I’ll let others make DAC recommendations, as I personally use and promote my own Gabster TD1 DAC, and this isn't the right place for me to promote it.
What I can say is that IanCanada’s modules—especially his ultra-low-noise power supplies like UCpure and PurePi, and reclockers like the FifoQ7—are essential in any serious DAC build. They help reduce jitter and noise, bringing out much more detail and musicality. It’s also important to choose a DAC that doesn’t reclock the signal again at an inferior level—or at least allows you to bypass it.
Several members on this forum have built and tested a wide range of DACs—from well-known commercial units to semi-commercial or DIY designs developed by some truly brilliant individuals who pour an incredible amount of effort and passion into their work. Maybe they can help you better having tried and listened to them.
MathieuDoe
I think the Gabster TD1 is an amazing dac and I would highly recommend it. It is a perfect match for Ian Canada stack of any level. I was going to build a balanced (2 Gabster TD1) but have decided to stay with the single ended. You can scale up with Ian’s SC Pure clocks and super capacitor power supplies or build a basic stack, both will sound great.
I think the Gabster TD1 is an amazing dac and I would highly recommend it. It is a perfect match for Ian Canada stack of any level. I was going to build a balanced (2 Gabster TD1) but have decided to stay with the single ended. You can scale up with Ian’s SC Pure clocks and super capacitor power supplies or build a basic stack, both will sound great.
in the meantime the reclockPi, U.FL adapter for DDDAC and U.FL cables arrived (just too short😏) also connected but still have to feed the reclockPi separately with 3.3v.
Next week I'll add the 3.3v and then I'll have a good listen to what it has brought.
Next week I'll add the 3.3v and then I'll have a good listen to what it has brought.
Attachments
Hi everyone,
I need some help from you all. I’m in the process of setting up a streamer that will run via HDMI I2S.
I recently acquired a FifoPi Q7II, an HDMI PRO II, and a UC PURE QUAD.
I initially thought I could use one output of the UC PURE QUAD to supply 3.3V for the FifoPi Q7II and another output to provide 5V to power the Raspberry Pi through the FifoPi Q7II. However, I’m not sure if my UC PURE QUAD unit is defective or if it is designed to work with only a single voltage. I couldn’t configure it to output 3.3V on one channel and 5V on another. The manual isn’t very clear on this point—in fact, it mentions that the unit operates at both 3.3V and 5V, which seems contradictory. I’m uncertain whether I made a mistake in my setup or if the UC PURE QUAD truly operates with only one voltage. If that is the case, it is very frustrating not to be able to utilize two different voltage levels as needed, which defeats the purpose of its use for me.
Assuming the UC PURE QUAD can only operate with one voltage, what do you think would be the best approach to complete my streamer setup?
Are these three approaches feasible? Which option do you think is the best for a streamer setup?
I’m really worried about purchasing another product that might not work as expected, just like what happened with the UC PURE QUAD.
Thank you all very much for your help!
I need some help from you all. I’m in the process of setting up a streamer that will run via HDMI I2S.
I recently acquired a FifoPi Q7II, an HDMI PRO II, and a UC PURE QUAD.
I initially thought I could use one output of the UC PURE QUAD to supply 3.3V for the FifoPi Q7II and another output to provide 5V to power the Raspberry Pi through the FifoPi Q7II. However, I’m not sure if my UC PURE QUAD unit is defective or if it is designed to work with only a single voltage. I couldn’t configure it to output 3.3V on one channel and 5V on another. The manual isn’t very clear on this point—in fact, it mentions that the unit operates at both 3.3V and 5V, which seems contradictory. I’m uncertain whether I made a mistake in my setup or if the UC PURE QUAD truly operates with only one voltage. If that is the case, it is very frustrating not to be able to utilize two different voltage levels as needed, which defeats the purpose of its use for me.
Assuming the UC PURE QUAD can only operate with one voltage, what do you think would be the best approach to complete my streamer setup?
- Use the UC PURE QUAD to supply 3.3V for the FifoPi and purchase another unit (UC PURE MKII or MKIII) to provide 5V to the Raspberry Pi.
- Get a ShieldPi PRO. My understanding is that I could power it with 5V, and it would then provide a 5V output to the FifoPi Q7II. If I have a FifoPi Q7II, a ShieldPi PRO MKIII, and an HDMI PRO II, can I power everything with 5V from the UC PURE QUAD?
- I’m also considering whether powering the Raspberry Pi is as critical as providing 3.3V to the FifoPi Q7II. In this case, I could use a Chinese R-Core 5V power supply along with a UC Conditioner MKII/Pro 5V to power the Raspberry Pi.
Are these three approaches feasible? Which option do you think is the best for a streamer setup?
I’m really worried about purchasing another product that might not work as expected, just like what happened with the UC PURE QUAD.
Thank you all very much for your help!
I was just looking at the manual for the quad last night, because I'm looking to add the OPA861, and I was thinking I could use the quad for the -5+5v but after looking at the manual it appears to me that it does not provide two power sources, but rather a single 5v or 3.3v.
The UCPure Quad only provide one voltage on two outputs. Either 3.3V, either 5V.
For RPi, I think that you don't need UCPure. What is important is to feed the Rpi with one dedicated +5V power supply and a separate +5V for FifoPiQ7II. This board, StationPi SMT, is perfect for that. In my case, I'm using two LinearPi + UcConditionner for +5V and UcPureQUAD for 3.3V.
@Gabster 2000 @JMD3254
Please correct me if I’m wrong, but from what I understand, the TD1 doesn’t have any filtering after the DAC output. That makes me think there’s a risk of the tweeters getting hit with too much energy — especially since it’s a NOS DAC and probably has a fair bit of ultrasonic aliasing.
I just really need to understand why that wouldn’t be an issue before I commit to the TD1…
@JMD3254 Have you compared the TD1 with ES9038Q2M ? If so, what would you say to describe the differences ?
MathieuDoe
At about 6:04
You can adjust the DC offset and there is an "OPA861 no-feedback, no-decoupling capacitors output stage"
Someone else would be better to get advice from, I am just learning.
You can adjust the DC offset and there is an "OPA861 no-feedback, no-decoupling capacitors output stage"
Someone else would be better to get advice from, I am just learning.
If you look at the pictures, you can clearly see it has two inputs for the supercaps, and a single output for power. Unless I am mistaken it can only be configured for either, 5v, 3.3v or I think there's a 15v option as well. In other words, it is only 1 power source as opposed to say his dual linear PSU's.
The TD1 DAC was designed for natural, Pure sound — with no oversampling and no artificial filters. The more you put in the signal pass the more you alter the sound
Yes, some ultrasonic content above 20 kHz can be present, but it’s not a threat to well-designed systems:
- Ultrasonic Energy is Low
Levels above 20 kHz are minimal and low amplitude. - Speakers Naturally Filter
Most tweeters roll off above 20–25 kHz and don’t respond strongly to ultrasonics. - Amps and Crossovers Help
Many amplifiers and speaker crossovers already reduce high-frequency content.
For many years this is not new.
If you’re very protective of your system and concerned about any ultrasonic content, you may want to consider DACs that use oversampling and integrated low-pass filters.
If you believe in keeping the signal pure and taking minor risks then you will love the TD1 like many others.
Thank you for the precision and honest answer. My amplifier bandwidth is up to 90KHz, so I need to check with my speaker manufacturer what he thinks about having frequency above 20KHz.
I want a pure signal 🙂 But I don't want to take any risk with my system at all.
Update!
in the meantime I put the reclockPi in between (has its own 3.3v) same story, the neutron gives a slightly richer sound with a nice dynamic and a bit more detail, the right word is perhaps fuller.
the tent XO is a bit quieter and more refined and a bit less pronounced.
I must mention that with the reclockPi there is now an even nicer ambiance between the whole and the details have become even more refined, of course it is not a day and night difference but it is noticeable.
with that said, I prefer to listen to i2s direct.
Hi @MathieuDoe ,
Thank you very much for your feedback.
I noticed that the UCPure MKII is currently on sale on the website.
Since I already own the UCPure QUAD, do you think it would be worthwhile to use its two 5V outputs to power the Pi and FifoQ7 through a StationPi SMT, and use the UCPure MKII—which I plan to purchase—to supply the 3.3V?
After all, a UCPure MKII is priced almost the same as buying two UCConditioners + two LinearPis. Is my reasoning correct?
I made an error with my initial setup, so I’m hesitant to invest in new boards only to have them fall short of my expectations once again.
Thanks!
You have to buy the ultracapacitors for Ucpures as they are not provided by iancanada, don't forget them in the total cost. Furthermore, I think that the Rpi doesn't need pure power, but I am not sure. Perhaps there would have some benefits here too, you should ask to @iancanada. Don't forget that UcPures have a relay that clicks sometimes. Multiplying those relay could be annonying, especially if the RPi consumes all the ultracapacitors' capacity very quickly.
The speaker manufacturer is confident as my amplifier is a tube amplifier with output transformers and a amp power output of 32W. The tweeter has a 60W nominal power.
On a bigger amp (let say transistor 400W or more) he would strongly recommend not to do it.
@dddac Ref Quick question...... what height in mm has the assembly of linearPI with UC conditioner on top? including standoffs at the bottom ?
I recently took some photos for an upcoming video showing how to fit both the Linear Pi and the UCConditioner on top of each other inside a case with an internal height of just 100mm (10cm). I wanted to share my findings with you, as this is a challenge many of us face—especially when using the pre-soldered capacitor version.
With a 7mm standoff on the bottom, a 20mm standoff on top, and a 2mm nut (since 22mm standoffs are hard to find), you reach 100mm (99mm) in total height. However, keep in mind that many enclosures have around 6mm of internal space lost due to the bottom and lid thickness.
To make things fit more comfortably, and gain 6 to 7 mm I recommend using your own capacitors. I use 60mm-high capacitors rated at 3V instead of the standard 67mm ones. This gives you a better safety margin while still delivering great performance.
Here’s an example of the 60mm capacitors from Mouser:
https://mou.sr/4cIHGWa
if you have the Older UcConditioner you also gain 7 mm
I recently took some photos for an upcoming video showing how to fit both the Linear Pi and the UCConditioner on top of each other inside a case with an internal height of just 100mm (10cm). I wanted to share my findings with you, as this is a challenge many of us face—especially when using the pre-soldered capacitor version.
With a 7mm standoff on the bottom, a 20mm standoff on top, and a 2mm nut (since 22mm standoffs are hard to find), you reach 100mm (99mm) in total height. However, keep in mind that many enclosures have around 6mm of internal space lost due to the bottom and lid thickness.
To make things fit more comfortably, and gain 6 to 7 mm I recommend using your own capacitors. I use 60mm-high capacitors rated at 3V instead of the standard 67mm ones. This gives you a better safety margin while still delivering great performance.
Here’s an example of the 60mm capacitors from Mouser:
https://mou.sr/4cIHGWa
if you have the Older UcConditioner you also gain 7 mm
According to my brother who has three Mark Levinson mono block amps, those Cornell Dubilier caps are what are used in the Mark Levinson amps. They may not have the lowest ESR, but apparently their build quality is superior to all other caps. Although, the caps in those amps are not super caps, so I don't know. Just thought I'd share.
Thanks Gabster for your elaborate answer ! Really appreciate and indeed the kind of info i was looking for….
Is the linearPI pro higher by the way ? It looks the heat sink is thicker…
Is the linearPI pro higher by the way ? It looks the heat sink is thicker…