If they are these LEDs Super Bright Blue 5mm LED 3000 mcd 100 Piece Kit with Voltage Dropping Resistors
Then you need the 10kΩ resistors. Do not use the 100Ω or 470Ω ones they are for 5 volt and 12 volt supplies. They might already be on the ACA boards? They are fitted in the R13 positions. See the picture.
You might still find them too bright, order some 39kΩ ones as well.
Then you need the 10kΩ resistors. Do not use the 100Ω or 470Ω ones they are for 5 volt and 12 volt supplies. They might already be on the ACA boards? They are fitted in the R13 positions. See the picture.
You might still find them too bright, order some 39kΩ ones as well.
Attachments
Yes the R13 resistor on the boards is only to protect the LED from 24v. The amp works fine without it.
As Alan said, A 10k R13 resistor is probably installed on your boards already. If so you can just hook the LED to the holes marked LED on the board. If not, add a resistor to the R13 location.
The 10k is probably the minimum to protect the LED, but in the newer kits we spec a resistor around 30k because builders were complaining the LEDs were much too bright, because the newer LEDs keep getting brighter. So you might want to change the resistor if it’s 10k, to about 30k or 40k or add about a 20k to 30k resistor in-line on one of the wires of the pair to each LED. The values aren’t critical at all as long as you have at least 10k and just about any 5mm dia. LED will work.
As Alan said, A 10k R13 resistor is probably installed on your boards already. If so you can just hook the LED to the holes marked LED on the board. If not, add a resistor to the R13 location.
The 10k is probably the minimum to protect the LED, but in the newer kits we spec a resistor around 30k because builders were complaining the LEDs were much too bright, because the newer LEDs keep getting brighter. So you might want to change the resistor if it’s 10k, to about 30k or 40k or add about a 20k to 30k resistor in-line on one of the wires of the pair to each LED. The values aren’t critical at all as long as you have at least 10k and just about any 5mm dia. LED will work.
Last edited:
Yup there is a resister already on r13...so ready to go with hooking up the LEDs?
I will have to wheck and see what my my 3d one has as it has the LED, and it is not bright at all. I also want my Icepower amps to use the same LEDs and be the same brightness...so I will have to get some for them too.
I already did the front panel switch. How do I test it before I finish all the wiring?
I am using a Weller Wes51, and I am a beginner at this. I have not soldered before. Is there anywhere that would list what to set the dial at for various items...so I can avoid mistakes?
Last edited:
NBPK402, the instructions manual is not very helpful, as I can see:
"Always use the lowest temperature that will handle the load that you are soldering. The Weller® electronic control provides maximum power to the heated load even when set to the lowest temperature; therefore, there is no need to use high temperatures to handle heavy soldering loads. By using lower temperatures and properly selecting tip styles, sensitive components will be protected from heat damage".
Since you have a 50W station, maybe aim for the 20 ~ 25W equivalent for most parts. Perhaps even a little less?
I suggest you do as I did and purchase some cheap school project 100Ohm resistors in your local electronics store (those literally made for school projects!) and the cheapest board you can get (usually just holes with no copper at all) and try soldering some resistors, get a feeling how long it takes to melt the solder, how it flows and adheres to the resistor.
I wouldn't ventrue the first heating of the iron into the final project. The risk is too high. At least it was for me. I soldered some resistors, some LEDs... cheap things that go for cents of a dollar each to get a feeling of what to expect.
"Always use the lowest temperature that will handle the load that you are soldering. The Weller® electronic control provides maximum power to the heated load even when set to the lowest temperature; therefore, there is no need to use high temperatures to handle heavy soldering loads. By using lower temperatures and properly selecting tip styles, sensitive components will be protected from heat damage".
Since you have a 50W station, maybe aim for the 20 ~ 25W equivalent for most parts. Perhaps even a little less?
I suggest you do as I did and purchase some cheap school project 100Ohm resistors in your local electronics store (those literally made for school projects!) and the cheapest board you can get (usually just holes with no copper at all) and try soldering some resistors, get a feeling how long it takes to melt the solder, how it flows and adheres to the resistor.
I wouldn't ventrue the first heating of the iron into the final project. The risk is too high. At least it was for me. I soldered some resistors, some LEDs... cheap things that go for cents of a dollar each to get a feeling of what to expect.
I did this for my first soldering practice kit (before building a Bottlehead and ACA kit...never really soldered before other than random wires), and there are a TON of joints to do (about 200...I didn't count, but the 3 'chips' all have them!), and many of them small. Tons of other options:
https://smile.amazon.com/Velleman-K3400-DUAL-ELECTRONIC-DICE/dp/B0006HJRCY/
https://smile.amazon.com/Velleman-K3400-DUAL-ELECTRONIC-DICE/dp/B0006HJRCY/
Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions. I will look for some practice projects. I have flux and I have been usig Cardas silver solder...which I have heard is a little more difficult to solder with too. Maybe I should just use some generic rosin core solder instead? I have some of that that too.
Do you use the same heat level for desoldering too?
Do you use the same heat level for desoldering too?
I am not the right person to offer a good opinion (I am new at this), but I ended up getting some of this and it was like 'cheating' compared to the generic stuff I was using before. VERY easy to work with and consistent, predictable results. Melts and flows well, and easy to reheat, reflow when needed.
https://smile.amazon.com/KESTER-SOLDER-32117-24-6040-0027-Diameter/dp/B00068IJPO/
https://smile.amazon.com/KESTER-SOLDER-32117-24-6040-0027-Diameter/dp/B00068IJPO/
I bet there are people here who can answer for sure!
My comparison was some cheap Chinese 60/40 that just seemed 'inconsistent', either it would melt and flow well, or it would be grumpy and not want to start melting and flowing. As such, I'd either end up over or under doing things. With the Kester, it is totally predictable and I'm at the point where I can picture what I want the solder joint to be like, and get that. For example, on the ACA build I wanted to make sure I got good, solid joints that penetrated the PCB (so the solder reached the other side and totally filled the hole) and I was able to get exactly that on all the joints. Or, on things like the switches where heat is bad, I was able to very quickly get a proper solder connection with minimal (but still adequate) solder and get the soldering iron on and off quick. Obvious some of that is practice, but the consistency and predictability is really helpful.
Where I am still trying to learn is the 'limit' of how much I can heat a component (like a resistor or capacitor) - the balance between a quality joint (meaning getting the area hot) and protecting the component (not cooking it).