+1 or even the fully pre-assembled model from B-Quiet linked earlier or an equivalent part. Proper insertion is also critical, and if there's a doubt, I lean toward pre-assembled connectors. It could save some time and potentially add one more level of peace of mind.
Glad you're sticking with it Andy! 🙂
Glad you're sticking with it Andy! 🙂
First, please don’t use Minifit on KK, they won’t fit properly and may come loose during use and cause sparks due to intermittency. Plus they can short since exposed.
This video is helpful to show how to crimp the connectors. It does not talk specifically about connector alignment with the shell during the assembly process.
Assembling a Molex Connector - YouTube
Look at the other end of the Molex Minifit shell and you will notice that the holes have a “D” shape. Now look at the pins end on and you will see they have a “D” shape. The two locking barbs that protrude out of the two sides of the D (not the flat opposite of curved part. Those barbs only insert and lock properly when inserted with this orientation (1 in 4 chance you get it right of doing it randomly). If it is not done right, you will notice a lot of mechanical resistance when inserting it into the shell - like it just doesn’t fit. Or it will pull out of the shell with a slight tug, or it pushes out when you insert the mating end that is soldered on the PCB.
On the Molex KK, there is only 1 barb, and it needs to align with the “window” on the shell. So I am not even sure how a Minifit 2 barb connector can go in there. That was an error of omission that the KK crimp terminals were not on the original BOM. It’s one of those things that I (and JPS64 and Vunce) have literally hundreds on hand (like air/water/solder) and we often forget to include it.
It is part number 08550102 and you should get a pack of 100 at least. They are used a lot and very reliable for small signals like audio or smaller power supplies.
I hope that helps.
Sorry to hear about your SSR - it sounds like one of the improperly connectorized KK terminals shorted. Dimly lit green LED means a very low current is passing
and something is damaged. Usually when you see sparks and smell smoke something is burned out.
@rabbitz,
+1
🙂
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That's a very comprehensive, beautifully crafted amplifier........
Hats off to you, Jan, you are a magician!
Hugh
Hats off to you, Jan, you are a magician!
Hugh
Thanks Hugh,
It's bee a rather long and interesting build process. Just one more little thing to fix in the softstart.
It's bee a rather long and interesting build process. Just one more little thing to fix in the softstart.
The case was purchased on Aliexpress by the client. Gold anodized front and rear panels. Red anodized heatsinks, bottom cover and top cover. I don't happen to have the link to it. A tight fit but I manged to get everything in place.
Case
I like the red heatsinks dif that. I'm not sure about the front and sides, but hey, whatever floats his boat right? 🙂
I like the red heatsinks dif that. I'm not sure about the front and sides, but hey, whatever floats his boat right? 🙂
Hi Adason,
That’s a nice setup you have there. Didn’t know you had so many TT’s. I have a griddle amp and you have what looks like a milk crate amp. 🙂
What is your full range driver? Can’t tell from how it looks - perhaps a dustcap or whizzer cone has been removed?
That’s a nice setup you have there. Didn’t know you had so many TT’s. I have a griddle amp and you have what looks like a milk crate amp. 🙂
What is your full range driver? Can’t tell from how it looks - perhaps a dustcap or whizzer cone has been removed?
Thanks. I prefer simple crossover, when drivers allow for that. It sounds more natural to me. This is even better performing, yet even simpler crossover speaker, just one cap! Check it out:
Audio Pages: MTM with Vifa 13WH-00-08 and AMT tweeter
Audio Pages: MTM with Vifa 13WH-00-08 and AMT tweeter
Ahhh for some reason I was thinking bridge as in wiring up a stereo amp for bridged mono but still couldn’t figure out what you meant by ideal bridges.
I see now, it’s a rectifier bridge design here on DIYA. Had never heard of it till now. Another great circuit to add to my future fully loaded Class A amp build.
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Hmm now I see that xrk's SLB PS already incorporates an active bridge like the Ideal Bridge. Nice 🙂