Way back when I was doing research for my third tube HIFI project, the Darling amp, I remember coming across a Darling car amp by Bob Danielak himself. I looked it up and it's still on the web:
http://www.reocities.com/bobdanielak/caramp.html
Cool stuff!
http://www.reocities.com/bobdanielak/caramp.html
Cool stuff!
I demo'ed one of the USAmps tube hybrid things back in 2009, and remembered thinking it was one of the worst-sounding products I'd ever heard. 12AX7s in the driver stage, IIRC.
My roommate had a Butler amplifier (Butler Audio) that used octals and sounded a lot better, but that particular model had the eccentricity of soldering the pins directly to the PCB instead of using sockets. In a different league sonically, though...
My roommate had a Butler amplifier (Butler Audio) that used octals and sounded a lot better, but that particular model had the eccentricity of soldering the pins directly to the PCB instead of using sockets. In a different league sonically, though...
I have few schematics about tube amps, and we concidered going hybrid too, but the full tube amp is so rare in car so thats the reason. Been looking for clones like McIntosh 275 etc. Power wise looking somewhere between 15-50W/channel A-class. Power consumption is not a problem. I had KT88's in mind.
Old thread but...
My tube car amp! Yes, I use!
Using 6EM5 in PP-Schade output, and input more-or-less-like Quad II, with EF86. Filaments connected in series, and all "6V3 mid-taps" are connected together, to average the filament unbalance between series'ed tubes. Used since nov/2013 at least one hour per day and tubes are like new. Microphonics are non-existent or non-perceptible.
My tube car amp! Yes, I use!
Using 6EM5 in PP-Schade output, and input more-or-less-like Quad II, with EF86. Filaments connected in series, and all "6V3 mid-taps" are connected together, to average the filament unbalance between series'ed tubes. Used since nov/2013 at least one hour per day and tubes are like new. Microphonics are non-existent or non-perceptible.
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Worth considering the Weight of any tube amp in any vehicle--Not for power or fuel cons or weight distribution....
But for sheer Safety in the event of accident...
Earlier, someone mentioned suspending the entire amp by some kind of hammock arrangement, in a hatchback car.
Imagine That especially if fitted above some bass speakers in a hatchback behind you--as your brakes fail (Or some other front end shunt) and you go headlong into a wall at 30MPH--
You'll have a heavy missile heading your way from behind--at 30 miles an hour too....
I wouldn't like to see anyone lose their head via an output transformer or complete amp that was not securely mounted in the vehicle.....
So--Whatever you make--Bolt the bugger down WELL!
But for sheer Safety in the event of accident...
Earlier, someone mentioned suspending the entire amp by some kind of hammock arrangement, in a hatchback car.
Imagine That especially if fitted above some bass speakers in a hatchback behind you--as your brakes fail (Or some other front end shunt) and you go headlong into a wall at 30MPH--
You'll have a heavy missile heading your way from behind--at 30 miles an hour too....
I wouldn't like to see anyone lose their head via an output transformer or complete amp that was not securely mounted in the vehicle.....
So--Whatever you make--Bolt the bugger down WELL!
Hello Fellas- I am very new to this forum, but a long time mobile audio buff. I spent about 20 years in 12v retail, owned a very high end shop. Years ago I was a Milbert amp dealer. I am in the process of building a very high end car system and have been looking for tube amps to run a mid/tweeter active (B&W Matrix 801 mids, B&W Silver Signature tweeters). The Milberts are now about $4,000 ea, out of my budget. I would love to build my own.
If anyone is willing to share their design, I would be VERY grateful. I know nothing about designing an amp, but I know sound. Thanks in advance! Mike
If anyone is willing to share their design, I would be VERY grateful. I know nothing about designing an amp, but I know sound. Thanks in advance! Mike
I bought a Dynaco ST-70 as a highschool graduation present for myself. I used it for a few years until I would up with a pickup truck that would not fit it. I would have to say it is worth it if you drive a bit or just need that sound on your way to work.
I bought 1625s for the outputs. They were mostly used in WW2 planes. They handled car use fine. They matched perfectly when I checked them after about 3 years of use.
If you were bi-amping with a SS subwoofer amp, you could get away with smaller output transformers. An inverter should be rather small if using current designs.
I also wonder if you can tap the battery on a hybrid car theese days. Maybe want a transformer on the inputs for isolation. I know the batteries usually run about 470 volts or so.
Anyway, tubes in a car is well worth it.
I bought 1625s for the outputs. They were mostly used in WW2 planes. They handled car use fine. They matched perfectly when I checked them after about 3 years of use.
If you were bi-amping with a SS subwoofer amp, you could get away with smaller output transformers. An inverter should be rather small if using current designs.
I also wonder if you can tap the battery on a hybrid car theese days. Maybe want a transformer on the inputs for isolation. I know the batteries usually run about 470 volts or so.
Anyway, tubes in a car is well worth it.
If you drive a hybrid car, like a Toyota Prius, you might be able to tap into its big battery to get B+ (it might be too much voltage though, what, 600V?, and the 12V battery for the heaters.
You could hide the tube amp in the trunk, be sure to securely mount it so it doesn't slide around as you take sharp corners or stop suddenly. Don't have exposed tubes, have a cage over them.
You could hide the tube amp in the trunk, be sure to securely mount it so it doesn't slide around as you take sharp corners or stop suddenly. Don't have exposed tubes, have a cage over them.
I just started my build which will be extensive. I am doing a very similar set that a good friend of mine, Earl Zausmer did years ago. His system was by far the most natural sound I have heard in a car home or headphones (I use a pair of Kaiser K10s). He used the Milbert amps, which are a 12v version of the Berning 230, if you are not familiar. I am using the same B&W drivers that he used in his original set up, even the same car and placement. I am looking for tube amps equivalent (or better?)than the Milberts. Victor Sonics claims that his version sounded better in a A/B test against the Milbert.
Milbert Vacuum Tube Car Amplifiers
Milbert Vacuum Tube Car Amplifiers
Mike,
Victor of Victory Sonics is a customer of Paul of PJL Electronics, the designer and maker of the kits and finished boards. You can use the contact form or call Paul direct and he can answer your questions better than I can...there are threads on DIYMobileaudio.com from customers of Victor. One build thread: Victory Sonics 2 Channel chassis build - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum. From the pjlelectronics.com site other threads can be found about the preamp...You can buy the boards only, kits and finished modules from Paul. Hope this helps and good luck on your build whatever it turns out to be...report back.
Victor of Victory Sonics is a customer of Paul of PJL Electronics, the designer and maker of the kits and finished boards. You can use the contact form or call Paul direct and he can answer your questions better than I can...there are threads on DIYMobileaudio.com from customers of Victor. One build thread: Victory Sonics 2 Channel chassis build - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum. From the pjlelectronics.com site other threads can be found about the preamp...You can buy the boards only, kits and finished modules from Paul. Hope this helps and good luck on your build whatever it turns out to be...report back.
I drive some Fiat "Veículo Elétrico" electric prototype (modified Brazilian Palio Weekend) with sodium battery at my workplace, and the nominal voltage is 275V. But this voltage varies too much with motor demands (from 300V to 185V at full throttle). Here have some Renalut Zoe but I don't check the battery voltage yet (I only drive them, another people are responsible to manage them), but is far more than 300V (maybe the 600V?). And the motor inverter makes >200A HF spikes... so the supply needs t be regulated AND super well filtered.
I used in my project an el-cheapo China inverter (to 220V with chopper output). I added an choke to make them DC regulated (LC output rectifier). With the that supply I regulated to 275V and maintain regulated to 11V from battery.
Yes, is a good idea secure them at an selected place/position with plenty of metal - like I made in my car - in case of crashing my amp will only go "downstairs" and hit the sub box
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