?
I don't remember, did it have output FETs that failed?
The reason that I'm asking is that I don't want you to power up with full rail voltage if there could be a problem.
Something like the following could work to help protect newly replaced outputs.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/319174-4000-1-a-7.html#post5492949
I don't have supply like that sorry.
It has new output drivers in it.
And the outputs were fine when I got amp no mosfets were bad it was just stuck in protect.
So are you suggesting that I make one off a Transformer in the amp and if so I'm not sure if I have everything needed to do so.
I've never done anything like that before and I'm just nervous I don't want to mess something up but I'll give it a shot if you can explain it to like what parts and wire type I should use.
It has new output drivers in it.
And the outputs were fine when I got amp no mosfets were bad it was just stuck in protect.
So are you suggesting that I make one off a Transformer in the amp and if so I'm not sure if I have everything needed to do so.
I've never done anything like that before and I'm just nervous I don't want to mess something up but I'll give it a shot if you can explain it to like what parts and wire type I should use.
All you need to make the low-voltage supply is a few windings on one of the transformers.
You can use external rectifiers like shown in the thread I posted or you can use the rectifiers that you pulled from the amp. I generally don't recommend using the rectifiers from the amp because some can be hard to find. I'm not sure what they're using in your amp.
The 1157 lamps are just for added protection.
You'll have to decide which way you want to do this.
Does your 12v power supply have an amp meter?
You can use external rectifiers like shown in the thread I posted or you can use the rectifiers that you pulled from the amp. I generally don't recommend using the rectifiers from the amp because some can be hard to find. I'm not sure what they're using in your amp.
The 1157 lamps are just for added protection.
You'll have to decide which way you want to do this.
Does your 12v power supply have an amp meter?
The other end of the winding will go to either outer leg of each of the rectifiers.
The output leg of the rectifiers will go to the terminals of the rail caps that are not connected to the secondary ground.
It's better to solder to the caps than to risk damaging the pads for the original rectifiers.
The output leg of the rectifiers will go to the terminals of the rail caps that are not connected to the secondary ground.
It's better to solder to the caps than to risk damaging the pads for the original rectifiers.
I didn't see the photo of the circuit. The lamp is better in series with one of the rectifiers instead of ground because if there is a problem, it's likely to cause the current to flow between the outputs and not to ground.
When opening a space, do so with something that cannot damage the windings. A bamboo skewer of a piece of plastic is better than a razor knife. You can even use a piece of fishing line to cut if you can get a strand through.
When opening a space, do so with something that cannot damage the windings. A bamboo skewer of a piece of plastic is better than a razor knife. You can even use a piece of fishing line to cut if you can get a strand through.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.