I have resolved problem with my bass panel. I re-check for an open loop in the bass panel and i found an open strip in the region where i have a sparkle. I close the loop open with alluminio for kitchen and scotch. Now the panel is ok. This solution can applied to resolve open that are under the frame.
I have found that some conductive paint works great (Best) for this type of repair.
As I posted earlier I used a silver based ink from Circuit Works on mine.
I did the repair back in 2000 and it still works today only that more bad spots have developed since then.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/196631-apogee-speakers-construction.html#post3409337
Tyu.....
Great stuff!
I am not unhappy with the stock woofer performance, either. It's just that I thought. It would be fun to try alternatives. The Slant 8 uses the same woofer, I think, in a ported cabinet. I don't intend to remove the ribbons until I have consider that I have achieved an improvement.
I have tried subs also, but have a hard time with room effects. But now I have a minidsp, integration would probably be easier. In fact, I have been running the Centaurs biamped with the minidsp and 4 Symasym amps and room effects have been pretty much cancelled with a little equalization on the minidsp. Who knows, I may even put the the stock passive crossovers in and add a couple of subs via the minidsp.
Many thanks for the tips on the ribbon removal. Tension? I guess if it sounds good, it is good.
Cheers
Peter
Great stuff!
I am not unhappy with the stock woofer performance, either. It's just that I thought. It would be fun to try alternatives. The Slant 8 uses the same woofer, I think, in a ported cabinet. I don't intend to remove the ribbons until I have consider that I have achieved an improvement.
I have tried subs also, but have a hard time with room effects. But now I have a minidsp, integration would probably be easier. In fact, I have been running the Centaurs biamped with the minidsp and 4 Symasym amps and room effects have been pretty much cancelled with a little equalization on the minidsp. Who knows, I may even put the the stock passive crossovers in and add a couple of subs via the minidsp.
Many thanks for the tips on the ribbon removal. Tension? I guess if it sounds good, it is good.
Cheers
Peter
Centaurs & minor..........have same ribbon right.........an the Centaurs crossover is just like the Stage that get some safty from being over driven by it crossover..........but the Centaurs got someing going on......look at the pic of the stage......then we well look at the Centaurs.....
Jr
Thanks for always being there with great info....conductive paint pin...go to youtube.......guy well show how it work.....way cool....make your owen tube boards...........great fix for ribbons.......
Now back .............Centaurs.....
next pic
Jr
Thanks for always being there with great info....conductive paint pin...go to youtube.......guy well show how it work.....way cool....make your owen tube boards...........great fix for ribbons.......
Now back .............Centaurs.....
next pic
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Centaurs..... crossover go here for the pic......wont lode here...for me
http://www.integracoustics.com/MUG/MUG/tweaks/apogee/centaur_xo.jpg
Only fried 26" mid-tweeter i have saw...... were on two diff pr of......Centaurs...
Wonder WHY.......thay move the sall coil.......2.8mh....it the frist thing the mid-tweeter sees............. look like it would not get safty this way.....
Look on the stage ...the smaller coil.....0.0288mh.....is in the trap after the 70mf cap caps??...........can anyone say why?
I have been think i would put the stage cross setup in the Centaur...There is NO mid-tweeter Move Ment in the Minors........an some mods i have put on the stages has got more output an less movement........less movement give better sound...........Long Live Apogees.....
But i cant stop playing My Acoustats M3 runing on about 6k bias...Wow...... What a trip...have one ever day if you can...........thay just sound Sooooooooo.....gooooooooood....Acoustats are just a lot more of every thing.........sweet
Thanks for Any An All info on Ribbons an ESLs...........
http://www.integracoustics.com/MUG/MUG/tweaks/apogee/centaur_xo.jpg
Only fried 26" mid-tweeter i have saw...... were on two diff pr of......Centaurs...
Wonder WHY.......thay move the sall coil.......2.8mh....it the frist thing the mid-tweeter sees............. look like it would not get safty this way.....
Look on the stage ...the smaller coil.....0.0288mh.....is in the trap after the 70mf cap caps??...........can anyone say why?
I have been think i would put the stage cross setup in the Centaur...There is NO mid-tweeter Move Ment in the Minors........an some mods i have put on the stages has got more output an less movement........less movement give better sound...........Long Live Apogees.....
But i cant stop playing My Acoustats M3 runing on about 6k bias...Wow...... What a trip...have one ever day if you can...........thay just sound Sooooooooo.....gooooooooood....Acoustats are just a lot more of every thing.........sweet
Thanks for Any An All info on Ribbons an ESLs...........
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I just pulled the Vifa woofer from my Centaur. First time the grille has been removed!
Plenty of white powdery corrosion on the spiders, but the terminal strip is covered in corrosion. Some powder has fallen to the back of the voice coil.
Peter
Plenty of white powdery corrosion on the spiders, but the terminal strip is covered in corrosion. Some powder has fallen to the back of the voice coil.
Peter
Be sure an push the white stufing back away from the back of the driver. so that when you put the drivers back it dose not hit the back of the magnt....let it breth a littel....sound better also...well to me...
An if you like me got the grells off an there just the woles ......in the wood covers just take a large swru driver ...make the them biger....dont tare the cloth... an you can pop them on an off ezey............fun with Apogees.......... still sound killer.... thay well rock
An if you like me got the grells off an there just the woles ......in the wood covers just take a large swru driver ...make the them biger....dont tare the cloth... an you can pop them on an off ezey............fun with Apogees.......... still sound killer.... thay well rock
Here are a couple of pics of one of the original Vifa woofers. The other one isn't quite as badly corroded.
I bought the speakers new in Atlanta in 1991 and this is the first time that the grilles have been removed.
Considering this is a (very well) sealed enclosure, I am very surprised to find this level of corrosion on the frames. I believe they are cast magnesium. I live in a sub-tropical climate, have several pairs of speakers, some in ported cabinets, some just naked in storage and none of them exhibit any corrosion at all. The others are either cast aluminum or steel frames, but some dating back to 1960s.
The only time that the Centaurs were close to a salt environment is when they were built in MA. Maybe a little packet of silica gel might have been appropriate at installation.
Sonically, the Vifas seem OK, but in the meantime, while I try to clean them, I have installed 6.5" Peerless Nomex woofers with the aid of MDF adapters that I fabricated to mount them in the existing 8" speaker hole, suitably gasketed. I must say they sound pretty darn good, crossed and equalized at 800Hz with the minidsp. They fall a little short in the bass department, but not by much. I get a fair amount of room gain at about 40Hz, but I think I may put a subwoofer or two into the system and see how it does.
Anyone have any theories about this amount of corrosion?
peter
I bought the speakers new in Atlanta in 1991 and this is the first time that the grilles have been removed.
Considering this is a (very well) sealed enclosure, I am very surprised to find this level of corrosion on the frames. I believe they are cast magnesium. I live in a sub-tropical climate, have several pairs of speakers, some in ported cabinets, some just naked in storage and none of them exhibit any corrosion at all. The others are either cast aluminum or steel frames, but some dating back to 1960s.
The only time that the Centaurs were close to a salt environment is when they were built in MA. Maybe a little packet of silica gel might have been appropriate at installation.
Sonically, the Vifas seem OK, but in the meantime, while I try to clean them, I have installed 6.5" Peerless Nomex woofers with the aid of MDF adapters that I fabricated to mount them in the existing 8" speaker hole, suitably gasketed. I must say they sound pretty darn good, crossed and equalized at 800Hz with the minidsp. They fall a little short in the bass department, but not by much. I get a fair amount of room gain at about 40Hz, but I think I may put a subwoofer or two into the system and see how it does.
Anyone have any theories about this amount of corrosion?
peter
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Wow..........i have seen this before....i was in the Audio bizz....1980s90s....are the two woffer the same?.........mostur got into the the poly fill......an was trapet in the box........Maybe...knowone well ever know for sure....
I know you have pull open the crossover, coils, are thay funky also ...?.......but as i said the Stock driver have a great sound...glad yours are working ok...even if you do put others in....youll have the stock!
thanks for the info
I know you have pull open the crossover, coils, are thay funky also ...?.......but as i said the Stock driver have a great sound...glad yours are working ok...even if you do put others in....youll have the stock!
thanks for the info
The other woofer is not quite as bad. Good point about the trapped moisture at assembly.
The damage is done now, but I think I will take out all stuffing of the cabinets and let it stay in the air conditioned room for a while before I reassemble. After more listening with the smaller woofers, I think that the originals are better, and there is a lot to be said about leaving the passive crossovers in. Back to square one- again.
Cheers
Peter
The damage is done now, but I think I will take out all stuffing of the cabinets and let it stay in the air conditioned room for a while before I reassemble. After more listening with the smaller woofers, I think that the originals are better, and there is a lot to be said about leaving the passive crossovers in. Back to square one- again.
Cheers
Peter
By the way, the crossovers are fine. No contamination at all. Of course, they are in a non-sealed section under the speaker enclosure.
The crossover are as good if not better than what useds today.in higher end Audio.....an sound great....well to me.............did you leave the crossover post board open...... it work great as a port...
In the 90s i got a pr of Minors........then Apogee came out with a port mod. for them....so i called an got one sent........took 40 days....how knows why..........an all it was was a 2"X 1" deep... hell the MDF is that thick.....Just a hole would have done the same thing....but it looket better.........but makes a big diff....gives more bass an ....more deth in the sound stage......Some Mods i have saw.... say to pull some of the fill out of the box......i have not done this..... but like the post board port ...then i can go back to seald all stock sound if i like............thanks
In the 90s i got a pr of Minors........then Apogee came out with a port mod. for them....so i called an got one sent........took 40 days....how knows why..........an all it was was a 2"X 1" deep... hell the MDF is that thick.....Just a hole would have done the same thing....but it looket better.........but makes a big diff....gives more bass an ....more deth in the sound stage......Some Mods i have saw.... say to pull some of the fill out of the box......i have not done this..... but like the post board port ...then i can go back to seald all stock sound if i like............thanks
The 8" Centaur crossover is in a totally separate compartment and leaving the crossover enclosure open does not have any effect on the sound. The minor must be different. I have contemplated putting a port in the front under the grille, but with an enclosure volume of only .75 cu ft, there is little to be gained with the 8" woofer, but the 6-1/2" would benefit.
Having fun.
Peter
Having fun.
Peter
Funny not in my Centaur,an the minor is open also...........other owner may have mod the box to get it a littel biger biger.........gofig.......thanks for your time
Symasym amps
Here are a couple of pics of one of the Symasym amps I built into the Centaur stands. I initially biamped them but, though "different" than with the passive crossovers, not sure I would say "better".
I've put the passives back in now and have cleaned the Vifa drivers. Presently playing through my F5 clone. Very smooth, but they do lack dynamics in the lower octaves. Still my reference for silky coherence though. I was amazed at how much stuffing is in the enclosures.
Having fun.
Peter
Here are a couple of pics of one of the Symasym amps I built into the Centaur stands. I initially biamped them but, though "different" than with the passive crossovers, not sure I would say "better".
I've put the passives back in now and have cleaned the Vifa drivers. Presently playing through my F5 clone. Very smooth, but they do lack dynamics in the lower octaves. Still my reference for silky coherence though. I was amazed at how much stuffing is in the enclosures.
Having fun.
Peter
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Hi guys, does anyone know about Apogee duetta signature magnets grade? Is Ferrite grade Y30 ok? Gauss =1200. Thank you in advance and sorry for my bad English.
Hi guys, I have one pair of Apogee duetta signature. some of the magnets were broken and I intend to buy some ferrite magnets to replace. The problems is I am not so sure about the grade of the magnet. One of supplier suggested me to buy Y30, gauss 1200. Is it ok? Please advise me. Thank you all.
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