In our small group, the Sica drivers have been very popular for a few years. I think it started with the quintessence 2.5 back then, that was in 2014:
Quintessenz 2.5 (Beitrag zum Tymphany Battle 2014) – Donhighend Audio
Sica offers a very good price-performance ratio and many drivers are still Made in Italy. At least that's how they are advertised.
Quintessenz 2.5 (Beitrag zum Tymphany Battle 2014) – Donhighend Audio
Sica offers a very good price-performance ratio and many drivers are still Made in Italy. At least that's how they are advertised.
How come ?
HEDD audio uses cabinets, drivers (except tweeters) and amplifiers made in Asia and still has Made in Germany on the back.
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Dunno for sure but sometimes there are technicalities where it says "designed and assembled in..." It's quite common in Canada. I was just looking at something at work that has that on it today. Dewalt Tools have products that are "assembled in USA" but using imported parts IIRC... In other industries some stuff just needs a certain percentage to be made domestically to qualify etc. Recall reading "organic" in some places isn't 100%. It goes on.
As to how that may apply to Germany or Italy is beyond me, but it seems the term "Made in..." is open to interpretation.
As to how that may apply to Germany or Italy is beyond me, but it seems the term "Made in..." is open to interpretation.
I have found a verdict: With "Made in Germany" components can also be manufactured in other countries if the work is done in Germany, which has the highest value-adding effect.
For example, individual engine parts can be manufactured anywhere if the assembly and adjustment takes place in Germany.
For example, individual engine parts can be manufactured anywhere if the assembly and adjustment takes place in Germany.
The "made in (fill in the blank)" is really a game. Most countries have regulations that say "if the majority of the value added is done in country X it can be labeled as made in country X". Seems reasonable. However in almost all cases it is up to the manufacturer to determine the value of each manufacturing step. So if the manufacturer deems that the most valuable step was printing the label that's fine. Just make sure the label is printed in the country you'd like the product to be "made" in.
In the semiconductor business, for example, you can have a product designed in Ireland, laid out in Singapore, wafers built in Taiwan, wafers tested in China, parts packaged in Korea (with plastic packaging material from Japan), and final part testing in the USA. This part can be called "made in the USA" for American markets, "made in Ireland" for EU markets, or "made in China" for Asian markets. All of this is perfectly legitimate, yet crazy.
In the semiconductor business, for example, you can have a product designed in Ireland, laid out in Singapore, wafers built in Taiwan, wafers tested in China, parts packaged in Korea (with plastic packaging material from Japan), and final part testing in the USA. This part can be called "made in the USA" for American markets, "made in Ireland" for EU markets, or "made in China" for Asian markets. All of this is perfectly legitimate, yet crazy.
Of course. But "Made in Germany" was or is a quality seal worldwide. In the "Made in Country Index" it was number 1 for the highest quality products for decades. Nobody would think of writing a Made in Taiwan on a Made in Germany product in order to sell it better in Asia. The opposite would be the case.
But let's end this, it has nothing to do with the actual topic.
But let's end this, it has nothing to do with the actual topic.
Rese66... I assume you are made in Germany 
Well... I have some quistions regarding the box.
1. I bought the rather thick damping material from TLHP (~45mm.) and i'am not sure where to actually line up the inside of the boxes with it? Do we line up all walls except frontbaffle?
2. Did you screw the backside of the tweeter champer on? for easy access to the crossovers? - Maybe if you did can you attach a picture of backside?
Thank's...
Rgds; Jesper.
Well... I have some quistions regarding the box.
1. I bought the rather thick damping material from TLHP (~45mm.) and i'am not sure where to actually line up the inside of the boxes with it? Do we line up all walls except frontbaffle?
2. Did you screw the backside of the tweeter champer on? for easy access to the crossovers? - Maybe if you did can you attach a picture of backside?
Thank's...
Rgds; Jesper.
Hi Jesper,
you recognized that well.
Unfortunately, there is still a certain shame in Germany when it comes to being proud of one's home country. The Bavarians are a little different and luckily I'm one.
To your questions:
1. Cover all walls inside with the material. Not every square centimeter has to be covered, but about 90% of the surface should be covered. In addition, apply 2-3 layers of the material in the lower area. This should come very close to my variant.
2. Yes, I screwed in the back wall of the tweeter or x-over chamber. As you have already correctly pointed out, you always have easy access to the x-over.
Unfortunatly I have no Pictures of it, but it is nothing spectacular.
We're in DIY here and of course you can also adjust it a little afterwards to suit your own taste. I am also happy to help. In one case, for example, we replaced the 6.8µF cap in the high range with a ~ 5µF cap in order to take out a little bit of sharpness in the presence area. In the case of poor sound recordings (AC / DC for example) this can make the sound more pleasant.
The Asathor is made to be placed relatively close to the wall. This is how the speakers are in my living room. If the speakers are rather free in the room with more than 80cm of air in their backs, it can make sense to reduce the treble a little in order to restore balance.
Therefore, in another case, the parallel resistance was changed from 1.8 to 1.2 ohms. This lowers the entire treble a little.
I am therefore not only happy about positive feedback from the builders, but also if we achieve an individually suitable result.
you recognized that well.
Unfortunately, there is still a certain shame in Germany when it comes to being proud of one's home country. The Bavarians are a little different and luckily I'm one.
To your questions:
1. Cover all walls inside with the material. Not every square centimeter has to be covered, but about 90% of the surface should be covered. In addition, apply 2-3 layers of the material in the lower area. This should come very close to my variant.
2. Yes, I screwed in the back wall of the tweeter or x-over chamber. As you have already correctly pointed out, you always have easy access to the x-over.
Unfortunatly I have no Pictures of it, but it is nothing spectacular.
We're in DIY here and of course you can also adjust it a little afterwards to suit your own taste. I am also happy to help. In one case, for example, we replaced the 6.8µF cap in the high range with a ~ 5µF cap in order to take out a little bit of sharpness in the presence area. In the case of poor sound recordings (AC / DC for example) this can make the sound more pleasant.
The Asathor is made to be placed relatively close to the wall. This is how the speakers are in my living room. If the speakers are rather free in the room with more than 80cm of air in their backs, it can make sense to reduce the treble a little in order to restore balance.
Therefore, in another case, the parallel resistance was changed from 1.8 to 1.2 ohms. This lowers the entire treble a little.
I am therefore not only happy about positive feedback from the builders, but also if we achieve an individually suitable result.
Hi Rese...
Thank's for answering my quistions so fine!
In post #124 i have placed a picture of one of the crossover's i did, and they are not that hard to change parts on for sure... -I'am aware that it's possible to change part's for one's taste but i didn't know that it could change sharp/sibiliance etc... this is very good information too.
Last year i have used a LOT of time with my DSP engine (Camilladsp, Raspberry pi & squeezelite / piCorePlayer along mine UMIK mic.) to adjust all sort's of thing's, and looking forward to try it on thoose speaker's when they are done.
I just pickup'ed my mdf / hdf sheet's, waiting for a little bit better weather (have to cut, route etc. outside here, but i do have the right tool's through)
Jesper.
Thank's for answering my quistions so fine!
I will ... don't you worry
In post #124 i have placed a picture of one of the crossover's i did, and they are not that hard to change parts on for sure... -I'am aware that it's possible to change part's for one's taste but i didn't know that it could change sharp/sibiliance etc... this is very good information too.
Last year i have used a LOT of time with my DSP engine (Camilladsp, Raspberry pi & squeezelite / piCorePlayer along mine UMIK mic.) to adjust all sort's of thing's, and looking forward to try it on thoose speaker's when they are done.
I just pickup'ed my mdf / hdf sheet's, waiting for a little bit better weather (have to cut, route etc. outside here, but i do have the right tool's through)
Jesper.
@Rese
Regarding the horn compartment on your site you state that you filled the compartment with quarz/silicate sand to dampen the horn. Was this more effective than using alu-butyl sheets on the horn? And how did you do this. Did you leave the crossover behind uncovered, or did you just tilt the speaker and filled the compartment with the crossover and then closed it up by screwing the backplate in place? If so, how did you seal the compartment, dual silicone lines and pressure fit with backplate?
I've had good experience using an attenuator with horns, where would you place that in the horn crossover? Where the 6.8uF is?
Cheers
Regarding the horn compartment on your site you state that you filled the compartment with quarz/silicate sand to dampen the horn. Was this more effective than using alu-butyl sheets on the horn? And how did you do this. Did you leave the crossover behind uncovered, or did you just tilt the speaker and filled the compartment with the crossover and then closed it up by screwing the backplate in place? If so, how did you seal the compartment, dual silicone lines and pressure fit with backplate?
I've had good experience using an attenuator with horns, where would you place that in the horn crossover? Where the 6.8uF is?
Cheers
What is an "attenuator"? I am not familiar with the term.
I didn't fill my chamber with sand, that's an option to make it a little better. Alubutyl is also a great option. But it is not absolutely necessary.
You don't have to cover the x-over with the sand filling, but it makes it much more difficult to change something.
@Jesper:
Just get in touch if there are any questions.
If you change the part values in the X-Over, the sonic result also changes automatically. In contrast to the exchange for supposedly better (more expensive) parts - they only change the impression in the brain. And the thickness of your wallet.
DSPs are great, but they only work well if the concept is consistent and the operator knows what he is doing. You can quickly make things worse. We noticed that again last weekend.
I didn't fill my chamber with sand, that's an option to make it a little better. Alubutyl is also a great option. But it is not absolutely necessary.
You don't have to cover the x-over with the sand filling, but it makes it much more difficult to change something.
@Jesper:
Just get in touch if there are any questions.
If you change the part values in the X-Over, the sonic result also changes automatically. In contrast to the exchange for supposedly better (more expensive) parts - they only change the impression in the brain. And the thickness of your wallet.
DSPs are great, but they only work well if the concept is consistent and the operator knows what he is doing. You can quickly make things worse. We noticed that again last weekend.
Thanks Austy,
the Ewave goes in the same direction, but I don't know much about this speaker yet so I can't make a comparison.
Thank you too, prairieboy.
The L-Pad would have to replace both resistors in the tweeter network, but that doesn't really make sense as it affects the overall result. Unless you only use 2 connections, then you could probably replace the 1.8 ohm resistor with such a regulator. But it would have to have an effective range of 0.5-3 ohms in order to be able to use it sensibly. At this point, small differences in the resistance value make a big difference in terms of sound. So it would be quite difficult to set the two speakers the same way.
In addition, these mechanical controls will no longer work perfectly over time. I would therefore rather advise against it.
the Ewave goes in the same direction, but I don't know much about this speaker yet so I can't make a comparison.
Thank you too, prairieboy.
The L-Pad would have to replace both resistors in the tweeter network, but that doesn't really make sense as it affects the overall result. Unless you only use 2 connections, then you could probably replace the 1.8 ohm resistor with such a regulator. But it would have to have an effective range of 0.5-3 ohms in order to be able to use it sensibly. At this point, small differences in the resistance value make a big difference in terms of sound. So it would be quite difficult to set the two speakers the same way.
In addition, these mechanical controls will no longer work perfectly over time. I would therefore rather advise against it.