Asynchronous I2S FIFO project, an ultimate weapon to fight the jitter

@badd99 What Toroidy model are you using? I was looking at getting the medical grade VPM line from Triad, Are the Toroidy better? Also, Why the servo subs all forward facing? I see many that put one rear facing...Kick *** system BTW!! 👊🏼
The toroidy are considered some of the very best, it's the audio supreme grade. I'm in the USA so I had to have them custom make a transformer at 120v for me. They will customize any input and any # of output leads and at any voltage for you via email. You can customize everything about the transformer. More expensive than most, but the transformer is very important and I would definitely buy it again.

Also Danny, the owner of GR research, puts them all forward and said from his testing it doesn't make a big difference because they are very effective with their backwave in the open baffle H frame. I also like the look of them forward, as well.
 
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Hello,
I think a serious transformer should have a screen between primary and secondary winding or use a split bobbin.
You can screen the entire transformer but if garbage from your powerline by transfer from primary to secundary you wont gain a lot.
Most transformers nowadays are made with reducing cost as primary target so you need to make a careful selection.
Greetings, Eduard
P.s i have bought a lamppost in Vietnam that used a steel copper clad wire to connect it to the outlet in the wall.
Greetings, Eduard
Toroidy audio supreme transformers has electrostatic shields between every winding with dedicated ground wires on each, a final magnetic shield, housed in epoxy, and then covered with a stainless steel cover. It's the best you are going to find.
 
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Also Danny, the owner of GR research, puts them all forward and said from his testing it doesn't make a big difference because they are very effective with their backwave in the open baffle H frame. I also like the look of them forward, as well.

The toroidy are considered some of the very best, it's the audio supreme grade. I'm in the USA so I had to have them custom make a transformer at 120v for me. They will customize any input and any # of output leads and at any voltage for you via email. You can customize everything about the transformer. More expensive than most, but the transformer is very important and I would definitely buy it again.

Also Danny, the owner of GR research, puts them all forward and said from his testing it doesn't make a big difference because they are very effective with their backwave in the open baffle H frame. I also like the look of them forward, as well.
Thank you for your response. I checked out their website yesterday, and it looks very interesting. I'm in Canada, and I require 120v as well. Would you be willing to share the specs with me? I need to feed my UC pure as well and you appear to be much more knowledgeable on this subject than I am.

The setup with all three facing like this does indeed look much more aesthetically pleasing.
 
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Where did you get the info there is a new Q7?
Hello,
On the French Audiophonics website there is the new updated Q7 mk2 available.
So when Melorin asked his question 25 December, 3 weeks ago they were already in production or even shipped
Greetings,Eduard
P.s i will put my Q7 at swapmeet when i am back home . It is brand new. I don't want to miss the latest improvements
 
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Hello,
On the French Audiophonics website there is the new updated Q7 mk2 available.
So when Melorin asked his question 25 December, 3 weeks ago they were already in production or even shipped
Greetings,Eduard
P.s i will put my Q7 at swapmeet when i am back home . It is brand new. I don't want to miss the latest improvements
Seems like this one- https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/inte...56.html?search_query=fifopi q7&fast_search=fs . Its not up on Ian's github yet (i think).
 
are you serious about this :rolleyes:
I don't know what kind of voodoo pills he has swallowed, but judging by his pose, he doesn't know either :ROFLMAO:
Aiello... there is some audiophile voodoo here, but maybe a little good stuff too. I noticed Gilbert Yeunge a decade back when his company, Blue Circle Audio, was getting very positive reviews. In addition to really nice solid wood faced chassis, his tricks of the trade appeared to be a lot of capacitance in power supplies, and a lot of vibration dampening with silicone. On this site we are no strangers to big cap PS. Our 3000F power supplies are pretty extreme. But they work. I had seen people experiment with dampening caps by potting caps in wood with silicone. IME there is something to it albeit at that extreme end of diminishing return. So I build my power supplies with caps potted in silicone often set in wood. I think reducing the microphonics has a small positive effect. Everything matters, and this may just be one more chip in the pot. EG, see pic of my PS for bias in a tube amp.
 

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As most of the members here have been predominantly focused just on electrical properties of their builds, some of us, who already reached a certain level of purity in this regard, started to realize that the dragon we're all chasing here is also hiding in other areas like fields (of more than one type) and resonances. After all, everything in this world comes with its inherent frequency that is manifested both in mechanical sense, as well as radiational.
Some materials have strong influence on mechanical resonances of other materials/objects (like metals), which they are connected to, some other materials have strong radiational properties (like crystals). The main point is that all of these resonances, both mechanical and near-field, get more or less translated into each signal (both electrical and digital, which in essence is electrical as well).

Neglecting these and other fundamental principles and influences on the resulting sound of the source components in our chain means that each build will have its own sound signature / properties and deficiencies, which is normal and totally fine, if it suits other components in that particular system and don't hold them back much. But knowing and addressing these forgotten areas mean that we can take our current systems to completely another levels and tune them to our desired perfection.

I've been on a rollercoaster journey of exploration of these other fields for some years and already collected so much eye-opening knowledge that I'm seriously contemplating about starting my own youtube channel to share it with other folks, because there is so much to gain for so little money/effort, mainly with the digital gear, it's just beyond ridiculous.
 
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Hello,
It is kind of logical because there's a lot of pushing us towards buying new boards and if there are enough people who will state that the latest update is a big big step the rest will follow.
We are here to be fooled, we kind of know it but we still obey.
The last year i spend about about 2000 € ( i think) on improving acoustics. My judgement so far made with my 2.2 ( double active subwoofer) , Elipson planel L , Oppo blu ray, Virtue sensation with Lundahl LL 2771 choke input is that it is a game changer. I have both acoustic panels ( from Poland) and diy basstraps ( with the help of a Turkish tailor). I think basstraps do more than acoustic panels. In my city we do have some shops that sell loads of fabrics so i spend rather much on it but i dont regret it.
In one of the photos you see a rather big mirror that was later replaced by some (Danish) wooden furniture from the sixties. Made a nice difference. I think it is not because of the glass but more about creating an irregular surface. After all some art on the furniture is glass.
You can NEVER compensate bad acoustics with a bunch of supercaps
SO make your next investment in acoustics. Let Ian take a one year break and let us all invest money on things were there are real improvements to be made for 90 % of the people here.
I guess most of the people here don't have cupboards filled with books in their living room anymore but you could get from the attic .
I used some panels from Caruso( Italy) to make basstraps,egg crates don't work, you need volume like a small fridge in several corners of the room. Can't help it.

OF course the housing of your digital stacks need improvements too . Some of us have try to persuade others to invest some small change into that but they rather spend big cash on the latest updated prints.
Fifopi Q3 with 1000 € spend on acoustics ( with a little knowledge) sounds way better than a Q7 or even a Q7 mk2 . We will have mk3 before Christmas i guess.
Greetings Eduard
 

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In the github repo - https://github.com/iancanada/DocumentDownload/tree/master/FifoPi/FifoPiQ7 there is only one manual. Unless it is the manual for Q7 MKII. The current document is 2 years old.
Hello,
If you download the Q7 mark2 from the French website you will get the one written in September 2022.
If you compare the layout of the two different Q7 boards you can see there are some change.
Because i am using a small smartphone i cant tell you the differences. They both have a description with specs but you need a split screen to compare them.
Of course the members who just received them could tell us. The old one have its pictures posted already multiple times.
Greetings, Eduard
 
I am thinking of using two 6.6V rails of a LIFEPO4 with stepped down regulators to 5V to power StationPI PRO dirty sides. Is this feasible? Any concerns?
Anyone can recommend very low noise LDOs to do this job (already built/finished product)? I think finding a 3 Amp one for the RPI side is not so easy to find...
 
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Hello Germany,
For the fifopi dirty side a Tent shunt regulator should work i was assured by Guido Tent. I had mine " pimped " a little bit so it can deliver a little extra current. BIG advantage you can put the circuit where it needs to be at the fifopi board itself.
If you move the Raspberry away from the fifopi in a separate box you can use a very basic supply but you will need to invest a little on two? boards to make a connection with hdmi cable possible between the two units.
It is nice to have a silent supply for the Raspberry but the Raspberry itself will still have a bad influence on nearby boards.
I will do this too when i am back home so right now we are waiting for more information about how to do this the best possible way.
If you only want to use one chassis you could try the supply described at the DDDAC site. You will have to separate the output transistor to a separate heatsink. Most Raspberry might need extra current during start up ( few seconds?) but will not use 3 A all the time.
Greetings Eduard