I read that for Sparky to support dsd256, it has to do kernel update. For rpi I am not sure does it need to do so.
Sparky, supports native DSD256 via "USBBridge". If you use USB DACs
you can also have that on the RPI.
There is no native DSD via I2S!
DoP128 over I2S will be your limit, as long as I2S won't support higher rates than 384k.
I still havn't lost hope that the editor-in-chief updates the FifoPi manual
accordingly one day. 😉 The same issue and confusion pops up every other week.
you can also have that on the RPI.
There is no native DSD via I2S!
DoP128 over I2S will be your limit, as long as I2S won't support higher rates than 384k.
I still havn't lost hope that the editor-in-chief updates the FifoPi manual
accordingly one day. 😉 The same issue and confusion pops up every other week.
Thank you for the info, it is a big help because I am very confused about it.
Anyway, this question is to Ian that if I want to connect GPIO i2s output of Sparky to GPIO of Fifopi, what cables to use and how do they look like? Is there a Sparky i2s adaptor and also Fifopi i2s adapter like what Ian has built one for rpi?
Hi Ian,
I am getting one dac from fellow member here and I told him to use this fifopi as source. So he agreed to build one AK4493 dac that can accept i2s source from fifopi. He raised a question there is no dsd/pcm signal type and mute signal from fifopi. Would it OK to suggest to provide these signal for enhancement?
The discussion thread is here:
AK4490 USB Dac with dsd support.
I am getting one dac from fellow member here and I told him to use this fifopi as source. So he agreed to build one AK4493 dac that can accept i2s source from fifopi. He raised a question there is no dsd/pcm signal type and mute signal from fifopi. Would it OK to suggest to provide these signal for enhancement?
The discussion thread is here:
AK4490 USB Dac with dsd support.
@soundcheck,
I think @Markw4's advice on removing the sockets makes a lot of sense. I don't see that you need to do anything more than cut the pins flush using good side-cutters. Fingernail clippers will work in a pinch, although that will ruin most.
On soldering, I'd suggest a fine-tip iron instead of a SMD rework station. You won't disturb the nearby and backside components that way. If you look at @simon dart's picture in post 4870 of this thread, there is plenty of pad outside of the NDK's package outline for that manual soldering.
I hope this helps.
Greg in Mississippi
I think @Markw4's advice on removing the sockets makes a lot of sense. I don't see that you need to do anything more than cut the pins flush using good side-cutters. Fingernail clippers will work in a pinch, although that will ruin most.
On soldering, I'd suggest a fine-tip iron instead of a SMD rework station. You won't disturb the nearby and backside components that way. If you look at @simon dart's picture in post 4870 of this thread, there is plenty of pad outside of the NDK's package outline for that manual soldering.
I hope this helps.
Greg in Mississippi
SMT desoldering/resoldering
I have used this mask in the past with good results. Protects surrounding components from getting de-soldered along with the intended ones:
2211-8SQ Techspray | Mouser
I have used this mask in the past with good results. Protects surrounding components from getting de-soldered along with the intended ones:
2211-8SQ Techspray | Mouser
Thx for the hints.
I usually (once in a year 😉 ) use Kapton film to cover nearby parts when using my SMD rework station.
I usually (once in a year 😉 ) use Kapton film to cover nearby parts when using my SMD rework station.
Hi folks.
Does anybody know how much heat over which period of time these NDK clocks can withstand?
I tried to look it up in the DS, couldn't find it.
I intend not to fry (hot air soldering) them tomorrow. 😀
Thx.
Does anybody know how much heat over which period of time these NDK clocks can withstand?
I tried to look it up in the DS, couldn't find it.
I intend not to fry (hot air soldering) them tomorrow. 😀
Thx.
https://www.ndk.com/catalog/AN-CO_PFU_e.pdf
NDK NZ2520SDA oscillators group buy
Good luck, let us know how you get on.
NDK NZ2520SDA oscillators group buy
Good luck, let us know how you get on.
I had the same concern. They are quite hardy. I had to re-solder one of them a couple of times to get a good connection. Then I removed them and installed them onto Ian's adapter using a hot air gun. Still kickin after all that abuse.
Best of luck.
I use a chemistry retort to hold the hot air gun, use it to preheat the board/component then ramp it up to soldering temperature. Though the air flow, distance from board all add to the unknown of actual temperature on the component.
Too much airflow and and a 2x2mm component can be blown off course .
Too much airflow and and a 2x2mm component can be blown off course .
Last edited:
Lot of flux for sure, and i will say to remove only one pad as 95% of material are Redhat book. (understand it as : keep one socket for the second pad area to play with decoupling caps (with iancanada XO adapters) which is important for both frequencies (same ground and power supply). It will give you subjectiv improvment as important than what you plan to do (that makes sense on a layout point of view)
Operation succeeded. 😀
I simply cut away the sockets.
Protected the surrounding parts with Kapton film
Preheated the area with a strong bulb.
And then applied the hot air for 30s.
Done.
A 20 minutes exercise.
Tonight I'll see (hear) if it was worth it. 😉
Thx again for your support.
I simply cut away the sockets.
Protected the surrounding parts with Kapton film
Preheated the area with a strong bulb.
And then applied the hot air for 30s.
Done.
A 20 minutes exercise.
Tonight I'll see (hear) if it was worth it. 😉
Thx again for your support.
I am not that happy with the result for now.
It sounds a bit anemic and slightly congested?
Which of course could also be associated to a cleaner playback.
Do I have to give the NDKs some time to break-in?
Any other ideas?
Thx
It sounds a bit anemic and slightly congested?
Which of course could also be associated to a cleaner playback.
Do I have to give the NDKs some time to break-in?
Any other ideas?
Thx
I wanted to share an update of my setup and experiences with different part options etc. in my sytem. I use LifePo PS - RPI3B+ - FifoPi with ESS controller - 9038DAC - Transformer IV board - XLR out
I started with the default setup with all the standard parts, opamp IV board.
- not bad at all, but nothing special
Changed to transformer board with LL1544A to SE out
- sounds better, more cohesive sound
Changed to XLR out from LL1544A
- big improvement, love it, more detail
Swapped clocks to Crystek, NDK and Accusilicon
- Crystek and NDK not a big difference, preferred Crystek slightly
- Accusilicon imho has a small edge and stays on for now (also easy to try because it is a size for size dry swap with the standard clocks)
Next up is trying output transformers, Sowter and Cinemag on order...
I started with the default setup with all the standard parts, opamp IV board.
- not bad at all, but nothing special
Changed to transformer board with LL1544A to SE out
- sounds better, more cohesive sound
Changed to XLR out from LL1544A
- big improvement, love it, more detail
Swapped clocks to Crystek, NDK and Accusilicon
- Crystek and NDK not a big difference, preferred Crystek slightly
- Accusilicon imho has a small edge and stays on for now (also easy to try because it is a size for size dry swap with the standard clocks)
Next up is trying output transformers, Sowter and Cinemag on order...
@ Soundcheck, i am not a firm believer of burn in etc. but with the clock swaps to my surprise i found burn in time to be very relevant. I was almost sure i made a mistake with the NDK's when listening at first! I decided to keep the dac under power 24/7 for a couple of days (advice of an audio friend) and this did change the sound considerably. Even more so for the Accusilicons, which are extreme in this respect i guess since the maker states a burn in time of 1000hrs. If this is true i'm up for a nice ride, i have 900hrs to go!
I thought the Accusilicon where voltage controlled clocks and did not have an enable/disable pin? But maybe I was looking at the wrong ones? What are the part numbers of the Accusilicon you use?