Hello,
If there is a problem first and easiest thing to do is check if there are any warnings given by leds that Ian did put there for a reason.
Don't know if this is an error that could be caused by bad solder joint at the cap connection. Normally the voltage will be divided so each cap will get the same voltage.
So what kind of iron did you use for the supercaps?
Greetings Eduard
If there is a problem first and easiest thing to do is check if there are any warnings given by leds that Ian did put there for a reason.
Don't know if this is an error that could be caused by bad solder joint at the cap connection. Normally the voltage will be divided so each cap will get the same voltage.
So what kind of iron did you use for the supercaps?
Greetings Eduard
Thank you for your answer.I am not using the USB C port, but connected the button to J3 of the StationPi Pro. Currently making changes again, so no picture.
Can q3 upgrade only one clock?If yes, is it possible (for DSD-only use) to replace only the 45 one by an SC-Pure 45 clock?
Yes, it is possible. You can upgrade with only one SC-Pure 45 and keep the other 49 one.
If no, would the combination SC-Pure 45 and stock 24 be a problem?
You have no problem combine SC-Pure 45 and a 24 clock as long as you have a FifoPi Q7
I think what the ecosystem needs is some kind of power distribution system for the pi and the modules. The use of the infernal USB-C plugs for HATs, PI's and associated devices in general does not make for an elegant solution in a HIFI like enclosure.
I don't generally like the enormous stacks of HATs.
I think I'm going to try and figure something out with the Station PI with a flatcable attached to the HAT side, and the HATs themselves in a separate section of the enclosure. I also need to find a way to elegantly break out the Pi USB, HDMI and so on to the rear of such an enclosure.
Furthermore I think that although power supplies are important, far too much community attention goes to ever bigger batteries, supercaps, more supercaps, supercaps with batteries, and so on.
In the mean time, it's a plank with a touchscreen !
View attachment 1256817
Good project
Congratulations!
What screen and software are you using?
Ian
Thanks for pointing it out. Unfortunately i'm unable to get the solder out so I may have to buy a new board and capacitors? The streamer is working now, should i shut it down till i fix this?I don't know if anyone has already suggested this, you need to fix this.
is just a well-intentioned tip.
I'm using this one that gabster suggested in his video. Is there a better alternative?Hello,
If there is a problem first and easiest thing to do is check if there are any warnings given by leds that Ian did put there for a reason.
Don't know if this is an error that could be caused by bad solder joint at the cap connection. Normally the voltage will be divided so each cap will get the same voltage.
So what kind of iron did you use for the supercaps?
Greetings Eduard
I'm also using this flux
Hello,
Most of the time desoldering is harder than soldering. Maybe it can only be done with a desoldering station but that one will need to have the same power rating.
I never used flux before but i know during desoldering you need to add solder to get it flowing.
Maybe try reflowing first to check if the problem is a bad joint.
Usually with this kind of soldering job everything should be perfect to get a perfect joint. I have never used flux before. But what i do is take care the areas to be soldered are clean and always use solder containing lead.
Greetings Eduard
P.s Ian or one of the expert could tell you if it is a bad joint causing this problem
Most of the time desoldering is harder than soldering. Maybe it can only be done with a desoldering station but that one will need to have the same power rating.
I never used flux before but i know during desoldering you need to add solder to get it flowing.
Maybe try reflowing first to check if the problem is a bad joint.
Usually with this kind of soldering job everything should be perfect to get a perfect joint. I have never used flux before. But what i do is take care the areas to be soldered are clean and always use solder containing lead.
Greetings Eduard
P.s Ian or one of the expert could tell you if it is a bad joint causing this problem
The screen is a Waveshare 7.9" HDMI LCD, the viewing angles are atrocious but it was cheap. It's powered from the Pi USB. Software is the Touch Panel plug-in from GVolt included with Volumio ( use a mirror, the standard repo is broken), and configured as described on the Waveshare wiki. I do need a better solution for the HDMI cable.Good project
Congratulations!
What screen and software are you using?
Ian
There have been a few remarks made about isolating the dirty Pi in a separate enclosure.
Until 2022 is was running this stack with a Beaglebone Black and Soekris R2R DAC where the DAC is shielded from the BBB by an aluminium divider.
Power supply are individual transformers so the only real electrical connection was I2S although that was even isolated.
End of 2022 i bought a Lyngdorf TDAI-1120 which needs SPDIF so I did a quick and dirty change making an SPDIF output from the BBB but this is not isolated.
Here the new IanCanada set will come in to replace it all .. will still divide the dirty and celan side using a ribbon cable to pass the divider.
Maybe my design can be inspiration to others .. enjoy 😉
I will post the final build with the IanCanada parts but it will take 1-2 months.
Schematic:
Hardware:
I2S Isolator IL715: for reducing EMI is also added a ferrite core.
Until 2022 is was running this stack with a Beaglebone Black and Soekris R2R DAC where the DAC is shielded from the BBB by an aluminium divider.
Power supply are individual transformers so the only real electrical connection was I2S although that was even isolated.
End of 2022 i bought a Lyngdorf TDAI-1120 which needs SPDIF so I did a quick and dirty change making an SPDIF output from the BBB but this is not isolated.
Here the new IanCanada set will come in to replace it all .. will still divide the dirty and celan side using a ribbon cable to pass the divider.
Maybe my design can be inspiration to others .. enjoy 😉
I will post the final build with the IanCanada parts but it will take 1-2 months.
Schematic:

Hardware:






I2S Isolator IL715: for reducing EMI is also added a ferrite core.



Last edited:
@eduard could you give some info where can I get updates about it? Is there a thread on this forum or somewehere else? Thank you!I would wait a few months for the DDDAC mk3 to appear.
Hello,
Most of the time desoldering is harder than soldering. Maybe it can only be done with a desoldering station but that one will need to have the same power rating.
I never used flux before but i know during desoldering you need to add solder to get it flowing.
Maybe try reflowing first to check if the problem is a bad joint.
Usually with this kind of soldering job everything should be perfect to get a perfect joint. I have never used flux before. But what i do is take care the areas to be soldered are clean and always use solder containing lead.
Greetings Eduard
P.s Ian or one of the expert could tell you if it is a bad joint causing this problem
can be repaired, use a good soldering iron (at least 80 watts) with a fairly large tip, add a small amount of solder to the tip and then let it flow again, the outputs of the capasitors are quite large so it will take some time to melt the tin again.Thanks for pointing it out. Unfortunately i'm unable to get the solder out so I may have to buy a new board and capacitors? The streamer is working now, should i shut it down till i fix this?
It is best to first practice soldering with the same type of connection so that you get the hang of it.
note, you shouldn't do this too often because then things will really break.
I am sorry for my English.
Fifopi q3 clock can use different clock like 45 for accusillicon and 49 for sc pure?
Fifopi q3 clock can use different clock like 45 for accusillicon and 49 for sc pure?
.....no that is for the OLD DDDAC, the new one is coming ;-)@SimonJ seems like "The Last Time Buy and Web shop are now closed" 🙁
yesI am sorry for my English.
Fifopi q3 clock can use different clock like 45 for accusillicon and 49 for sc pure?
Hi,
a quick question regarding the J4 connector on the FiFoPiQ7 for the MonitorPi connection. The documentation states it is a four wire connector but I only received a cable with four PH2.0mm pin connectors on both sides but with only two wires attached. Is it the right cable or do I need to purchase the four wire cable?
a quick question regarding the J4 connector on the FiFoPiQ7 for the MonitorPi connection. The documentation states it is a four wire connector but I only received a cable with four PH2.0mm pin connectors on both sides but with only two wires attached. Is it the right cable or do I need to purchase the four wire cable?
Hello ,
Recently there was some information about getting the dirty Rpi outside of your audio gear. There was a list of needed parts stationpi smt needed but not available anymore in France.
Use stationpi pro instead?
It is a shame that there are so many boards available. Why not reduce the number of boards.
Someone please open a thread about a set up that uses an external RPI and a hdmi connection to the rest of the gear. That gear will be connected to a DDDAC, the only true diy audiophile dac on the planet.
Greetings Eduard
Recently there was some information about getting the dirty Rpi outside of your audio gear. There was a list of needed parts stationpi smt needed but not available anymore in France.
Use stationpi pro instead?
It is a shame that there are so many boards available. Why not reduce the number of boards.
Someone please open a thread about a set up that uses an external RPI and a hdmi connection to the rest of the gear. That gear will be connected to a DDDAC, the only true diy audiophile dac on the planet.
Greetings Eduard
Any stationpi can be used for that but you don’t have to use it either as just put the Pi into a case that is sold on amazon if you like.
i would focus on building your system outside of the DDDAC tower you made to prove it all works then integrate it…….just a suggestion as I don’t feel you have made any of Ian modules work? Maybe I am wrong…..
i would focus on building your system outside of the DDDAC tower you made to prove it all works then integrate it…….just a suggestion as I don’t feel you have made any of Ian modules work? Maybe I am wrong…..
No worries. The two wires are just for sending FifoPi information to MonitorPiPro. The other two wires are the Rxd and Vcc, which are not used for this application.Hi,
a quick question regarding the J4 connector on the FiFoPiQ7 for the MonitorPi connection. The documentation states it is a four wire connector but I only received a cable with four PH2.0mm pin connectors on both sides but with only two wires attached. Is it the right cable or do I need to purchase the four wire cable?
Ian
This is great news and help reduce the reqmnts for a clean RPi PSU. I haven’t wandered into HDMI connections yet, but now more possibilities.….In my won configurations, I started to use the RPi externally with an isolator the HdmiPi. And then connect to the ReceiverPiPro or DDC through the HDMI cable. Ground loop was cut and the EMI noise eliminated significantly. RPi no long needs a good power supply because of the isolation, standard USB power addapter would be OK…..
- Home
- Source & Line
- Digital Line Level
- Asynchronous I2S FIFO project, an ultimate weapon to fight the jitter