Is the click coming from the speakers or from the amp case? My ACA case will click every now and again as it heats up. It gets ignored.
Hi, Yes it’s coming from inside the amp case. That makes sense, tho I continue to hear it well into the listening session. I don’t usually listen loud, so I’m constantly noticing it to the point of annoyance.
You could try to loosen the screws just a little bit so the metal can expand without creating tension in the chassis
Please educate me. Why is the chassis "grounded"? As far as I can tell, the chassis is connected to the negative DC at the power plug (and perhaps other places). Given that the chassis is not connected to AC safety/earth, what purpose does connecting to DC negative serve? Thanks
Looking at the Meanwell specification sheet (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1006/5046/files/GST120A-spec.pdf), "-V connected to AC FG". The DC out is not floating.
So -V from the power supply is connected to AC earth ground. If the chassis is not connected to V-, and V+ accidentally gets into the chassis, you can get shocked if you are in contact with the chassis and earth ground.
Connecting the chassis to -V would short the power supply if V+ accidentally contacts the chassis, sending the supply into overload protection and shutdown.
So -V from the power supply is connected to AC earth ground. If the chassis is not connected to V-, and V+ accidentally gets into the chassis, you can get shocked if you are in contact with the chassis and earth ground.
Connecting the chassis to -V would short the power supply if V+ accidentally contacts the chassis, sending the supply into overload protection and shutdown.
Pair of BNIB ACA V1.8 Silver kits on Swap Meet. Complete with power supply and DC Filters kits.
ACA V1.8 x 2
ACA V1.8 x 2
Hi All, I have two 1.8 version kits on the way. I have a question about monoblock use. My Ref3A DeCapo I speakers support bi-wiring. Has anyone connected their ACA monolocks this way? Each monoblock configured in bridged mode, then connected so one output channel drivs the woofer and one the tweeter. The DeCapos are considered a fairly benign load, and in fact there is no real crossover used in them. The woofer rolls off naturally and the tweeter just has a high pass cap. I suppose there would be little or no power advantage to be gained anyway?
Thanks!
Thanks!
that would be not bridged but mono-for-biamping
yeah, worth trying, all 3 arrangements yu can get:
then leave what you like more
yeah, worth trying, all 3 arrangements yu can get:
- mono-for-biamping mode ( parallel inputs, then one output to bass, second to tweet)
- parallel ...... parallel inputs and parallel outputs, intended for heavier (low R) loads, feeding complete box
then leave what you like more
Yea, i have tried them in twin biamp active mini DSP HD stereo, single passive stereo and twin passive parallel mono.
Twin Paralell mono, is the lush, muscular and musically juicy King setup in both of my setups: The Really Really Big 95db/W/m 4 ohm and medium small standmount 86db/w/m, 4 ohm speakers.
But that is no insurance that it would be the king setup in your stereo.
🤘🙂
Attachments
Thanks guys, I am guessing monoblock parallel inputs and outputs feeding complete box will win the challenge, but I will likely try them all.
I have a Musical Fidelity A1-2008 Class A amp (30wpc) , a Transcendent Sound T8-LN OTL tube amp (25 wpc) and a QUAD 909 Class A/B (140 wpc) to compare with, so that will be interesting!
I have a Musical Fidelity A1-2008 Class A amp (30wpc) , a Transcendent Sound T8-LN OTL tube amp (25 wpc) and a QUAD 909 Class A/B (140 wpc) to compare with, so that will be interesting!
At our house the ACA in parallel does a fantastic job in the way JayDee describes: driving a set of Emotiva T2 speakers. I use a set of Heil AMTs mounted on top of the cabinets in place of the factory tweeter and “time aligned” with the midrange driver in the cabinet. One watt is pretty intense.
I have two ACA kits waiting to be built, but I have never soldered until today. I have a cheapo digital clock kit that I did my first couple of attempts at. They all test to the correct resistance. I did not use Flux, how important is that? Are these clean enough for a good AmpCampAmp build?
Are these solder splashes (so possible shorts)?
Make sure the iron is hot and use a good multicore flux solder (not a lead free one). Do not carry solder on the iron to the joint but apply the iron and solder together on the joint.
Use a toothbrush or similar to gently brush the board to remove any solder and flux bits.
Make sure the iron is hot and use a good multicore flux solder (not a lead free one). Do not carry solder on the iron to the joint but apply the iron and solder together on the joint.
Use a toothbrush or similar to gently brush the board to remove any solder and flux bits.
Thank you. That's exactly the feedback I needed. My eyes weren't going there at all.
I will check that out. And also be more careful when I hit the actual ACA board.
I am preparing to offer a kit of my ACA Redux design and am in the process of gauging interest.
The quick summary is that it's a cost reduced, even easier to build ACA 1.6 with a rather different form factor (ZM called it "damn Fugly!") and the point is to make this hobby even more accessible to new builders.
Read more about it in this thread if you are interested and fill out the form if you think you'd buy.
For everyone's benefit, let's keep any discussion and questions about the ACA Redux and kits to that thread and out of this one.
The quick summary is that it's a cost reduced, even easier to build ACA 1.6 with a rather different form factor (ZM called it "damn Fugly!") and the point is to make this hobby even more accessible to new builders.
Read more about it in this thread if you are interested and fill out the form if you think you'd buy.
For everyone's benefit, let's keep any discussion and questions about the ACA Redux and kits to that thread and out of this one.
Thinking about ordering an ACA to play around with before jumping in to building something more substantial. Due to this eventual upgrade path, I plan to also build a linear power supply. In the meantime, I want to basically order the parts kit only and provide my own PSU and chassis.
Has anyone tried running the ACA with a Meanwell LRS-350-24 SMPS, with or without the DIYAudio filter board?
I have a few older 3D printers laying around I could borrow one or two of these LRS-350-24's from. The specs look pretty close to those of the suggested Meanwell power brick, so I am sure it would work, but I am looking more for any first-hand experience.
Has anyone tried running the ACA with a Meanwell LRS-350-24 SMPS, with or without the DIYAudio filter board?
I have a few older 3D printers laying around I could borrow one or two of these LRS-350-24's from. The specs look pretty close to those of the suggested Meanwell power brick, so I am sure it would work, but I am looking more for any first-hand experience.
It should certainly work but (imo) not a very elegant solution. For one thing it has forced cooling but whether the fan will cut in at low current is an unknown.
You need to compare noise and ripple at the current draw draw the ACA will pull. Is it higher or lower than the recommended PSU.
You need to compare noise and ripple at the current draw draw the ACA will pull. Is it higher or lower than the recommended PSU.