Hi folks,Hi fellow ACP+-ers!
I wanted to let anyone interested in getting the ACP+ kit that I've sent a new batch to the store, and they should be programmed and available in about a week. Note that as of this run of kits, we are packaging them with all of the LS JFETs and the Papa Pass-specified Triad PSUs only. The only option now is the PCB set, and maybe a separate case.
Enjoy!
A quick update that the store was delayed in reloading the kits as a few have contacted me offline. They were delivered but delayed in being loaded due to some folks being out sick, but it looks like they are available now. 🙂
--Tom
Hello. Relatively inexperienced builder here. I'm planning to put the ACP+ in an aluminum enclosure (I've got some panel mount RCA jacks and a panel mount power connector for the purpose). I assume it would be wise to connect that enclosure to ground in some way?
Thanks,
J
Thanks,
J
Don't think that's necessary as acp+ ground is connected to other pieces of gear through RCA.
You might create an additional ground loop - bad.
RCA and power can be floating.
Follow the examples with non metal enclosures and you'll be fine.
You might create an additional ground loop - bad.
RCA and power can be floating.
Follow the examples with non metal enclosures and you'll be fine.
The enclosureless ACP+ is connected to a PCB ground plane through the mounting screws.
With a metal enclosure, the PCB ground plane can be omitted and in its place the ACP+ board may be mounted to the enclosure with metal screws/standoffs. The RCA inputs and outputs should be isolated from the enclosure.
With a metal enclosure, the PCB ground plane can be omitted and in its place the ACP+ board may be mounted to the enclosure with metal screws/standoffs. The RCA inputs and outputs should be isolated from the enclosure.
I am about to do the same myself, and I would caution that you pay attention to proper grounding/return path setup if you do take that approach. As you correctly say, the ground plane board Nelson included with the original design works very well but once you remove it you need to correctly incorporate the chassis as one. Take a look at the Whammy thread next door for some very concrete ideas on how to achieve this.The enclosureless ACP+ is connected to a PCB ground plane through the mounting screws.
With a metal enclosure, the PCB ground plane can be omitted and in its place the ACP+ board may be mounted to the enclosure with metal screws/standoffs. The RCA inputs and outputs should be isolated from the enclosure.
As @Ben Mah says, attach the ACP board to the chassis via at least one metal standoff. Where it connects to the metal should be scraped clean of paint to make good contact and let the chassis act as the ground plane. All the RCA jacks should be insulated from the chassis with their plastic washers.
Another store kit build. What can I say? Another musical treat from The Wizard - thank you. Again. And please ignore any low frequency vibrations you may pick up along the lines of ‘It’s 2am!! Are you STILL listening to That Thing?!! (on the plus side, she also thinks it belongs in the MOMA - score one for you, Papa).
Thanks, too, to Tom and all at the Store for their help. Like that chunky 40mm knob, Tom.
Thanks, too, to Tom and all at the Store for their help. Like that chunky 40mm knob, Tom.
I'm never impressed when I see part bigger than footprint on pcb
Just sayin' in general ........ not blaming The Store, nowadays situation with parts is drawing funny solutions
go figure, today I got 300+ pcs of relays, intended for SMD , so I need to straighten each pin on each of them .... and I'm happy to get them at all, without paying more than I paid
edit: Maoooosir prices for Fujitsu relays are simply silly
Just sayin' in general ........ not blaming The Store, nowadays situation with parts is drawing funny solutions
go figure, today I got 300+ pcs of relays, intended for SMD , so I need to straighten each pin on each of them .... and I'm happy to get them at all, without paying more than I paid
edit: Maoooosir prices for Fujitsu relays are simply silly
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Yet another store kit build to share. I made some minor substitutions, mostly because I had the parts- 10k volume pot with a different knob, a power switch without threading, smol footprint resistors for the RN65's. I also had to provide a pair of 1000uF caps to complete the build, the ones I had are too big for their footprint but they're Muse and fine for now. Also using the same wall wart that came with my B1 Korg, and was used for a B1 buffer. I love repurposing.
This thing sounds amazing, with or without headphones, and it has the voltage gain needed to bring out the best in ZM's Redneck DEFiSIT. Thanks so much to Papa for the gift of this design and the unobtainium actives, and to all the volunteers at the diyaudio store who make this kit available at all, much less for the bargain it is.
This thing sounds amazing, with or without headphones, and it has the voltage gain needed to bring out the best in ZM's Redneck DEFiSIT. Thanks so much to Papa for the gift of this design and the unobtainium actives, and to all the volunteers at the diyaudio store who make this kit available at all, much less for the bargain it is.
Both builds look very nice.... The parts layout on the ACP+ PCB looks very pleasing visually. Elegant with a good dose of symmetry comes to mind...
Glad it worked out. Putting these things is a ton of work, but its a means to a super cool end as you are finding listening to the ACP+. I am glad you all are enjoying the new knob. The last run's knobs were a little disappointing, so we decided to go big (literally) this time! 🙂Another store kit build. What can I say? Another musical treat from The Wizard - thank you. Again. And please ignore any low frequency vibrations you may pick up along the lines of ‘It’s 2am!! Are you STILL listening to That Thing?!! (on the plus side, she also thinks it belongs in the MOMA - score one for you, Papa).
Thanks, too, to Tom and all at the Store for their help. Like that chunky 40mm knob, Tom.
View attachment 1091039
--Tom
Indeed. The RN resistors were a challenge to find like the Pani 3W resistors. For one of the R values we ended up using a larger wattage value because thats all that was available, hence a slightly more snug fit.I'm never impressed when I see part bigger than footprint on pcb
Just sayin' in general ........ not blaming The Store, nowadays situation with parts is drawing funny solutions
go figure, today I got 300+ pcs of relays, intended for SMD , so I need to straighten each pin on each of them .... and I'm happy to get them at all, without paying more than I paid
edit: Maoooosir prices for Fujitsu relays are simply silly
While on the topic, if folks have spares of the smaller ones that fit the board better, feel free as long as they meet the minimum spec from Papa's article. Similarly with caps. For those that are unsure, feel free to use higher voltage ratings but the same capacitance - and of course, as long as they fit on the board. 😉 And if anyone is unsure of replacement values, post here or hit me up with a DM and I will be happy to help you figure it out.
Cheers,
--Tom
Yea, as I said earlier that is all I could find in that value in that series. These are really well testing and performing Rs so we wanted to stick with them.Thanks, Cody. The RN65s came with the Store kit, not my choice.
While on this topic, I wanted to address that topic as I've received a few questions on these from folks that recently got the kit. The smaller wattage versions of those Dale/Vishay RN resistors was out of stock everywhere, so we chose to go with the same value with the next bump in wattage. We went with the RNs because these are some of the best measuring (and sounding) Rs out there. So while the fit might be a snug, rest assured that they fit the thru-holes and slots just with a little more persuasion but will work. You may need to linger on them a little longer with your soldering iron as they are in 2W bodies and can take some more heat.Nice, clean build! I like that you went all in on the RN65's. Go big or go home! 🙂
Also I've gotten some questions about the wattage rating choices we've made on these. First, all choices are vetted with Papa, 6L6 and others as well as my personally checking the data sheets to ensure things will work. Secondly, for those experiencing the nervosa after finding R's in the kit with smaller ratings than on Papa's article, please look at the data sheets for these Rs and you will see that they all have a derating factor of which taken into account, you will find that we are within. Also in many of the locations on the board, the circuit will not get close to the stated rating max too. Finding R's the fit the spec, the board AND are available is a challenge these days, which is why we have to not simply copy Nelson's original BOM so please bear with us. 🙂
I've also received some questions about the JFETs included with the kit and how they are matched and packaged. Nelson graciously matches quads of the LSJ74s to be within the parameters discussed in his article, and and then provides them to us for the kits. The J113s are matched to a specific value of 125R for R4, and this is why we supply the 125Rs in the kit to match.
On a related note, someone also recently questioned the choice of anti-static packaging we used. They did not seem familiar with the pink anti-static bags used. Both of these are packaged and shipped using anti-static bags Papa uses and are definitely sufficient for their intended use. You can find the specs for the Uline bags here: https://www.uline.com/Product/AdvSearchResult?keywords=xyzulineas
Cheers!
--Tom
On a related note, someone also recently questioned the choice of anti-static packaging we used. They did not seem familiar with the pink anti-static bags used. Both of these are packaged and shipped using anti-static bags Papa uses and are definitely sufficient for their intended use. You can find the specs for the Uline bags here: https://www.uline.com/Product/AdvSearchResult?keywords=xyzulineas
Cheers!
--Tom
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