Art, You just gave me the magic word I didn't think of,"ROD", I believe problem solved on corrugation. Thanks Al
Hi DeltaStar
I build one with 6u mylar and it didn't work out.
You get very small wrinkles between the aluminum and they buzz.
I also build it with sailing cloth very light with out corrugation and still use them.
And I build it with 26u Kapton also with out corrugation.
Didn't hear any difference between the Kapton and sail cloth.
Rob
I build one with 6u mylar and it didn't work out.
You get very small wrinkles between the aluminum and they buzz.
I also build it with sailing cloth very light with out corrugation and still use them.
And I build it with 26u Kapton also with out corrugation.
Didn't hear any difference between the Kapton and sail cloth.
Rob
Great. I'll take two Cal Sig panels when you get a chance! 🙂
What's your plan? Traditional route with Kapton or ? Scintilla or ?
Art, First off I gotta make a 24" corrigator that works properly, secondly the steel templates are a must, then the fun will begin, I've got lots of Apogee's here to play with 🙂, I want to try a double sided 1ohm ribbon on 1 set of Scins, also Duetta sigs using 1ohm, and double sided Diva's as in the studio series. This will be my sincere project after the crop is off this fall. I would like to know what size of magnets or cals have, width and length , also row space between them. Curious if they fall suit. Al
Rob, Sail cloth 🙂, you working on Apogee's?
Rob, Sail cloth 🙂, you working on Apogee's?
If you have lots of Apogees to play with, send me the measurements so I can build a diaphragm for you. Only £5 . Giving all measurements of magnets, holes, and surround etc.Accuracy is paramount.
I don't see why not, Are you interested then. I need all the accurate measurements of the position of magnets, holes, cut out, etc. Use 4 or more pluses on your surround and put them on the mylar, with all the positions required for the foil placement. This will make it easier for you to put the diaphragm in position! Accuracy is essential. I always use + signs for positioning after marking all relevant required positions. Hope this easy to follow.!!
Hy, i want to share my problem with bass pannel of Apogee Duetta. I have the rx speaker that buzz and i try to fix them with the silicon solution. Ok all well, the buzz isn't. But only with certain program and at very high volume the pannel resonate (no buzz, but resonate the frame). This evening when i listening a program with enought bass i notice a sparkle in hte bass pannel. What's happen ? I would be grateful if someone can suggest an assessment of the incident.
Bye
Bye
I have found with the Stages an then the Duetta sig.....the the Board that the Mag an bass ribbon are on can get worpet.....buy ajusting the legs i have re-moved most of the buzz.......this MAY be your prob... try ajusting the legs....
I have also put new foum on the top an bottem bares the hold the bass ribbon down the old foum rottes out...this is ezey an can make the speaker sound better.....goodluck
I have also put new foum on the top an bottem bares the hold the bass ribbon down the old foum rottes out...this is ezey an can make the speaker sound better.....goodluck
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How i can measure the impedance of Apogee's Duetta bass pannel ? I must detach the cable from cross-over ?
And what's the best method for examine if i have an open Loop ? Thank
And what's the best method for examine if i have an open Loop ? Thank
Oh my God, i don't Know what happened ? My Apd bass pannel is ko. The bass pannel of right speaker sparkle in the bottom region near frame. I have checked if there are open loop but all is ok. What is the reason ?
I have resolved problem with my bass panel. I re-check for an open loop in the bass panel and i found an open strip in the region where i have a sparkle. I close the loop open with alluminio for kitchen and scotch. Now the panel is ok. This solution can applied to resolve open that are under the frame.
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OMG, you just took 500 bucks of food off the table, and cheated an installer out of 500 or more in labour 🙂
Anyone familiar with removing, installing the ribbon in the Centaur?
Anything tricky about it?
Cheers
Peter
Anything tricky about it?
Cheers
Peter
Hi,
If you install the new ribbon made by the Graz from Australia, you will get the precise installation procedure. The procedure is a bit complicated if you are not familiar with soldering- max time for soldering contact point on pc board is 4 sec. If you dont do this at once, you should wait about 15 minutes to cool and than continue again. The other thing is prestreching the ribbon with special weight (performed before solder work) etc. I can’t tell you the whole procedure as the same is some kind of Graz’s secret.
Of course, the ribbon is very fragile, so you should take maximum care during installation.
Actually, I made ribbon installation with my best friend on my Apogee Stage, but the 26 inch ribbon is the same as on Centaurus and Centaurus Minor models.
regards,
If you install the new ribbon made by the Graz from Australia, you will get the precise installation procedure. The procedure is a bit complicated if you are not familiar with soldering- max time for soldering contact point on pc board is 4 sec. If you dont do this at once, you should wait about 15 minutes to cool and than continue again. The other thing is prestreching the ribbon with special weight (performed before solder work) etc. I can’t tell you the whole procedure as the same is some kind of Graz’s secret.
Of course, the ribbon is very fragile, so you should take maximum care during installation.
Actually, I made ribbon installation with my best friend on my Apogee Stage, but the 26 inch ribbon is the same as on Centaurus and Centaurus Minor models.
regards,
Hi Damic...
Secret, uh??
I guess I will have to use trial and error, if I decide to remove the ribbons.
There is nothing wrong with the ones I have, but I am considering replacing the 8" woofer enclosure, which is also fine, with a 10" bass driver. A little crazy, maybe? But one has to be to be in the audio diy game.
I have lots of woodwork(speaker building, too) experience and think I will experiment with
A) kef b139 in a 2cu ft enclosure that is very close to same width as the Centaur box
B) the existing Vifa 8" driver in a 2 cu ft enclosure
In a ported box, they perform similarly, except the Vifa has much higher sensitivity.
In fact, I currently have a B139 connected on one channel, and it shows promise.
I am using a minidsp crossing the drivers at 500hz and 12db slope, with a little extra downturn on the woofer to avoid the peak it has at about 1k.
I can accomplish all this without ruining the Centaur enclosure, but I have never dealt with a ribbon of any sort, hence my initial post.
If I progress, the final enclosure will be substantially the same frontal area as the Centaur but about 5" deeper, and I could use the existing grille and front tweeter plate/slotted cover.
Just need to gain the confidence to remove the ribbon.
Thanks
Peter
has the Centaur
Secret, uh??
I guess I will have to use trial and error, if I decide to remove the ribbons.
There is nothing wrong with the ones I have, but I am considering replacing the 8" woofer enclosure, which is also fine, with a 10" bass driver. A little crazy, maybe? But one has to be to be in the audio diy game.
I have lots of woodwork(speaker building, too) experience and think I will experiment with
A) kef b139 in a 2cu ft enclosure that is very close to same width as the Centaur box
B) the existing Vifa 8" driver in a 2 cu ft enclosure
In a ported box, they perform similarly, except the Vifa has much higher sensitivity.
In fact, I currently have a B139 connected on one channel, and it shows promise.
I am using a minidsp crossing the drivers at 500hz and 12db slope, with a little extra downturn on the woofer to avoid the peak it has at about 1k.
I can accomplish all this without ruining the Centaur enclosure, but I have never dealt with a ribbon of any sort, hence my initial post.
If I progress, the final enclosure will be substantially the same frontal area as the Centaur but about 5" deeper, and I could use the existing grille and front tweeter plate/slotted cover.
Just need to gain the confidence to remove the ribbon.
Thanks
Peter
has the Centaur
Hi
I have a pr of the Centaur & minor,s& Stages..........all have the same ribbon....
Have had 5 pr of the Stages.......from 1992 till now........if you have not tuck the crossover board in the back where the post are lose.....just leve it open like a port..
Gives you a good idea of how the port well work...An sound.....an it killer on the minor also.
I have had 2 pr of Duetta Sig also......it vary hard to beat the Stock crossover setups
.....I even had the Krell KBX Crossover setup for Apogees... an in the end went back to Stock pasive the setup Jason Bloom and Leo Spiege came up with at frist.........
Only Apogee Driver i ever KILLed was one of the Mid-ribbons 26".......So if it works ....Dont fix it!
Just my 5cent........
See in the pic....
Take the plate off the ribbon at the bottem frist..... an it well let you get to the + Neg feed wire........take your time.......... take them lose an then the top of the ribbon an it well come right out....i lay mine face down.........becarful.......Great speakers....as for diff woffers i have used two subes in my room for 15years ........with what ever speaker i put in the room.....18'x 25'x 13'
Stock woffers sound great to me....I have put some Vifa MG18SK09....Gave a lot more bass....but i would not say better..........but hay have fun.... an let us know what you find......
Long Live Apogee,s
I have a pr of the Centaur & minor,s& Stages..........all have the same ribbon....
Have had 5 pr of the Stages.......from 1992 till now........if you have not tuck the crossover board in the back where the post are lose.....just leve it open like a port..
Gives you a good idea of how the port well work...An sound.....an it killer on the minor also.
I have had 2 pr of Duetta Sig also......it vary hard to beat the Stock crossover setups
.....I even had the Krell KBX Crossover setup for Apogees... an in the end went back to Stock pasive the setup Jason Bloom and Leo Spiege came up with at frist.........
Only Apogee Driver i ever KILLed was one of the Mid-ribbons 26".......So if it works ....Dont fix it!
Just my 5cent........
See in the pic....
Take the plate off the ribbon at the bottem frist..... an it well let you get to the + Neg feed wire........take your time.......... take them lose an then the top of the ribbon an it well come right out....i lay mine face down.........becarful.......Great speakers....as for diff woffers i have used two subes in my room for 15years ........with what ever speaker i put in the room.....18'x 25'x 13'
Stock woffers sound great to me....I have put some Vifa MG18SK09....Gave a lot more bass....but i would not say better..........but hay have fun.... an let us know what you find......
Long Live Apogee,s
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![bafles-apogee-centaur-ribbon-stands-made-in-usa_MLA-F-3248068099_102012[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/331/331550-70e1393e6aa1e2798d85bc41cd99b7c9.jpg?hash=cOE5Pmqh4n)
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