Are you replacing the capacitor with the inrush current limiter? If so, that will not work.
Here is an appropriate capacitor:
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail...fZ1lV1wAe2Ib84rgRj6KIqNZpBgNlL3EYC5pLw3a9Jg==
Here is an appropriate capacitor:
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail...fZ1lV1wAe2Ib84rgRj6KIqNZpBgNlL3EYC5pLw3a9Jg==
Thanks. I not sure how that inrush limiter crept in. I'm double checking everything as I'm getting close to turning things on.
Hi, guys. Unfortunatly, F5 PCB is out of stock in DIYaudioStore. Does anyone have gerbers for the F5 PCB? Can you share it with me?
Ok.
I turned on my F5 which has no connection to the channel amps. And it failed the dim bulb test. I'd appreciate any help on where I begin to identify my problem{s}.
I turned on my F5 which has no connection to the channel amps. And it failed the dim bulb test. I'd appreciate any help on where I begin to identify my problem{s}.
How did it fail the test? Bulb on solid? Did it do that with just the PSU and no channels attached?
Dim Bulb Test failure
The bulb stayed on and bright [100 watt]. I have nothing connected to the PSU regarding the channels.
The bulb stayed on and bright [100 watt]. I have nothing connected to the PSU regarding the channels.
inner is working one, outer (in tube) is spare
Mine also has two fuses, and all this time I thought one for hot and one for neutral.😱
Disconnected the PSU boards from the bridges. No light from the bulbs.
So shouldn't the bulb light up and then dim if things are working? With the PSU board disconnected from the bridges, when i turn things on, nothing happens. No light in the bulb at all.
Would appreciate some guidance.
Thanks
That’s actually good.
Reattach the PSU to the diodes but remove all the wires on the output side.
Reattach the PSU to the diodes but remove all the wires on the output side.
Ok. So pull out the wires I've got on the out board side? Just to be clear. Do I leave the SL-60 in place attached to the ground star which is also where the switch is grounded?
inner is working one, outer (in tube) is spare
Yes this was mentioned/clarified on the Whammy thread the other day that you should only has a fuse on the hot side on the incoming AC; not on the neutral (or in addition to the hot side) because most if not all compliance codes now requires this configuration.
The other is a spare you hopefully will not have to use any time soon. 🙂
--Tom
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