Nice, great to hear, Andy! Should make a great little space heater just in time for the coming cooler weather down there in the Southern Hemisphere!
Looking forward to reading some more detailed listening impressions as you spend more time with it.
Looking forward to reading some more detailed listening impressions as you spend more time with it.
Thanks, TT. Yes, I remember that post. 😀 If you make note of the component changes I made ... you should have no issues with a 4R build.
NB: you need to allow lots of space in the case; I wish I had been able to have my SLB boards horizontal. Those 0.1 ohm resistors (R3, R4, R5 & R6) get super hot with the currents flowing in a 4R build ... so if you have your SLBs mounted vertically like I do - the bottom pair of resistors will be loading up heat onto the 15,000uF caps sitting above them. 🙁
Thanks, pf. Not to much of a space heater, I'm hoping ... the CPU coolers are sitting at 40-42 deg C - so only 16-18 degrees above ambient temp. 🙂
Thank you, Hugh,
REW measurements/miniDSP channel gain adjustments this morning ... and then I can start listening seriously, to vinyl. 🙂
Andy
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Andy, I am astonished at the out-of-the-box thinking that put the CPU coolers IN THE BOX!!
(I've had five sitting on a table for quite a while and mostly gave up on them.)
Cheers!,
Scott
(I've had five sitting on a table for quite a while and mostly gave up on them.)
Cheers!,
Scott
Well, thank you Scott - but it seemed very straightforward, to me! 🙂
(After all ... they're inside a computer case.)
Andy
PS: there's a fan positioned beneath each CPU cooler - with a hole cut into the bottom panel.
And the top panel is one of Modushop's fully-slotted covers.
Andy
Thanks, bb. 🙂
Yes, they would've looked good, had I mounted them vertically.
Andy
Well an interesting update from a listening session today, with a couple of people.
Just to refresh your memories, I have an AN 4R on each channel - driving the mid panel & ribbon (3.2 ohms & 3 ohms, respectively) of my 3-way active Maggies.
We played a Proprius LP belonging to one of the guys - whose system I had listened to a couple of weeks ago. At his place, the music was louder than I normally listen to - and on a couple of tracks, I noticed some congestion.
On my system today, I turned it up until he said "that's the right volume" ... and:
a) heard the same congestion, and
b) saw that the red 'clip' LEDs on both AN 4Rs was flickering occasionally!
So if you hear any congestion in your sound ... it could be due to light clipping of the ANs - so pay attention to your red LEDs! 🙂 But this doesn't seem to have a drastic result - merely a thickening of the sound.
And it must've been his tube amps clipping the other day, when we heard the congestion at his place.
Another interesting point is that I had put the (fully-slotted) lids on the cases - as this reduces the noise from the fans. I had thought this might impede the cooling (so had kept the lids off, at first) - but it doesn't; the top sides of the CPU cooler heatsinks were only measuring 40 deg C, today ... 16 deg C above ambient. 🙂
Andy
Just to refresh your memories, I have an AN 4R on each channel - driving the mid panel & ribbon (3.2 ohms & 3 ohms, respectively) of my 3-way active Maggies.
We played a Proprius LP belonging to one of the guys - whose system I had listened to a couple of weeks ago. At his place, the music was louder than I normally listen to - and on a couple of tracks, I noticed some congestion.
On my system today, I turned it up until he said "that's the right volume" ... and:
a) heard the same congestion, and
b) saw that the red 'clip' LEDs on both AN 4Rs was flickering occasionally!
So if you hear any congestion in your sound ... it could be due to light clipping of the ANs - so pay attention to your red LEDs! 🙂 But this doesn't seem to have a drastic result - merely a thickening of the sound.
And it must've been his tube amps clipping the other day, when we heard the congestion at his place.
Another interesting point is that I had put the (fully-slotted) lids on the cases - as this reduces the noise from the fans. I had thought this might impede the cooling (so had kept the lids off, at first) - but it doesn't; the top sides of the CPU cooler heatsinks were only measuring 40 deg C, today ... 16 deg C above ambient. 🙂
Andy
I'm afraid I already know this answer, but I'll ask anyway...
I'm planning to build an amp with dual mono power supply (2x SLBs and 2x Antek AS-3224), an SFP soft-start, and 2x RTR Speaker Protection Gen 2 boards. At first I plan to put Aleph J amp boards in here, but I also plan to swap out amp boards only and use the same chassis and PS for the Alpha Nirvana, other Pass/FW designs, and possibly any other Class A designs that will work with a PS of that size.
My question is, does anyone think all that could fit comfortably in the Deluxe 4U (300mm deep) chassis from the Store? Earlier my plan was to use a 4U 400mm deep chassis for it, but I've recently found out that 4U 400mm isn't an option for the Deluxe chassis with milled/punched rear panel and UMS heatsinks. Apparently I could get it made if I ordered direct from Hifi2000, but it would be very much a custom job, and so quite expensive...and I'm on a bit of a budget.
I am capable of drilling/tapping heatsinks, but I'd prefer not to if possible.
By the way, is the Antek AS-3224 the right voltage and VA to do what I'm describing above? I'm wondering if 300VA per channel is overkill, and if 200VA would work just as well....I always wish antek made 250VA models.
I'm planning to build an amp with dual mono power supply (2x SLBs and 2x Antek AS-3224), an SFP soft-start, and 2x RTR Speaker Protection Gen 2 boards. At first I plan to put Aleph J amp boards in here, but I also plan to swap out amp boards only and use the same chassis and PS for the Alpha Nirvana, other Pass/FW designs, and possibly any other Class A designs that will work with a PS of that size.
My question is, does anyone think all that could fit comfortably in the Deluxe 4U (300mm deep) chassis from the Store? Earlier my plan was to use a 4U 400mm deep chassis for it, but I've recently found out that 4U 400mm isn't an option for the Deluxe chassis with milled/punched rear panel and UMS heatsinks. Apparently I could get it made if I ordered direct from Hifi2000, but it would be very much a custom job, and so quite expensive...and I'm on a bit of a budget.
I am capable of drilling/tapping heatsinks, but I'd prefer not to if possible.
By the way, is the Antek AS-3224 the right voltage and VA to do what I'm describing above? I'm wondering if 300VA per channel is overkill, and if 200VA would work just as well....I always wish antek made 250VA models.
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"Comfortably"? Perhaps in the eye of some builders; sounds crowded to me, but I haven't tried it. You would get extra room going with SMPSs with Mark's soon-to-be-released four-pole SMPS filters. Others have stood the Anteks up on end using an "L" bracket to gain some space. Stacking board on top of one another would also help, as well as using the front and back to mount items. Try using the google search:
site:diyaudio.com Deluxe 4U dual mono (and any other terms)
...to find what others have done.
site:diyaudio.com Deluxe 4U dual mono (and any other terms)
...to find what others have done.
Pinkfloydforever,
I use a 5U/400 w/UMS heatsinks. Perhaps consider that option?
And I have a single 800VA Toroidy with 4 sets of secondaries (22V) on order for precisely the builds you are considering.
Best,
Anand
I use a 5U/400 w/UMS heatsinks. Perhaps consider that option?
And I have a single 800VA Toroidy with 4 sets of secondaries (22V) on order for precisely the builds you are considering.
Best,
Anand
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Hmm I don't really need that much height, but I guess it won't hurt to have it. Thanks Poseidonsvoice
I did see Pico's recent one-time group buy for the 4U 500mm, but I can't figure out a wife-approved-for-the-living-room way to make space for a chassis that's half a meter deep.
Anyway I slice it, it looks like this chassis is going to be way more expensive than I wish it was...hmmm
I did see Pico's recent one-time group buy for the 4U 500mm, but I can't figure out a wife-approved-for-the-living-room way to make space for a chassis that's half a meter deep.
Anyway I slice it, it looks like this chassis is going to be way more expensive than I wish it was...hmmm
pinkfloyd4ever,
For the builds that you are contemplating, I would strongly recommend a 400 mm depth chassis.
I would also second Anand suggestion on the Deluxe 5U x 400 mm chassis if you can't find other options.
Drilling and tapping heat-sinks can be quite a pain. 🙂
For the builds that you are contemplating, I would strongly recommend a 400 mm depth chassis.
I would also second Anand suggestion on the Deluxe 5U x 400 mm chassis if you can't find other options.
Drilling and tapping heat-sinks can be quite a pain. 🙂
Ahhh haha I saw that in the FH9HVX thread. A cool idea, and one that I would probably pursue if I was a single man...but that definitely does not pass the wife-approved-for-the-living-room test 😛
Maybe I'll look into the cost of building my own chassis...😱
pinkfloyd4ever,
I also noticed that you are planning to get transformers with 2 x 24V secondaries; with the SLB, my estimation is that it will give around +/- 27.5V (after voltage loss from the cap mx and transformer voltage sag), which is perfect for the AN amplifier, but might be a little high for the input JFETS used in the Pass designs.
I haven't used the Antek transformers myself, so maybe X can comment.
I also noticed that you are planning to get transformers with 2 x 24V secondaries; with the SLB, my estimation is that it will give around +/- 27.5V (after voltage loss from the cap mx and transformer voltage sag), which is perfect for the AN amplifier, but might be a little high for the input JFETS used in the Pass designs.
I haven't used the Antek transformers myself, so maybe X can comment.
