New amp PCB
Actually paid for these a while back, but received them today. Brand new PCBs and layout to replace the very old original boards on my Bedini 25.25 Class A amp. These were burnt due to the continuous heat of 25 years of use. Also some of the tracks were lifting off in places.
An extremely kind young gent did a brilliant new layout for me, with many consultations along the way - all via e-mail and WhatsApp chats. The new PCB is slightly larger than the originals, and will have heatsinks with 5x the radiating area of the original ones. Assembly of boards first, cabinet assembly (including cutting, drilling, tapping of bolt holes etc.) afterwards. Face plate will have to wait until funds are available.
Two new toroidals as well - one per channel. Original E-core was shot. All leads insulations were cracking all over - not safe to use anymore.
Actually paid for these a while back, but received them today. Brand new PCBs and layout to replace the very old original boards on my Bedini 25.25 Class A amp. These were burnt due to the continuous heat of 25 years of use. Also some of the tracks were lifting off in places.
An extremely kind young gent did a brilliant new layout for me, with many consultations along the way - all via e-mail and WhatsApp chats. The new PCB is slightly larger than the originals, and will have heatsinks with 5x the radiating area of the original ones. Assembly of boards first, cabinet assembly (including cutting, drilling, tapping of bolt holes etc.) afterwards. Face plate will have to wait until funds are available.
Two new toroidals as well - one per channel. Original E-core was shot. All leads insulations were cracking all over - not safe to use anymore.
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Yes it is, it's only $13, but whether I could successfully desolder and resolder it I'm doubtful. I only have a standard hakko soldering station no smd stuff. I'm not really sure if the cirrus logic is the problem, it could possibly be with the XMOS chip (and there is no way I'd be able to replace that).
Thanks for the kind words on the photos!
Tony.
Bob, the Europa is one of those things that looks much better nude!
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I never saw one with it's clothes off.
Here is another ugly car from the 80's that never quite made it, partly because much of the trim and interior components, as well as the standard powertrain come out of mid 80's Chrysler FWD cars. I did get a couple wild rides in the prototype of one of these, because.......
I had the short block and the cylinder head of my 2.2L FWD Dodge Charger built in this factory. Even I couldn't break it. 7200 RPM and well over 200 HP from a 1984 Dodge 4 cylinder.....no problem. Transaxles were a different story. I went through 4 of them in the 5 years I raced the car.
Consulier GTP | Retro Review - YouTube
The Consulier GTP weighed in at 2100 pounds. My Charger weighed 2350 with me in it. My Charger could beat an 80's 5.0 Mustang GT. The Consulier was WAY faster primarily because they mounted that FWD Chrysler powertrain in the back, and the car that I rode in had a few upgrades beyond the stock 175 HP.
How the Media Killed this Incredible Supercar - YouTube
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@AnalogJoe, Focusrite replied to my tech support email, and based on the troubleshooting I've done suspect it is the dac chip. They have offered to send me one free of charge! so I will be giving it a try. Time to watch a few more smd desoldering / resoldering videos.
Must say amazing customer service, since I purchased my 2i2 around 7 years ago. They offer lifetime tech support, but going the extra mile to send me a part (for something I caused to fail myself by shorting the phantom power) is certainly above and beyond, customer service
Tony.
Must say amazing customer service, since I purchased my 2i2 around 7 years ago. They offer lifetime tech support, but going the extra mile to send me a part (for something I caused to fail myself by shorting the phantom power) is certainly above and beyond, customer service
Tony.
Hey Jim, it's a retinal imaging system. Takes wide field 200° photos of the retina. Most retinal cameras only get about 45° and images have to be stitched together. The part in the previous photo is in the head behind the front cover- circled in this photo. This "patient" is looking directly into the mirror. Looks to be red & green Class 3B lasers in there, the mirror is ~10" dia.
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Don't really like any of the Loti. I think certain years of the Elan are decent. The Europa is particularly ugly: Chip Foose did a Herculean job customizing one on his show, and IMHO it was still an awkward looking car at the end.
As for myself, bought a pitchfork for $5 the rat-rod derby racer I am making for the kids, and some fender badges for the Vette.
As for myself, bought a pitchfork for $5 the rat-rod derby racer I am making for the kids, and some fender badges for the Vette.
Jim, yes I was just hoping they would say check this or that, or give me some pointers to things that often go wrong. Maybe because I was completely upfront and said what I'd done (shorted the phantom power) and the troubleshooting I'd done so far. But yeah I'm very impressed.
I realized I've got an old dead adsl modem in the garage. I'll pull that out and do some practice on it, desoldering and resoldering smd chips, I'm sure it will have some
Tony.
I realized I've got an old dead adsl modem in the garage. I'll pull that out and do some practice on it, desoldering and resoldering smd chips, I'm sure it will have some
Tony.
@AnalogJoe, Focusrite replied to my tech support email, and based on the troubleshooting I've done suspect it is the dac chip. They have offered to send me one free of charge! so I will be giving it a try. Time to watch a few more smd desoldering / resoldering videos.
Must say amazing customer service, since I purchased my 2i2 around 7 years ago. They offer lifetime tech support, but going the extra mile to send me a part (for something I caused to fail myself by shorting the phantom power) is certainly above and beyond, customer service
Tony.
Glad to hear that Tony!, yeah you should give it a try, you can try adding a lot of solder to the pins to desolder with more ease, I remember some time I ago I saw a special solder for this application, It had a very low melting point so once you applied it, it kept molten for some time and it was really easy to desolder SMD parts.
Keep me posted