That is not a fact. There are all kinds of electronics that do exactly the same thing (you can't tell the difference) using different quality components.
There are many places where once below tolerance a components quality makes NO difference.
Internet is full of misinformation. You have to learn to filter them out. Otherwise you will be wasting time and money chasing audiophile myths.
run a pretty basic Stereo widening plugin.
in the signal source
that should give them some magic.
in the signal source
that should give them some magic.
Judging from the images only these two amps don't appear to share anything but being, apparently, class A? How can a difference between them possibly boil down to the quality of components? That seems.. sought, to put it mildly.
And again, for the components you are contemplating, if you think it is possible, then I am confident you will report "sound totally different". To the forum, to your wife, to your friends, to your dog, to whoever is there to listen to your story of replacing power supply caps.
....................... THE END .............................
[BWow!! 🙁
Why so aggressive?
Subject closed.
The end..................][/B]
[BWow!! 🙁
Why so aggressive?
Subject closed.
The end..................][/B]
On a realistic standpoint.
Most of it involves the lifespan of the capacitor.
The difference between actual price should involve.
Temperature 85c or 105c=
like anything else heat is enemy and the units quality to tolerant heat.
Ripple Current capability's =
Depending on the circuit and AC involved
Ripple current will increase internal temperature and reduce life
so the capacitor needs to tolerate the ripple current of the circuit.
ESR=
Equivalent series resistance if high will also increase internal temperature
and should be low as possible.
Thermal resistance =
or the ability for the capacitor to dissipate the internal temperatures
Operation Hours=
Manufacture will rate the capacitor for operating hours under
voltage/ temperature conditions
and ratings can range from 1000 hrs ( cheap) to 10,000 hrs ( expensive)
and since most of the " magical" capacitor tests
never mention any of these real world conditions.
as with all the other snake oil theory and annoying sound descriptions
found in audio.
they are all quickly ignored as usual.
also likely why knowledgeable people on this forum usually quickly jump
to " its a waste of time " because they likely know what is really happening.
and adding gold print to the shrink wrap, doesn't change anything
unless the real data ( temp/ esr / ripple/ hours ) proofs it.
Most of it involves the lifespan of the capacitor.
The difference between actual price should involve.
Temperature 85c or 105c=
like anything else heat is enemy and the units quality to tolerant heat.
Ripple Current capability's =
Depending on the circuit and AC involved
Ripple current will increase internal temperature and reduce life
so the capacitor needs to tolerate the ripple current of the circuit.
ESR=
Equivalent series resistance if high will also increase internal temperature
and should be low as possible.
Thermal resistance =
or the ability for the capacitor to dissipate the internal temperatures
Operation Hours=
Manufacture will rate the capacitor for operating hours under
voltage/ temperature conditions
and ratings can range from 1000 hrs ( cheap) to 10,000 hrs ( expensive)
and since most of the " magical" capacitor tests
never mention any of these real world conditions.
as with all the other snake oil theory and annoying sound descriptions
found in audio.
they are all quickly ignored as usual.
also likely why knowledgeable people on this forum usually quickly jump
to " its a waste of time " because they likely know what is really happening.
and adding gold print to the shrink wrap, doesn't change anything
unless the real data ( temp/ esr / ripple/ hours ) proofs it.
I’m a fanatic for getting the right caps in the right place for sound.
I however agree that there isn’t going to be much of a difference when the parts you’re changing are before the regulator.
Spend your money on a line isolation transformer, and a line filter instead maybe.
I however agree that there isn’t going to be much of a difference when the parts you’re changing are before the regulator.
Spend your money on a line isolation transformer, and a line filter instead maybe.
You would've been the favorite customer for boutique audio businesses. There are bunch of them posting on this forum.[BWow!! 🙁
Why so aggressive?
Subject closed.
The end..................][/B]
Me, being an old fart, and having been in electronics servicing as a career for over 4 decades, I've honestly seen it all,.... done it all,........ heard it all.
To coin an old movie title: "The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly"
I'm primarily of the old school belief of "A Straight Wire With Gain" when it comes to things.
Simplicity - the less components along the signal path, the better.
Because each one contributes its own little "voice of distortion" to the final mix.
And I doubt that using some "high end" esoteric component cap is gonna provide more than a common Sprague brand.
People need to stop listening to the hype.
To coin an old movie title: "The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly"
I'm primarily of the old school belief of "A Straight Wire With Gain" when it comes to things.
Simplicity - the less components along the signal path, the better.
Because each one contributes its own little "voice of distortion" to the final mix.
And I doubt that using some "high end" esoteric component cap is gonna provide more than a common Sprague brand.
People need to stop listening to the hype.
I hate to say it guys, but audio caps are made differently, and serious audio designers of the highest quality equipment take care to use the best caps we can find. IF, any of you critics of cap differences actually found out from the cap manufacturers what the cap differences actually are, you might be surprised. Coupling caps are the most important, and eq caps as well, but even power supply caps can make a difference in the best designs.
There are measurable differences shown decades ago. And the levels measured are far below any human audibility. A well known fact as well - except for golden ears that hear distortion below noise level and improve sound by applying Bye-Byes.
But...
So you acknowledge every component contributes to the sound; what is it that people should base their choice of capacitor on?
The "signal path" is a loop and the supply rail decoupling capacitors are likely part of that loop.
The main difference between "audio grade" anything and "the others" is that for "audio grade" stuff it's impossible to get datasheets and therefor it's impossible to chose the proper part for the application. "Low ESR" comes up a lot for capacitors but this isn't always called for.
The main differentiation between an audio grade capacitor for power supply filtering or decoupling is an ESR (or more correctly an effective series impedance) that is relatively consistent versus frequency in the range of audio frequencies. This property is largely irrelevant for applications outside of audio, i.e. for which ~99.99% of capacitors are made. It is unremarkable that for such a boutique market segment data relating to audio performance of supply capacitors is not commonplace.
Even before an LM317 (or any other) regulator?
Can´t imagine how any small difference, I mean a measured one, can pass through that brickwall.
What defines source impedance: the tightly controlled stable regulator or a passive component ESR before it?
Obviously a properly designed one: we need enough voltage drop across regulator at all times, not 99% ripple dropping below minimum regulator input as, say, when using a 1uF capacitor or some other gross error.
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