....which way it went
A couple years ago I was dropping trees like these.
(This picture is last year when I paid some guys to take the last trees near the garages which I did not want to crush. Same size though; they were pretty uniform.)
-- edit Ah, here's one I'm taking down solo with ladder and ropes.
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Thanks Chris, yes I'm not sure if it's in spec still, calibration can be done either by gpib or flip a internal switch, I believe I have to change the backup battery.
Anyways a nice meter, they also made 8.5 digit back in the day, with their own adc chip.
Spec sheet is promising, low drift, bet it's full of nice parts
Anyways a nice meter, they also made 8.5 digit back in the day, with their own adc chip.
Spec sheet is promising, low drift, bet it's full of nice parts
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A pair of these
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Grayhill/50K60-01-2-03N?qs=ls7QRyWmRk5uJfD8r6iY2A==
They feel clunky-cool.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Grayhill/50K60-01-2-03N?qs=ls7QRyWmRk5uJfD8r6iY2A==
They feel clunky-cool.
Hi amplidude,
Great deal!!! For that money I'd get a pair if they were available. That way you can monitor bias current on two channels (that's what I do often). Anyway, they look like a great, funky, low production numbers DVM. A very good value. Now, how well did they hold their calibration? Right now you don't know if you can trust it long term to stay in cal, or if its out to lunch. I hope it is still in tolerance or close for you.
-Chris
Great deal!!! For that money I'd get a pair if they were available. That way you can monitor bias current on two channels (that's what I do often). Anyway, they look like a great, funky, low production numbers DVM. A very good value. Now, how well did they hold their calibration? Right now you don't know if you can trust it long term to stay in cal, or if its out to lunch. I hope it is still in tolerance or close for you.
-Chris
I just got them!
(They were announced for delivery by tomorrow, mouser was faster than that and i got them by friday evening but didn’t come closer than 3ft to my solder-iron since at least 100 hrs [emoji22] )
I‘m as curious as I‘m confident they’re just as good as an elma 01…
But they’re for the next project, ba-3, so no sq-eval the next few days.
(They were announced for delivery by tomorrow, mouser was faster than that and i got them by friday evening but didn’t come closer than 3ft to my solder-iron since at least 100 hrs [emoji22] )
I‘m as curious as I‘m confident they’re just as good as an elma 01…
But they’re for the next project, ba-3, so no sq-eval the next few days.
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You're right , it's not something I ever seen done this way, the traces are pulled far of from chassis screws, as you said I don't think many units were made.
Anatech I own 5 other meters, none are calibrated, a fluke 867b, a protek 608 , a carlo gavazzi pan5050 a gossen mavo meter, a meterman, I would like at least one calibrated, should I choose the prema 5000? Or one of the newer ones?
Anatech I own 5 other meters, none are calibrated, a fluke 867b, a protek 608 , a carlo gavazzi pan5050 a gossen mavo meter, a meterman, I would like at least one calibrated, should I choose the prema 5000? Or one of the newer ones?
Got a Craftsman jig saw at a yard sale - right around the corner from where I live. Replaced a few machine screw fasteners and it seems to run fine. Still plastic bodied but from back in the day when they actually bothered to put a serial number on it.
Doesnt compare to MMB's bandsaw find - it'd be a lot harder cutting Metronome panel edges straight 'n square with the hand tool.
We were attempting to take down a tree with a long rope connected to the Subaru. Cut it enough with the electric CS and then pull it the rest of the way. These guys from "Bob's tree service" happened along the way, saw what we were doing and basically said "get out of the way". They had it down by the time I got the Subaru parked back in the garage...
Congrats on your anniversary, Cal.
Doesnt compare to MMB's bandsaw find - it'd be a lot harder cutting Metronome panel edges straight 'n square with the hand tool.
We were attempting to take down a tree with a long rope connected to the Subaru. Cut it enough with the electric CS and then pull it the rest of the way. These guys from "Bob's tree service" happened along the way, saw what we were doing and basically said "get out of the way". They had it down by the time I got the Subaru parked back in the garage...
Congrats on your anniversary, Cal.
Hi amplidude,
Well, the Fluke will hold its calibration really well. I bet it is still in tolerance. But I would calibrate your new meter, the prema 5000 6.5 digit one you just got. First do the power supply capacitors in case there is a problem, then send it for calibration. Check it against the Fluke before and after (just for chuckles and grins). That is called a cross-check. Problems in the power supply will cause an unstable reading when they are calibrating it and may cause them to fail it when in fact it is basically okay.
If you can afford it, get the more expensive calibration that gives you all the before and after data readings. Those numbers can then be used to compare to your Fluke and the other meters. They also can tell you about drift later on if you calibrate it again. Getting just a certification really doesn't tell you much, especially if it is right on the edge. Normally the cert with values also has them "guard band" it. That means that if the readings are outside of 80%, they will adjust it to be correct. The equipment used to calibrate your meter would be at least 4x more accurate (4:1 TUR). That's worst case and they have to list it if the accuracy is less than that.
Anyway, calibration with data actually buys you a lot.
-Chris
Sound like a plan?
-Chris
Well, the Fluke will hold its calibration really well. I bet it is still in tolerance. But I would calibrate your new meter, the prema 5000 6.5 digit one you just got. First do the power supply capacitors in case there is a problem, then send it for calibration. Check it against the Fluke before and after (just for chuckles and grins). That is called a cross-check. Problems in the power supply will cause an unstable reading when they are calibrating it and may cause them to fail it when in fact it is basically okay.
If you can afford it, get the more expensive calibration that gives you all the before and after data readings. Those numbers can then be used to compare to your Fluke and the other meters. They also can tell you about drift later on if you calibrate it again. Getting just a certification really doesn't tell you much, especially if it is right on the edge. Normally the cert with values also has them "guard band" it. That means that if the readings are outside of 80%, they will adjust it to be correct. The equipment used to calibrate your meter would be at least 4x more accurate (4:1 TUR). That's worst case and they have to list it if the accuracy is less than that.
Anyway, calibration with data actually buys you a lot.
-Chris
Sound like a plan?
-Chris
